justjoseph63

Some excellent advice/information from Justin there, John. To elaborate a bit, a few other things you need to take into consideration are: 1. Accuracy- If you are just looking for armor to wear at cons and such this is not so important, but if you are hopefully looking to join the Legion there are lots of details that must be screen accurate (or very close). I am not sure where you got the files, but note that the end product must meet these requirements. Either way we we are here to help! 2. Flexibility- Certain parts of the costume must be able to bend during normal use in order not to crack. This is especially important on the parts like the lower leg (calf) pieces and exterior "ammo" belt as they must flex quite a bit when putting them on. Unless you have a 3D printer that can print large items, pieces like the chest, ab plate etc. will have to be printed in pieces and be joined together. Bondo type products (at least those I am aware of) dry rigid, do not flex and will crack under even the slightest pressure. 3. Sanding- All parts of the exterior must be sanded not just somewhat smooth, but perfectly smooth. Considering there are lots of small ridges/crevices/angles, even with fillers/filling primers you could be looking at weeks or even months of sanding. 4. Painting- Not the biggest of deals as there are a lot of high quality products out there, but if (when) you should have any scratches/cracks these cannot be buffed out in many cases like ABS can and will need re-painting. Please don't think I am trying to dissuade you from continuing with your build, sir. 3D printing is perfect for many items like weapons, accessories and maybe even a helmet, but I'm not so sure it's practical for a complete set of armor that is intended to be worn. As Justin mentioned, getting a kit from one of our vetted armorers will not only save you an insane amount of work, but you will know that they are durable, flexible, and have met the criteria for 501st approval (when assembled correctly, of course)!

Despite extensive searching the only size I have been able to source is the 7mm, which is what I have used for years.

You have brought up a very good point, Daniel. Here is my personal take on this: Finding exact measurements on particular screen used armor parts has always been a challenge. The best references that I know of are the ones from the original set that RS owns, where they used measuring calipers for many parts. Unfortunately one of the only items that do not show a measurement are the ear screws. BUT... I think it's safe to assume that the screws that the prop makers used for the ears were the same type used for the bracket system. Different lengths of course, but the same head diameter. Am I positive on this? Not at all, but it would make sense in my opinion. Below is a photo showing the exact measurement (5mm) of one of the bracket screws on screen used armor. You also have to consider that it may be difficult (if not impossible) for builders (or even armorers) to source the exact hardware sizes used 45 years ago.. especially in the U.S. where we haven't fully embraced the metric system. While the 5mm head diameter would be fine for approval imo, the 6mm or 7mm (6/32) are also acceptable at all levels.

Welcome to the forums, Rob! Always happy to help, so never be shy about asking questions, sir.

Thanks, Bryan.. I couldn't have done it without your awesome kit!

Tandy line 24 snaps like these. I would suggest getting around 50 sets, especially if you are doing the "double-snap" version (highly recommended) as seen above. I really don't suggest using Velcro at all, but if you have to be sure to go with the industrial strength type.

Looks AWESOME, Garrett! As you mentioned, there are a few places where some more glazing putty is needed, but it turned out fantastic! Depending on how detailed you want to get on your next build, one thing I would suggest is to go to Ace hardware (there are several in the Portland area) and pick up a few odds and ends. The cool thing about Ace is that they sell specialty screws (thousands more choices than Lowe's or Home Depot) and you can purchase them individually! I would go for a star-head screw in the side greeb For the muzzle they have the hex-head bolts (hundreds of sizes) and Carriage bolts to attach the folding stock (which you should be receiving tomorrow).

Unless you remove the lenses first I would avoid superglue, Ben. The reason being is that the fumes will adhere to the surface of them and permanently cloud them up. The cracks are so small I honestly think some white Sugru pushed into them with all the excess wiped off may do the trick. If it doesn't look right to you, it can be removed with a dental pick before it dries.

Welcome to the FISD, Andrew! Be sure to ask us if there is anything you need help with.. it's what we do best! Where are you located in Florida? I know folks from several different Squads there that may be able to help on a local level if you require assistance. Best of luck on your white armor journey!

Exactly! You get what you pay for. Cheap snaps just don't last (trust me on that one) and Velcro loses it's connectivity over time. I always use the Tandy line 24 snaps.

