justjoseph63

It's not too late to join the ranks of the HWTs, Lukas, (hint hint, lol). Although our armor is not quite as weathered as a Sandie's, we wear pauldrons, back packs and ammo pouches exactly like they do. We also get to carry big freakin' weapons. Here are 2 of mine that I use, depending on the length of the troop (the T-21 is quite heavy).

What was the cost/production time on this, Gary?

Congrats on your kit, Matt! There's nothing quite like opening up a BBB and taking in that "new armor" aroma, lol. GREAT idea starting your own build thread, and know that we are here to help at every step. If I could add to Glen's advice, it would be to ask as many questions as you want to and post up lots of photos. Posting up pics is especially important when you have an issue, and when in doubt, ask before cutting/gluing. Looking forward to following your progress!

Thanks for all the kind words.. . Since we have never done an auction here before we (the Staff) are working on the details/logistics, so it will be a week or so before I can get that up and running.

OK folks, so here it is (at last). I got all the pieces attached and secured and 95% of the weathering complete. Still a few tiny areas I want to tweak, but overall this is it. NOW, before anyone mentions the lack of black paint on many of the actual screws, prongs, spring and such, I left these as-is to show that they had been added. Whoever ends up with this is more than welcome to cover them with some flat black but that will be their choice. As for general weathering I am a minimalist. Yeah, I did add more "brass" on the Hengstler than normal, but I wanted it to pop a little. The lighting was not too great, so here is a better pic of the front. Yes, the word OFF and the arrow on the end of the magazine are a bit wonky. I had to use a Dremel to inscribe it and this was after 5 Mountain Dews. I really gotta' cut down on the caffeine. Also a close-up of the rear power cylinder setup. Front view of the scope/cylinders/Hengstler Front sight close-up OK, so if you remember a few posts back I was concerned that since I wanted to use a real wire spring that the inside circumference of the rear of the shroud was too tight. I was determined not to let this beat me, so I ended up going with a hole saw bit (Pic 1). I used an extension bit to get down inside, but there was a lot of the PVC pipe inside in the far end that just shredded, so I used some elongated needle nose pliers to get out the bits and it worked a charm. HOWEVER, the inside walls were... well let's just say chewed up badly, so I CA glued sandpaper to the hole bit and went to town on it. It worked. Not perfectly smooth inside, but very close and not noticeable. Took me about 3 hours. Here is the end result, and I'm pretty pleased. End cap Hengstler** Grip **As I mentioned earlier, I used my leftover curved Lexan lens from an old build. Note: The lens appears to be fogged under the 0 and 5, but that is a reflection. And finally the folding stock. I was worried that since I was using a real vintage Sterling one that it wouldn't line up correctly. But, that was unfounded. Bryan's 3D files are so accurate that it fit like a glove with no modifications! And that's it, folks! This build was both challenging and fun, and I hope you enjoyed it as much I enjoyed doing it. It will be going up for auction in the next day or so to raise funds for the JDRF, and I hope it makes money for a great cause. If you would like to see any detail pics that are not shown or have any questions, just ask here in this thread. Last but certainly not least, I would like to give a BIG shout out to Bryan @trooper96 for supplying the files (and some extra pieces) for this incredible weapon, Kevin @kmwilson343 for donating the 3d print (and extras), Brian @Bulldog44 for donating one his incredible scopes, and Andrew @Sly11 for giving me the thumbs up to auction this off here on the FISD. You all truly rock, gentlemen, and my bucket is off to you.

Update: Well, the "hammered" finish didn't come out quite as expected, and is a lot smoother than I anticipated. I have used this product before, but you can overdo it quite fast and get puddling on the item you are painting. Still, I'm happy with the end result. SO on with the show: After gluing on the front sight guard (blue arrows are where the CA glue dried white- this will be painted) I added the tiny metal grub screw on the side. I made a new metal front sight pin from a screw by filing down the end and angling the top just like the authentic one. I forgot to take a pic of it, but the second image (borrowed from Tino) shows what it looks like. Now for the power cylinders- Starting with the correct size screws (10ba from the UK) I first cut off the heads. In looking at about 50+ reference pics, I noted that in most (but not all) cases they were present on the front and back, but that the front ones had a bit more of the bolt sticking out. I added an insanely tiny drop of CA glue (with a needle) to keep the nuts from coming loose, drilled holes in both ends and secured them in. I also added the large metal grub screw on the side of the magazine receiver and the infamous red cloth wire*** in the rear. *** The plate that I made earlier that goes in the side was secured in, but I still have to paint/weather the rear of the bolt to match. I wanted a little more detail on the sides of the rear sight to closer match the original (pic 2) so I cut off the ends of 2 pop rivets, drilled a hole in each side of the sight and glued them in. When disassembling the components of the trigger/grip I snapped off the base of the selector switch. Oops. I drilled out the center and epoxy glued piece of a bolt. It will be secured back in with epoxy putty. My apologies, but due to this it will be stuck in place and not operable. The 3D print lines are filled/sanded, so now I just have to prime and paint it before adding it. Still quite a bit to do, but I will be finishing up all the details today and posting up photos. This afternoon I will do the weathering and will be posting up the auction thread within a day or two. Stay tuned, and if you have been with with me on this journey so far- THANKS!

