justjoseph63

Aside from what Glen has gone over, an issue that may cause a issue is the position of the TD plate. As per the CRL for Basic approval: "The white control panel raised ribbed section faces the rear.." If your GML does ask you to move it, you may want to consider evening out the clip ends. Reference images

Before boiling anything, can you post up a pic or two of the posterior plate and tab area similar to the angle seen below?

To keep the bicep from dropping down and give you a little more room/flexibility at the elbow, I would suggest adding in interior black nylon strap with at least one snap on each side of the shoulder bell and bicep.

If you have the time, I would suggest starting a build thread in this area. That way you can ask all the questions you want to as well as post up photos. We LOVE photos! This thread will help for posting pics on imgur. It's easy once you get the hang of it, and best of all, it's free!

There are quite a few options, Terry. I normally use 5 minute epoxy mixed a tiny bit at a time. I have also used CA (super) glue for certain areas, but I would advise using the gel type, as it doesn't run and any excess can be wiped off before it dries. Some use E-6000, but that has to be clamped for at least 12 hours while it cures. The advantage of E-6000 is that the bond never gets brittle but will still hold fast. Before gluing anything, I would highly suggest smoothing out the printed pieces as much as possible (once everything is attached it is much more difficult). I have a thread here which will help, and these 2 items will come in mighty handy: Here is a link that will be helpful as well: Blaster Reference Be sure to post up photos of any issues you have before gluing (trust me) and if you have any questions, just ask!

You are in the right place, Brent! Tons of info. here, but always feel free to hit us up with any questions.

My thoughts exactly. I ordered some supplies and will see how it turns out... fingers crossed!

A well deserved CONGRATS on your new rank of Centurion, Paul! Now that you have received our highest level of accuracy, I sincerely hope we will continue to see you here often so you can share your knowledge with others in our community who are on their white armor journey. Well done!

If by color bleeding you mean the stains at the base of the fingers it actually looks pretty light, and unless it gets worse I see no issues. Let's face it, most of the time our palms are hidden while holding our weapons. So, to answer your question about whether your gloves will pass at Centurion level: Absolutely! EF makes a quality product, no doubt. My only (small) issue is that the stitching pattern on the palm could be a little closer to screen used. The closest ones to "authentic" I have seen so far are from IB, and I'm not sure if they even still make them. EF Screen used IB

VERY nice, Paul, and GREAT job on those fixes! As Glen mentioned, the UKG decal will have to be removed (at least temporarily) . Since you have to get kitted up for a replacement photo, please take one of the back as well as the white elastic strap on your right shoulder has come undone and needs to be re-tied. Thanks!!

The reason I needed this was for a display I am working on... an exact copy of the TK bucket interior as shown in the first photo. It's an unusual shape (pic 2) which probably hasn't been made in years. I ordered a "replica" from a seller on FB which looked to be fairly close and somewhat thick(ish) (pic 3). This is what I received. It appears to be "molded" in one piece, but is definitely a fan-made sculpt using thin craft (EVA) foam. Although very flexible, the details are way too rough looking (first pic below) and at 5mm thick way too thin (second pic below) to use for this project. Still on the hunt if anyone knows a source.

Welcome to the boards, Terry! Dave makes a GREAT product.. I've been trooping in AM armor for over 7 years and still no splits, cracks or yellowing. Be sure ask if you have any questions (no matter how small) and I look forward to seeing your progress!

There were MANY issues with screen used armor components not all being the same... not just helmets! Some Detachments (like the MEPD for instance) require for higher levels that the armor be modeled after one of the particular Sandies seen in the film(s), down to the scuffs and weathering. However, we at the FISD aim for the "ideal" trooper... think "fresh from the Imperial Training Academy". Whatever customizations people do with their armor after approval is up to them.. we are not the "armor police", lol, but the CRLs are based on the quintessential TK.

Welcome to the FISD, Ryan! AP makes a great kit, so now the fun begins! You may have realized that there will be a lot of research, and my biggest suggestion would be to start a build thread. This way, you can (and should) ask all the questions you want to in one place. It's also important to get familiar with how to post photos here. This is especially helpful when you have an issue so that we can better tailor our responses. Hopefully you will be aiming for higher levels of approval (this is easier to do during your build than after) and always feel free to hit us up for advice.. especially before cutting or gluing. There are links to my tutorials under my avatar at the bottom which will help, but if there is anything you need specifically, just ask! Here are a few other links that will help: ANH Stunt build threads Posting photos Looking forward to seeing your build progress, and

If built correctly you should have no issues with Basic approval. There are a few sets of DA props armor that have made it to higher levels, but my big issue with them is that because of the way this vendor vaccu-forms this particular component (photo 1) the large ab-button plate is designed to sit inside the raised area around it (2nd photo) as opposed to having a rim that sits on top of the raised area as seen on screen used armor.. Will it affect Basic 501st approval? Probably not... that depends on your GML, but it will need to be fixed or replaced by another vendor for higher levels. DA props Reference images We have seen this issue corrected by adding a solid back plate and using ABS paste** around the edge.. then sanding/polishing it. ** Just make sure that the plate and the ABS paste is made from the scraps from the original kit, as colors can be different. Back plate added and ABS paste applied. End product!

