justjoseph63

The positioning from the cheek is good ("pencil width") but they are on the wrong sides. The fall should lean forward, so just switch sides and you are good to go!

As for the brow trim ends, I would trim them flat as Dan suggested, Luca. You should have no issues for Basic or even E.I approvals with them being angled, but as he mentioned, for Centurion they will need to be trimmed. While not specifically listed in the CRL, it's one of those items we insist on as 99% of screen references show the ends being flat. If they are a bit short after you do this, not to worry. While most of the ones from ANH extended all the way to the rear of the trap, the ESB ones tend to be shorter. I believe this is because after 3 years of sitting in a warehouse the rubber shrank, as the majority do not extend back as much so we allow for this. ANH ESB

It's hard to tell from the angle of the photo, but those look like the FX-ESB type they sell. The shape is very similar, but on the "Classic" (first image) note the sharp point on the black outline (top left), and the bottom right is not rounded. Not to worry, though! I personally would have no issues passing these.

On the other side of the coin, I've always wondered why the number of tube stripes varied so widely, I wondered at one time if they were symbols of rank, but I'm chalking it down to just one of those "charming" inconsistencies. 11 12 13 15 16

Are those decals from Trooperbay, Luca? They look great, but appear to be different from their "normal" type.

Cracks are not that unusual, and it looks like you caught it before it extended into the outside. I would suggest cutting the ABS shim longer than needed. That way you will have more of a surface for the glue to adhere to and keep it from worsening. I would also recommend sanding down/cleaning the area first before gluing and then clamping it. Some have used CA glue for this type of repair, but I would (pardon the pun) stick with E-6000. The reason being is that it is not a perfectly flat surface, and the glue will fill any voids. It's a pretty clean split, so I honestly don't think you need to add ABS paste as it will probably not be noticeable and may be covered by your TD.

Welcome to the forums, Martin! What part of Sunshine state are you located in? If you haven't done so, I would suggest signing up at the Florida Garrison site. For Basic 501st approval you will need to submit your armor photos to the GML Officer here, and once you get your official TK# you will have access to all the events to attend. Before you submit, you can post up your photos in the Pre approval area here, and we can help make sure that the process goes smoothly. Looking forward to seeing your armor!

You are killing this build, Steve! (And I mean that in a good way). Loving your attention to detail and patience, sir. This is the type of dogged determination that really goes above and beyond, and for that I salute you! If I could weigh in on one thing it would be that (personally) I would not dye the canvas belt. In looking at screen caps, the "original" color was bright white (first photo) which matched the armor. However, during production those things were probably attached hundreds of times by wardrobe assistants who had filthy hands from working on the set. If you looks at Luke's belt (second pic) the overlapping end is a LOT darker. The third pic shows the exact same belt worn by the poor TK that he stole it from.

Mobility (and comfort) are always a good idea! You can round out the "pointed" areas on tops as suggested in the pics below or even more if needed. You certainly don't want those points poking into the back of your legs! As noted in my thread here I am not a fan of return edges in most places, but I always advise that they be removed before final fitting/gluing. The reason being is that if you do need to remove/reduce them after they are finished the opening can be too large. That's not always the case, but if so fixing it is fairly simple. Reference images

Gotta' say this is one of the best builds I have seen in a while, Paul. Lots of great attention to detail.. nice taper on the limbs, perfect gaps between the cod/thigh tops.. WOW! One thing that jumps out is what Luca mentioned, and that is gap at the top of the right thigh. I think that may be due to the fact that it is sitting a lot lower than it should because you haven't done the strapping yet, though. Once it's pulled up to the correct height it should be fine. Can you post up a pic or two of the rear thigh tops you are concerned about? You may want to trim down/round out the tab on the bottom of the posterior plate as well. Those angles can cause chafing after a while when trooping. Ouch. Keep up the fantastic work, sir, and keep those photos coming!

Except for the heat-gun mishap everything looks to be coming along great, Lukas! The taper on the forearms looks fantastic. If I could make a few suggestions they would be: You may just not be at that point yet, but I would trim down the thigh front tops. Those points will stick into you and snag your under-suit, so I recommend shaving off all the return edge. Same with the rear tops. Although some folks like the thickness the return edges give the look of the armor, they are not a requirement for any level of approval and can be removed. Remember, comfort is what you need while trooping, and an hour or more of walking around during a troop with points sticking into you is no fun. Keep the photos and questions rolling in!

Same here. I would definitely try imgur.com It's free, and you can edit/store as many photos as you want to (I have over 11,000 so far).

The piece with the blue paint on it looks like cardboard and was probably for packing and not part of the kit. The piece you need is a sheet of ABS which would be cut down into the cover strips. Below is a photo showing how RS includes this (with a faceplate for size comparison). If I were you, I would get in touch with RS (link here). They have fantastic customer service and would probably be willing to sell you a replacement sheet. One of RS' trademarks is the bumpy cap (just like the originals) so I do believe you have one of their kits.