It looks like you are at the very limit (blue arrows) on how low you should take the mobility cuts on the rear of the calves, so I wouldn't go any further down. You can remove the tops of the cover strips so they don't stick out, but note that the left inside is looking a bit out of alignment with outside, so take this into consideration. Although they are permissible at all levels when done correctly, unless you need them I am not a fan of mobility cuts, but that's just me. If you do need them I would try to make them as shallow as possible.

I could not agree more on Bryan's kit. It truly is incredibly detailed. I am actually building one now to auction off for charity (link here). As I mention in my thread Glen linked to above, those wires on the Hengstler counter were not present in any of the E-11s seen onscreen. Looking forward to seeing your build!

I got the magazine holder glued to the shroud. Note that I had put blue tape over that area before the painting and sanded it down so that the glue would have a solid area to adhere to. I sanded down the rear of the magazine holder slightly to help with adhesion. Be sure to clean those areas before gluing! Now for something that may be a little controversial- Does anyone notice something a bit odd in this screen used E-11? (Besides the fact that the scope screws are not painted black). If you noticed that the shroud (and the front part of the folding stock) has a "hammered" metal finish you would be correct. Why, I do not know, but I like that look. So, I have taped off the parts that should not have it and will be using Krylon Hammered metal paint on the rest. I spent about an hour with a roll of painter's tape and a razor blade, but I think I am ready for this. Please, Lord Vader let this turn out good. Otherwise I have to sand this down again and start from scratch.

So sorry to hear that, David! What armorer did you get your kit from? Since the color of the ABS can vary from maker to maker it's probably best to reach out that person so that the bucket and ABS belt match. @gmrhodes13 has a great list of E-11 suppliers (link here). If you want to go the build-it-yourself route Kevin has those available (link here). For the under-suit, I have had good success on Amazon (link here). Hope this helps, and if you need any more questions just ask!

Hi Georgia. Due to the delay in any movement on this submission we are considering it inactive. If you would like to continue, please get in touch with any member of the D.O. staff and we will be happy to get the ball rolling again. Thanks!

Perfect! Thanks for those, and I look forward to seeing the updated photos with the new TD plate!

Hi Galton, and THANKS for your submission for ANH Stunt Expert Infantry! That is an awesome looking set of armor there, sir, but unfortunately there is an issue you need to correct before we can get started. The control panel (raised rectangle) on your TD is similar to those used in ROTJ and will need to be changed to the ANH version. I know your armor is TM and they certainly make an ROTJ version of the TD plate, but I have never seen the particular one you are using. It's kind of odd that the round "washer" at the top is correct for ANH, but not the rectangular area. Yours ROTJ (screen used) TM ROTJ TD plate ANH screen used TM ANH TD plate Also, please post up some detail pics of your bucket as seen below- As soon as you get this sorted please post up some new photos: Suited up (rear shot) and a close up of the new plate so that we can move ahead and get that EI badge under your name. Thanks!!

Forgot to add- There are a few quality canvas belt vendors out there, but I have always ordered mine from Rob at Imperial Issue (link here). Outstanding quality, made to order (custom fit) and great customer service!

Looking great so far, Carter! As for your query " I am however worried that the posterior, kidney, and back will not all touch, which could be a problem. If anyone has some input or advice on that, I’d love to hear it" we understand that with taller troopers that the back and kidney don't always meet in the rear, but the kidney and posterior plate need to (pardon the pun) butt up against each other. Once you get to the fitting stage it will be easier to judge once we see some photos. As Mario mentioned, I sell the flexible hand guards if you need them (link here). Since you are aiming for Centurion I have a thread here which may help. Keep those photos and questions rolling in!

Update time! SO, between building a new workshop and digging 133 holes for my new fence I managed to get some things done on this. The scope- Please note that there is minimal weathering on this part. Some brass showing is good, too much and it just looks awful. To get it like I wanted, I dabbed my finger in the brass colored (Model Master 1782) paint, smeared it around on a piece of paper, rubbed most of it off and then applied it with the same finger. This way it doesn't have any brush marks. Screws installed on the front. I also made/painted a new aluminum scope rail. SIDE NOTE: The front and rear lens holders have threads which hold the lenses in place quite securely. If you are using one of these particular kits and feel the need to add an adhesive do NOT use CA (super) glue. It will permanently fog up the glass lenses. Opt instead for a tiny drop of plain craft glue. Reference images So, at this point some of you may be wondering "What the heck is that strange thing you put on the top of the scope"? This thread (link here) will answer that question. Folding Stock- The folding stock that was included with the kit I received is insanely accurate, but I wanted to kick it up a notch so I will be using a genuine vintage Sterling L2A3 (reconditioned by me) one which (thanks to Bryan's design) fits like a glove and will add a little "heft" to the finished product. Before you ask, yes, those weird things on the side of stock were on the originals. ** I will be doing some final weathering on these (and the stock) before completion. ** I mentioned before that I wasn't too happy with the way the weathering on the Hengstler counter looked, so that was repainted and touched up in the same way that I did the scope with that "worn off" look. The photo makes it look more severe than it actually is, though. I also installed the curved clear Lexan lens over the counter (and yes, I touched up the bottom of that last 7 before doing so, lol). Next up: The power cylinders, magazine mount and the main body!

