justjoseph63

It looks (at least from the photos) that you have almost no return edge as it is, which should allow you to trim them with no issues, so I honestly would not recommend attempting to put a return edge back on them. Just make sure that the cod snaps are connected and you may be good to go.

Makaze was my first Squad and I still have lots of friends down there, so you can bet I'll be down! (Tell Gary sr., Gary jr. and Randy I said hello).

Changed to "Inactive". Please PM me when you are ready to move ahead, sir!

Hi Luca, and thank you for your application for ANH Stunt Expert Infantry! CRL and EIB Application Requirements All required photos are now in and, after review, we are pleased to welcome you to EI! On behalf of the entire DO staff, congratulations!! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. Thanks for your patience!! Overall a really nice build, sir, and a lot of great attention to details! You nailed it for Expert infantry, but since Centurion is the pinnacle we have a few issues to over, but after seeing what an amazing job you did with this armor there's nothing you can't handle! Centurion Requirements In this section we prepare you for Centurion. More photos may be requested in the future that allow us to make better decisions on possible adjustments. If there are any areas of concern they will be discussed here. Because Centurion photos show much more detail than EIB, items to pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all that we can from what is seen, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. Starting with the stripes on the rear traps- the height is spot-on, but they need to be thicker to match the screen references as seen below. If you don't feel comfortable using a paintbrush, you could try a paint pen (link here). Reference images Next up- We noticed a couple of issues with the rear of your left thigh. The right one looks fine and dandy, but the left one has a much smaller gap between the top / posterior plate, and the cover strip is longer. A small amount is no big deal, but it's pretty noticeable and as seen in the reference images the thigh tops should be more or less level and the strips should be the same length. I would not suggest just lowering the left thigh, as the tops of the inside and the level in the front are perfect, but trimming the left one down to match the right would remedy both issues and give you a more symmetrical look. Should take you all of 15-20 minutes at most! Reference images Last up is a the rivet placement. Although not specifically mentioned in the CRL, the top one needs to be closer to the top of the kidney. Although it can't be seen, we suspect the ab rivet needs to be moved as well. This is an issue that we have seen many times in the past, and is honestly not as difficult to fix as it may seem. The rivets can be removed and re-used, and it's just a matter of filling/sanding the holes. I know this seems like a small issue and very few people would ever notice, but for Level 3 it's all about screen accuracy and those Reference images We KNOW that you can take care of these items, brother, and we are at your disposal if you need help. Looking forward to seeing the results when you submit for Centurion!

My pleasure! Always feel free to hit us up if you have any questions!

Regarding the helmet padding Example- On my first build I added pretty thick padding in the top, but it sat pretty high and I found I was constantly tilting my bucket forward just to be able to see. I removed it (which lowered the helmet) and my field of vision was greatly increased. I now only use padding on the sides, which is just snug enough to make sure the helmet turns when I turn my head. The lower your eyes sit the less you can see. Our field of vision is not that great to begin with, so limiting what you can see can be dangerous at times (think small kids running up to you, steps, curbs, etc.

Hi Chris, and thank you for your submission for ANH Stunt Centurion! CRL and CENTURION Application Requirements: All required photos have been submitted, and on behalf of the entire D.O. staff we are pleased to welcome you to the rank of Centurion #513. Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly; In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. Overall a fantastic build, brother. There are a few items that we sincerely hope you will consider upgrading to make this armor really look top-notch! As seen below, both colors on the ab button plates should have the same finish. The gray looks perfect, but the blue has a dull (matte) appearance. Reference image We are suggesting that the TD clips be replaced because of the extra holes. Not the biggest of deals as they cannot be seen, but the originals didn't have them. Reference image Last up is the Hengstler counter. In a perfect world it should set back farther and be angled slightly, almost at the same angle as the folding stock. There are several variations on height, but that would be up to you. Reference images And that's it! Again, a fine job on this TM kit, and if you are ever in Squad 7 territory I look forward to trooping with ya'... now it's time to get out and make the FLG proud as our newest Centurion!

Reminds me of a futuristic Samurai.

One thing I would suggest when adding padding is to attach it with Velcro so that it is removeable. When we troop, we sweat, and those pads will start smelling pretty bad after wearing them for a while. Being able to take them out and hand-wash them will prevent a stinky bucket.

One thing to consider is that during a troop the majority of the time you will be holding your E-11 with your arms bent.. When dry fitting (before gluing) make sure that the return edges on the inside top of the forearm don't dig into you. If the top opening is even the slightest bit snug in that area those edges will cause chafing (we call it "armor bite") after a short time. If it's loose enough you can get away with the extra return edge there, but if you find this out afterward and trim them down the top can be too loose. Some folks can get away with it, some can't.. it's a matter of comfort. Whether you remove that area or not it will not affect approval at any level, but the majority of those seen/used onscreen had no return edges. Either way you do it just make sure the edges are sanded down really smooth.

EXCELLENT job on the ab/kidney gap, and that sniper knee looks much better! I'll be with ya' as quick as I can, brother, so hang in there. By the way, the paint job on that bucket is phenomenal!

MUCH better, sir, and THANKS! Just one more issue... it looks as if you have too many wrinkles in your undersuit. A professional tailor can take care of that for you.. Just kidding, Luca. See? We in the D.O. department DO have a sense of humor (contrary to popular belief). I will be the one doing your review, so hang in there.