Yeah, I've never seen a crack in that area before. I would go with Glen's suggestion of painting it using enamel paint and a very thin artist's brush. It may take a coat or two, but you should be in good shape after that.

RS makes a great kit, but no armor maker is automatically approved. For Basic 501st approval the armor must be built correctly as per the CRL (info. on the TK Commander link here) fit you correctly in scale and size.

Excellent point, Tino, and you are 100% correct! I noticed these details as well during my very first DD resin build many years ago, but after looking at the ones that had been approved they all seemed to be vertical so I went with what was the most common (and still is). It may have something to do with the fact that the originals were glued and they needed a larger contact surface for better adhesion, but now days we attach them to the scope rail with mounts/screws and it's easier to make it more vertical. (Aesthetically I actually prefer that vertical look, but that's just me). Since troopers (and blaster makers) have been doing it this way since way before I joined, and as long as doesn't sit too far back or forward I have no issue passing one at higher levels either way. The power cylinders/mounting plate should ideally (there's that word again) be parallel with the angle at the end of the magazine well and not with the main body. This was just meant to be an overview of the differences in the weapons and a basic reference, but since these items are indeed screen accurate I have added both items to the main thread. Thanks for the input, mein bruder!

I was recently asked "What's the difference between the regular (Sterling) E-11 and the Bapty versions of the blasters used in ANH"? So, having some time on my hands this is what I have come up with. Is it the end-all-be-all of this subject? Not by a long shot, but it should answer the basic questions along with a few odd facts. If anyone has any input or corrections please let me know and I will update this thread as needed. Thanks for looking! The "Blastech Industries" E-11 While no one knows exactly how many were used/seen onscreen, these were real British Sterling Mk4/L2A3 sub-machine guns which actually fired 9 mm blanks from a shortened 34 round magazine. As seen in the 2nd image below this gave the actor(s) the realistic effect of responding to live fire (note the actual smoke coming from the barrel.... and the wince on Han's face). In some scenes the shell casings are seen being ejected. Red "laser" blasts were added in post production by "rotoscoping" each one by hand, frame by frame. Some didn't match up exactly, lol, but it was 1977 and who noticed? I certainly didn't, but it explains our legendary bad aim. To give them a more "futuristic" appearance, the prop masters added all manner of objects: 1. Hengstler counter model 400- Added to the left side behind the magazine, at least 2 versions of this were used in the film. Eagle only- I believe these to be the older versions, made in either brass or a base metal with 890 in the center. Wings are rounded on the outside tops and square on the inside. Eagle with HENGSTLER below it- There are 2 versions of this one. The "wings" logo on the older one have slightly rounded tops and are a tiny bit narrower than the newer version which has squared tops. Both have a smaller 890 in the center as compared with the older models. NOTES: Placement of the counter is ideally mounted slightly above the folding stock rail with the rear lined up above the stock bolt as seen below. As seen in the last 3 images below, the counter is angled and follows the contour of the folding stock. Although cool looking, the coiled wires connected to the counter/power cylinders were not seen in the film and only used on the Bapty version in promotional images so are therefore not "screen accurate". The counters originally had 2 small metal prongs (connector pins) attached to the front. Very few of these made it into any reference images, and were probably knocked off when holstering the weapons. 2. Power cylinders/setup- Unless they were knocked off during filming, these were present on all blasters seen onscreen and were mounted on top of the magazine. If you want to dive into this rabbit hole (and I highly suggest you do, it's actually fascinating reading) about the details I highly recommend checking out Adam's page here. You simply will not find a better reference, and it has everything you could possibly want to know (and more) about these mystery items! Side notes: 1. Some references state that the red wires behind the power cylinders were not seen on-screen, but in at least 2 scenes they were (photos 1-2). The first shows a Stunt TK holding his weapon with it present, and the second is from a photo where Luke is holding it, but I believe this to be the same exact weapon. 2. Ideally the cylinders/mounting plate should be parallel with the end of the magazine well, at an angle to the receiving tube (photos 3-4). 1 2 3 4 T-tracks- While the exact origin/source is unknown, these were 6 of these used to cover the holes in the shroud. They were made of plastic**, the ends bent over and inserted into the openings at the end of each row except for the bottom and row with the bayonet lug. ** Used on both versions, these should not have any metallic color showing when weathering your weapon. Scope- Both the Sterling and the Bapty versions used surplus WW2 tank scopes. While the 1942 M38 type was seen on the majority, 2 other models were employed as well. Note on the M19 model that the original hex nuts were used to attach it to the rail. M38 (1942) M19 (1942) M38 (1943) Scope rail- 3 methods of mounting the rear of the rail can be confirmed. The first (photo 1) shows the rear held in place with a vertical bolt/hex-nut. Photo 2 shows a horizontal version. Photos 3-4 shows how the Bapty's were mounted using a bent end and fastened with what appears to be a star-head screw. 1 2 3 4 The Bapty versions (photo 1) all had a 90 degree bend at the front of the rail while some others (photo 2) had none. Either is fine for all levels of approval. 1 2 Other items- This rectangular item on the top front of scope (photos 1,2 and 3) was seen on both the Sterling and Bapty versions in a few scenes. While it is not known exactly what these were, they appear to be a 14 prong IC socket. These may have been added to all blasters, but since they were glued on few are seen as apparently most were knocked off during filming. There is only one photo I can find of these mystery items being used, and both were located on the left side of the folding stock. The longer one was located toward the front and the smaller one toward the rear above the trigger guard. Many parts like the Hengstler counter and power cylinder set-ups were simply glued to the weapons, and during filming these were knocked off by accident (photos 1-2). Some were seen held on with wire or cable ties (photos 3-4). 1 2 3 4 The Bapty E-11: Because actual weapons are difficult to export between countries during filming (UK, California and Tunisia) approximately 20 custom made replicas were fabricated by the Bapty company (a UK based armorer/prop maker) that could be. Based on the L2A3, these were leased to the production to conserve costs, and since they were not actual firing weapons it saved additional money by not having to have a licensed armorer on set. These looked very similar, used Sterling folding stocks and real scopes/counters, but there were quite a few differences from the Blastech version, including: Sterling grip/trigger 1. No D-ring 2. Solid rear sight 3. Star(?) head screw holds rear scope rail directly to shroud (body) 4, Faux cocking lever 5. Aluminum billet (tube) replacing bolt/spring 6. Wood barrel (not seen) 7. Larger/rounder trigger guard 8. No trigger/mechanism 9. No retaining bolt/screw or emblem 10. Custom made smooth aluminum grip 11. 2 piece body (shroud) 12. Rivet (not seen on all models) 13. Trigger cover plate is different 14. Rivet instead of selector switch Two interesting facts: 1. While Bapty used real Sterling magazines, they cut them in half and used both sides. Some had the original end plates (photo 1), some had flat replicated plates (photo 2) and some just had wooden plugs (photo 3). 2. I have always been told that "There were no Philip's type screws seen in ANH", and having studied literally thousands of reference images I believed that to be true. Until now, when the Bapty cocking lever caught my eye (photo 4). There was another version as well (photo 5). 1 2 3 4 5 IMPORTANT Even though I believe these were seen more than the Sterling version in the film, please note that the Bapty version is not permitted for approval at Centurion level.