Hi Karl! Any updates on those new pics?

Gotta' say, Adam, that was one of the finest builds I have seen in a long time. Seeing all that attention to detail was an absolute pleasure, mi amigo. Now that you have set the bar so high, I hope we continue to see more HWTs follow your example.

Hi Mark, and THANKS for your SECOND submission for ANH Stunt EI (and your patience)! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required photos have been submitted, and on behalf of the entire D.O. staff we are pleased to welcome you to the rank of Expert Infantry. Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly; In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor, and please keep in mind that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. You have a great looking set of armor there, Mark, but there is a little fine-tuning you could do to make it look even better! Not sure what happened with your Anovos armor, but I think you will find that AM is sturdier. All that being said, let's get started, brother! Starting with the vocoder, we would like to see the paint on the tops of the arches more symmetrical and the lines crisper. This is really easy to do using a small Flilbert (rounded end) style brush and should take less than 10 minutes. Reference images In looking at the photos below, the gap between the front of the right shoulder bell and the chest plate is pretty wide and should be closer to match the left. Adding some bicep straps would take care of this. In the first pic below, your right shoulder bell is riding higher than the left one. BUT, in the rear shot they are perfectly aligned. I think this is because your right shoulder was raised, so something to consider when you apply for Centurion. It looks like your hand plates are about to pop off, so adding some E-6000 (NOT CA glue) around the edges would keep those rascals in place. The gloves also seem to want to bunch up at the openings (yellow arrow). I have a thread here which will help. Your ab/kidney connections are fine, but there are slight gaps on the sides, so we highly suggest adding some ABS tabs on the sides. There are several versions (2 are below) depending on how adventurous you want to get. Details on this one here. In the first pic below it looks like the belt you are using to support your thighs has slipped considerably and is showing. We suggest raising it (see example) so that the connection sits under your canvas belt. Last up, when you submit your Centurion photos have your photographer check the drop boxes so they don't get caught on your thigh. Centurion Requirements: In this section we prepare you for our highest tier of approval. Because Centurion photos must show more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Level 3 might be seen there and not here and additional photos may be required. We try to point out all that we can from what we are able to clearly see, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. Not too much to see here, sir, but as you know Level 3 is all about those small details.... the "ideal" TK. As seen below, your right bicep protrudes farther down than the left one and they should sit at the same height. This is pretty easy to remedy by making the right shoulder bell to bicep strap a bit shorter. I'm thinking an inch or so. Reference images As per the CRL, the ABS belt should sit at or just above the bottom of the ab button plates. Since it has to be raised, we recommend above as seen in the reference images. Reference images Last up is the simplest fix ever! The CRL for Level 3 states that the "Corners of the .. ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle that meets the outer edge of the cloth belt". I know it's a tiny detail, but that's what Centurion is all about! 10 seconds with some tin snips or Lexan scissors and you are good! Reference image And that's it! Nothing too major, and since you have done this before I have every confidence that you can jump on these issues and that we will be seeing your photos for Centurion soon. If you need any assistance with any of the issues (or have questions) always feel welcome to contact any of us on the D.O. staff. Now it's time to get out there and make the CCG proud with this new armor!!

First post changed.

For those aiming for higher levels of approval with ANH Hero armor, please be aware that the CRL for Expert Infantry has been updated, specifically for the Hovi mic tips. The update is an addition to the present requirements and the new ones are shown below in bold font and underlined: "Correct Aerators/Hovi-MIX tips are present. Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh. The rim of the mic may be weathered, and the inside raised area painted white. Interior sides shall be painted black, mesh can also be painted black". The reason for these updates is for closer screen accuracy, as there is overwhelming evidence that the vast majority of the Hero helmets seen in the film were painted in this way. As noted, the mesh may be painted black but this is not a requirement at any level.

For those aiming for higher levels of approval with ANH Hero armor, please be aware that the CRL for Expert Infantry has been updated, specifically for the Hovi mic tips. The update is an addition to the present requirements and the new ones are shown below in bold font and underlined: "Correct Aerators/Hovi-MIX tips are present. Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh. The rim of the mic may be weathered, and the inside raised area painted white. Interior sides shall be painted black, mesh can also be painted black". The reason for these updates is for better screen accuracy, as there is overwhelming evidence that the vast majority of the Hero helmets seen in the film were painted in this way. As noted, the mesh may be painted black but this is not a requirement at any level.

I'll repeat it, Mark- WOW you are fast! Thanks!

I am working on your review, Mark, but I need one more photo. No need to get suited up! Please post up a detailed pic of the end (either side) of your ABS/canvas belt with it laying on a flat surface. THANKS!!

WOW that was fast! Awesome job, Mark, and I'll get started on your review right away.