GREAT to have you here, Andrei! Does the kit come with all the necessary cover strips for the arms and legs? If so, can I ask what the need for the "extra" ABS is for? The reason being is that if your kit does indeed include the strips. unless you need to shim out the ab/kidney connection you should be fine. Many of us install "inner" cover strips on certain parts for added strength (especially inside the front of the calves), but since they are not seen you can use any shade of white. As Glen mentioned, posting up some photos of your kit would be really helpful so that we can give you some more precise info. It would be especially good if you can also include some detailed photos of the entire kit (all parts). This will allow us to determine what you will/will not need. Know that we are here for every step of the way, future Trooper. No question is too small, so always feel free to ask for advice (especially before cutting or gluing) . We LOVE photos, so feel free to post as many as you like. If you need help doing that, I have a thread here that will help. Aștept cu nerăbdare să văd progresul!

Lookin' sharp, sir! While not a requirement for Expert Infantry, it is for Centurion (which I hope you will be aiming for) . Even if you don't want to submit for Level 3, countersinking those ear screws (yes, all 6) is one of those tiny things that not only looks better, but will give your bucket a more screen accurate look. As shown in the pics it's super easy to do, but be VERY careful not to drill out too much. Use a slow speed, and you probably only need one or two rotations with the bit to get the depth you want.

I guess that definitively answers the question posed in this thread.

Yeah, but that would be at least $1400., plus boots, rubber gaskets, neck seal, gloves, etc.

I was considering one of their FO armor kits, but they aren't offering the buckets (yet). If/when they do, it appears they may price themselves out of the market. All the other types of helmets they do start at $650.00 (OUCH) so I can see them running at least that price or more. I know they can be purchased from other vendors, but the color may not match. Still, fantastic to hear that some folks are getting their back-orders!!

For those that are wondering why certain acronyms are underlined, we did that to make it easier for folks to know what they stand for . If you scroll over them the full wording shows up.

Sounds like it's time for me to over-analyze this, lol. As seen in the second image, traditionally for higher levels of approval the pauldron color has closely matched the paint on the armor. Even in the Mandalorian version the colors match pretty close. However, in the videogame image they are not even in the same ballpark. Not a fan of this, to be honest. Videogame Current CRL Mandalorian We have to consider that the game image references are at least 12 years old, and now that we have more solid, updated ones I personally would steer clear of the older version with the mismatched hues of red. Another thing to consider is that in the older version (1st pic) the paint is more of a Burgundy color and lines are not as crisp and clean as the new ones (2nd pic). Some "battle damage" is necessary, but the game paint job is just a mess. The paint details (3rd pic) in the Mandalorian are different as well. As seen in the last image it extends down the front of the thigh cover strip, covers the center of the sniper knee and there is a design on the hand guards. I am really liking the newer version, and considering the updated references I will be suggesting that we closely follow these when it comes time to change the CRL, including the stitching/seam on the pauldron. While we can't dictate a particular paint color, my suggestion will be a "Maroon" red or something close. Same for the pauldron. As for current approvals (Levels 2 and 3) it is my feeling that the pauldron should (closely) match the paint.

A little wobbly, but I would have no issues passing it.

SO, you want to go ESB, huh? AWESOME! If you are considering building a 3-D printed E-11 to go with that costume I can help.. I am also in the middle of an ESB build but due to lack of space (going on 10 months now) I was forced to concentrate on the weapon first. I used Bryan's @trooper96 incredibly accurate ANH E-11 kit and (IMHO) it turned out pretty danged nice. I have a complete tutorial on how I did it here, and just hit me up via PM if you need help or any of the greebs I created. Despite the work, it honestly was a really fun build!

Don't forget that the stripes should sit approximately a pencil width from the top of the cheek.

Welcome to the FISD, Chris! The good thing about getting your armor approved by the Legion is that you will have access to all the events ("troops") in your area. You simply sign up for the ones you want to attend, and you will be in the company of fellow TKs (and usually all sorts of other SW characters). This makes things all the more fun, and you will get to meet like-minded folks and make new friends who share in our hobby. As others have said, I personally don't suggest wearing your armor in public unless you are with a group of others who are doing the same. Comicons are the exception, of course. Plus, when you are on an official troop, you will have the benefit of "handlers". I have more information on that in my thread here which may help. Don't be a stranger, and always feel free to contact us with any questions you may have at any time (no matter how small). We are a very friendly bunch of folks are here to assist you in any way we can!

If you are going for ANH Stunt/Hero those are the wrong ones, Michael. The CRL for those costumes states that they must be "hand painted or have the appearance of hand painted". However, if you are aiming for ESB they are fine, and for ESB they MUST be decals, not hand painted. ESB Decals are fine for ANH for all levels of approval. Link to those can be found here.