The link Glen gave you for Imperial Boots is perfect. They hold up really well and ship quickly once their monthly run is complete. They do tend to run a bit on the small side, though, so I always suggest ordering a full (or at least a half) size larger than what you normally wear.

I use the black Plasti-Dip spray on all my buckets. Besides looking kinda' cool, it helps keep any exposed skin not covered by your neck seal much less noticeable. It smells really bad when you first apply it** but that odor goes away completely in a day or so. One thing I would suggest is to sand down the interior with (rough) 80 grit sandpaper and then clean it thoroughly before applying it, which gives the product a better surface to adhere to. It's easiest to sand/clean the interior before putting it together... trust me. ** I recommend using a particle mask. Fumes and ABS dust from the sanding are not a good thing.

Hi Chris, and welcome to the FISD! Congrats on your purchase, and you are definitely in the right place for all things related to building a spectacular set of armor. AP makes a fantastic kit, and many have been approved at Centurion level (link here for info). While you wait, research will be your best friend. We have a ton of information available here, but you also have an entire Detachment of fine folks who are ready and willing to help. Here are a few suggestions while you wait for Big Brown Box day: 1. Get your supplies in order (link here). 2. Order or buy your soft goods (link here). I would suggest ordering your boots ASAP. Having them on-hand will help when fitting the calves. 3. This list (link here) by Caleb will prove invaluable. 4. Research some of the build threads in this area (link). 5. This thread (link) will show you all the steps you need to join the Legion! It seems like a lot to do, and like I mentioned we have a lot of information here but don't let it intimidate you. We are here every step of the way, so never feel shy about asking questions. It's what we do best!