Way to go Steve, and welcome to the ranks! You have set the bar pretty darned high for 3D printed armor and I hope to see your submission for EI when you get the chance. If I could (yet again) make one small recommendation it would be to grab your Dremel and trim off the ridge on the bottom of the sniper knee. Should take about 5 minutes and would look much better. Reference images R1 CRL photo Now that you have your official TK ID, I would suggest getting Legion Access here on the FISD. Doing this will give you access to a lot of areas on our site that you cannot currently see, and will be needed if when you apply for higher levels. This may take a day or so, but the link can be found here.

The Pugmans were used in ESB. I assume what they are calling a "Hero" blaster was the standard ANH E-11. Here are 2 of my builds that show some of the differences: ANH E-11 ESB E-11

GREAT job on that TD fix, Paul!

Auction to raise funds for the Juvenile Diabetes Research Foundation (JDRF) is now underway! Up for grabs is a custom built 3D printed ANH E-11 with lots of bells and whistles. More information, photos and how to bid can be found here. Please be aware that due to postal regulations that it cannot be shipped outside the U.S. Auction ends on Dec. 4th. Thanks for looking, and happy bidding!

Spectacular job on this build, Chris! Just a couple of items if I may: 1. The wrist openings on your forearms are quite a bit larger than they should be. The rear opening could be reduced a bit as well, and the overall look should be more tapered. Your GML may call you out on this, as the CRL states that the costume is "...proportional to the wearer in scale, fit and size". In theory, it should be just large enough to get your hand through. Reference images 2. Although it is a fairly recent addition to the CRL for Basic approval, the requirement for the TD now includes "The white control panel raised rib pad faces the rear". and yours is sitting a bit high. Reference images Otherwise, this is possibly the best Pre Approval submission I have seen to date. DANGED fine work on this, sir, and I see those EI and Centurion badges under you name in the near future!

This is a dynamite looking set of armor, Steve,and although your goal is only Basic approval, with a few upgrades you could be the first trooper with 3D printed armor to reach EI! I can't begin to wonder how much time you spent sanding and filling those pesky print lines, but the end result is truly spectacular, sir. If I could make a few suggestions, the first would be is that I agree with Reese about the calves. It's difficult to tell from the photos how large your calves actually are, but there seems to be quite a bit of room on the sides (photo 2). The ones seen in the film had more of a taper rather than being so large at the top, making them look more like those seen on a Clonetrooper. Reference images Just an FYI, andI'm sure it will not affect approval at Basic, but the width of the hexagon on the sniper knee looks quite a bit wider than those seen onscreen. The designer of the files that this was printed from obviously has a keen eye for detail, but it needs some need tweaking. As seen below the indented line around the TD plate has curved corners, and the raised "O" does not have those little projectiles on the top/bottom and is more of a rounder shape rather than an oblong. The positioning of the "buttons" that face the rear? You NAILED it! Reference image Overall I would give this build a 9.5, Steve. I'm danged gad to see that someone has stepped up to the plate and finally shown us that 3D armor has truly earned it's place. Well done, sir!

Just a quick FYI.. Shawn (CrookKnight) sold all his files and designs for HWT, Sandie, Space packs etc. to Dave at AM a few years ago. Dave is now making all of them. The outside design is pretty straightforward, but the insert tube is open to interpretation. Since no one will ever see it you can take some "artistic license" and have a bit of fun. I used all kinds of odd bits and bobs in mine:

Seventy thousand dollars for armor that isn't even close to Centurion level and a modified Hasbro blaster seen for a few minutes on a TV show. Good God. Someone went into this knowing exactly what they were going to do afterward. "How to become a Stormtrooper for Fun and Profit"

I certainly hope one of those chapters includes submitting this cracking set of armor for Expert Infantry level, Paul! You put your heart and soul into this build... and it shows. Side note: I'm envious as all heck of your E-11!

I need a specific style of gray bucket padding for an upcoming project, but after looking at literally hundreds online I have had no luck finding anything even close. It may be out of production or is made for a specific type of helmet (bicycle, motorcycle, ATV etc.) for all I know, but I thought it couldn't hurt to ask if anyone has any resources. Thanks!