I wouldn't worry too much about the damaged one. I certainly wouldn't ping someone for that on an approval at any level ("battle damage"). Alternatively you could remove it and put it on the cod, which is not really noticeable. Here is an excerpt from my rivet tutorial that may help: REMOVING RIVETS Spit type: 1. Using a thin bladed screwdriver, CAREFULLY pry up each side the "legs". POINT SCREWDRIVER AWAY FROM YOU WHEN DOING THIS!!! 2. Using a set of heavy duty pliers, pinch the legs together until they meet 3. Washer will now slide off and rivet can be easily removed 1 2 3

Hi Luca, and THANKS for your awesome submission for E.I.! I can tell that you really put your heart into this build, sir... so many aspects are absolute textbook. But (as you were probably expecting) there are a few items. Nothing that you can't take care of in a few minutes, but we have faith in you! First up is the drop box on the right side. It's a small thing, but the edges need to line up just as they do on your left side. A dab of E-6000 behind the rear of the strap and you are good to go! I know it may be a pain, but we will need an updated photo (right side only, suited up) once you get this done. Not a deal breaker for Level 2, but the vocoder should be symmetrical on both sides. 10 seconds with a paintbrush will do the trick. KUDOS: Fantastic to see that you painted your hand guards! Also wanted to say that you really did an outstanding job on lining up the sniper knee plate with the ridges on the shin. Not the easiest of feats (especially with RS) but you made it work! Does it stick out a bit on the bottom (yellow arrow)? Yep, but I LOVE it! Well done!

I would do one on the top. one near the bottom and one in the center. In my personal opinion, the way Mark @MightyAtom has done his is ideal, and is the way I do mine. Let me explain: 1. Note how there is no gap in the connection. A slight overlap is ok, though. 2. Note that he has used the "double snap" method (I swear by it) for the right side connection. It's a little extra work, but you know that connection will never come undone during a troop. Trust me. I use black 2" elastic for the right side (doubled over when setting the snaps). The reason being is that when suiting up, it's MUCH easier to connect (snap) them. There is very little room, and having elastic instead of Nylon will help. Make sure when installing the rivets on the left side that you follow the diagram below for measurements. Note that the CENTER of the rivet is right at 10 mm from the side, the rivets are directly across from each other and that the tops of the connection are even *second diagram). Last up: Some like to use ABS plates to attach the bottom part of the snaps to armor as seen below. I am not a fan of this unless the surface is perfectly flat. I use Nylon and glue it to the armor using E-6000 and clamps. The reason is that I find Nylon conforms to the curved surface better. I also suggest NOT using CA (super) glue. Some folks have had success with it, but it can (and does) get brittle over time and the connection can fail.

On behalf of the D.O. team, right back atcha'!

Nice progress, sir! If I could make a few suggestions: 1. I would allow a little more room on the outside of the screws. As seen in the reference image, the original mounting holes were too close to the edge and a few pulled through so they had to put them on the outside. Not the best of looks, lol. Some folks glue a small ABS shim on the inside for extra strength (second pic, bottom) but that's up to you. 2. Make sure that the line (shown in blue) is perfectly smooth, especially on the curved area(s). Keep those photos rolling in!

You beat me to it, Mario!

Welcome! Posting as many photos as you can will certainly help. No need to worry about us being "gentle", lol... we do not judge, and are here to help! Keep in mind that we were all in your position at one time, so never be afraid to ask questions (as many as you like) or hit us up for advice. It's what we do best!

Try this one, Scott: http://www.starwarshelmets.com/stormtrooper_helmets_armor_and_costumes.htm

NICE alignment on the ears, sir! I think you could find a better place to store your pen, though.

Those look GREAT, Nick! Can you post up some side views (full helmet)?

The ears... perhaps the most frustrating part of any OT build. BUT, as Daniel mentioned they look fine. Gaps are expected and perfection is not a requirement... it's part of the charm of OT buckets, and as you said they will tighten up when you screw them in. Once you get them attached we can help if you need any adjustments.

The chest armor should hide the logo in the front and the back armor should hide the logo on the rear of the shirt, but you can always turn them inside out! The thigh armor will cover the logo on the pants. Those seem pretty pricey, though. There are other options on Amazon (Australia)- Shirt (no logo)- https://www.amazon.com.au/LAFROI-Baselayer-Performance-Compression-Guard-CLY08C/dp/B09CM42NPN/ref=sr_1_32?crid=2OQA44QP1NMAD&keywords=mens+compression+shirt+black&qid=1647505310&sprefix=mens+compression+shirt+black%2Caps%2C232&sr=8-32 Pants (no logo)- https://www.amazon.com.au/DEVOPS-Compression-Athletic-Leggings-Non-Pocket/dp/B093BQ2RC1/ref=sr_1_10?crid=94G9DD3FQHED&keywords=mens+compression+pants+black&qid=1647505433&sprefix=mens+compression+pants+black%2Caps%2C200&sr=8-10

If I may weigh in on this, it would be as follows: Yes, we have standards for all costumes within our Detachment, especially at higher levels of approval. But, once a Trooper attains those levels we have zero control over what they choose to change or deviate from. For instance, I have been approved at Level 3 for three different sets of armor, but I do not wear rubber gloves for normal trooping. As much as I would like to be 100% screen accurate. in a hot climate it's just not practical for comfort. Do approved Centurions change things? Of course! Let's face it, as much as we would like to see all TKs look the exact same that's just never going to happen. We are a crazy diverse crowd of folks who just want to dress up as shiny white spacemen (and women) and put smiles on faces. Yes, some of us are bigger and/or taller than others, but despite our differences we have the same goal, to get out there and have fun as members of this great organization and promote others to do the same.