No rush, Tim! We are here for you, so take your time.

Hi Chris, and thank you for your application for ANH Stunt Expert Infantry! CRL and EIB Application Requirements All required photos are now in and, after review, we are pleased to welcome you to EI! On behalf of the entire DO staff, congratulations!! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. To begin with, I gotta' say that you did one outstanding job on this set of TM armor, brother! (Looks like someone paid attention in class, lol)! Just a couple of small items in this area that may help. We noticed that your bucket is riding a bit high. Not a big deal, but if you have padding in the top I would suggest either removing or reducing it if possible. Not only will it allow the helmet to ride lower, but it will also greatly improve your field of vision. Not all noggins are made the same, or course! Reference images In the first photo above you are looking straight ahead, but in the first two below it appears that you are looking slightly down. I had this same issue and found myself constantly tilting my bucket forward just so I could see above the bottom of the eye openings. A pain in the butt-plate and can be a little dangerous when walking. After removing all the padding in the top it sat much nicer (and closer to my shoulders) and that issue was eliminated. I did keep padding on the sides so the helmet would turn when my head did, though. Reference images This is an issue so small that I almost didn't mention it, but as per the CRL the drop boxes are "...aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt"'. The one on your right side sits a little above the tab. Stretching out the elastic a bit would cure this. Your alignment on the sides is perfect! Another easy fix we are suggesting is that you trim down the top edge(s) of your sniper knee plate. The top part is spot-on, but the bottom could use a bit of Dremel love. Reference images Centurion Requirements In this section we prepare you for Centurion. More photos may be requested in the future that allow us to make better decisions on possible adjustments. If there are any areas of concern they will be discussed here. Because Centurion photos show much more detail than EIB, items to pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all that we can from what is seen, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. Only one small issue here, brother, and it's the easiest fix ever! Ideally there is no gap between the ab/kidney plates, so just tightening up your canvas belt a tiny bit will take care of this. Reference images And that's it! Again, you really did this set of armor proud, Chris, and I'd be proud to troop with you any time. (I'm moving back to Florida soon, so that could very well happen). Next up, Centurion!

Sorry for the delay, Chris. I have a lot of irons in the fire with the move, but I will have it posted up by tomorrow for ya'.

Good news/bad news on that monocular. The lenses that come with it are indeed the correct size, but it looks as if the lenses are colored (there is an option of red or blue). The blue ones may be OK, but you may be able to find a similar monocular online with clear ones. The lens sizes you will need should be 2.5 cm for the large and 12 mm for the small. I have 2 clear plastic discs leftover from a previous build that will fit ( 2mm thick) if you want them.

Sometimes the D.O.s get a little sidetracked with things (like real life and such) but I can assure you we are always here. If we fail to comment or respond on your build thread it doesn't mean that we don't care, it's just that we haven't had the chance. All are welcome (and encouraged) to contact any one of us at any time with questions or concerns, or you can PM us all at one time here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/profile/39088-deployment-officer-team/ and we will be more than happy to address your concerns or queries on a personal basis

This is one of those items that is a suggestion, Ben. In the grand scheme of things it's one of those little details that very, very few would actually notice, but is in line with the majority of the references we have so we routinely mention it for the sake of accuracy. Also, some references show it sitting higher and some show it sitting lower. The important thing is that it is present and adheres to the CRL requirement, so not a deal-breaker for Centurion. Here are a few more references:

NICE JOB, Mark! It's up to you, but you may want to trim down the areas shown in the first pic below. The reason being is that the areas on the top of the forearm can snag on your undersuit or poke into you ("armor bite"). Another thing that (while not a necessity) may be a little more comfortable is to round out the tops of the biceps. Although not really needed but is something that I recommend is to put interior cover strips on the seams if you have spare ABS strips. The most important area to do this is on the front calf connections, as those areas get a lot of wear and tear from being bent out when putting them on and taking them off. Keep those photos rolling in!