sharkbait

"40 - Super coarse for doing an Alderaan on whatever you are working on," I needed that today, thank you! Filing this away for when I get to this point on my Phasma. Gotta start out so shiny she blinds you! Your illustrations are great, too- very informative. Thank you!

Good job on the ears! I had a hell of a time on those suckers... There's a few minor differences between ESB and ANH, mostly in the helmet, like the teeth, which you've already got down. Decals on the helmet instead of hand painted, and no hand-painted look decals. Snowie hand guards. The holster is on the right with black loops. E-11 is more "stripped down". My original mike tips were speakers, and they attached via a screw through the back of the tip and into the helmet. It's held since 15' and counting, so I'd recommend it. As far as sizing, it's much the same between sizes, just trimming more or less depending on how large/small you need to make it. There's a bunch of build threads with shim tutorials, if you're in need of shims, too. For much of the build, you can reference ANH build threads, because so much is the same, just be careful of the little details.

Wow- very nice job! I was going to say the thicker materials like leather/leather/leather-like tend to hide wrinkles on milder curves, so I'd just pin in as best I could and then go for it. Which appears to be what you did, so there you go!

I don't know many specifics, but I've heard of someone using an automotive quality clear coat to protect signatures on helmets. It'd likely be a lot in the application, and less in the material used.

I believe their bracketing is screen-accurate. I will caution however that that style of brackets are a known weak point- where they attached at a thin point at the return edge of the abs and chest, and has pulled through/broken on several RS troopers I've seen. We've fixed them with ABS paste and adding a Tandy Snap plate so the weight/stress isn't on the brackets, but we didn't bother removing them.

Looks pretty nice, there, trooper! The ammo belt/canvas belt should be directly below the ab buttons- yours is lying on top of the bottom. As to modifying your own posts, there's an "Edit" button at the bottom of your post, and if you just need to continue adding, you can always just reply to the thread.

Tandy Line 24 are the best- just buy the 100 pack straight out and save yourself multiple trips/shipping to the Tandy store. I used rivets I found at a local independent hardware store, as I had a hard time finding them otherwise (at the time whatever member had been selling them was on a break), but justjoseph63 should be able to help you out!

To keep your sniper plate from tucking under your thigh (it's a very common problem, at least from what I've seen), you can wrap up a Dollar Store washcloth in some white duct tape, and tape it into the shin just below the sniper plate. It pushes the shin out just enough to keep it from tucking under the thigh. That's what I did, as well as at least two other TKs in my Squad I'm aware of. Otherwise, basically everything CableGuy said. You're certainly close and on the right track!

I'm a big fan of trimmed kits- having had a trimmed TK and untrimmed ANH Tie and Shadow Scout (latter two still in progress), the work saved with getting trimmed was immense, as was the saving of my hand and arm muscles from using the Lexan scissors and the dremel. Also trimmed kits are great for first timers, because you have less worry about learning how to trim and trimming off too much before you even really get started. Though you do get a significant trial by fire with an untrimmed kit, so food for thought. I second E6000- I love that stuff, discovered it when I built my TK, and I haven't looked back, I use it for all kinds of stuff. I recommend giving it a full 48 hour cure time- it takes more time, but the hold will last. And it still will come apart if you really need it to (carefully, that's how I put a crack in one of my shins). You're already putting a whole lot of time, effort, and money into this project, you might as well make it to really last. E6000 is also very forgiving for beginners- if you screw up you can pull it apart immediately and with some sticky clean up start over.

From personal experience, you don't want the thighs to be too tight, but you also don't want them knocking around too loose. I like mine pulled up higher because it helps the bottoms not dig into the back of my knees. One of our guys stores his trading cards in one of his. As to your butt plate, mine likes to pop out like that too- I've also seen the same on another woman, so I think it might have something to do with the feminine shape. Giving it a little extra length in snap plates should help that, though- just a little bit so it gives it a little give and lets it not bump and overlap onto the kidney.

As a Squad (and now me as Squad Leader) it was decreed that we generally don't do them, same with weddings, etc. There's a case-by-case basis, if one comes in for a kid that's in Make-a-Wish territory, or something to that effect, then we'll look at our schedule and consider it based on the request's specific circumstances. I'm not personally a fan of birthday parties, for reasons listed above, and captive audiences tend not to be the best for us anyway, plus the potential abuse, length (too short or too long), and all sorts of other little details. Our Squad is also crazy busy (40+ events a year), so we have plenty troops to attend and even more than we can handle at times as is, so adding private events to the mix would just be asking for headache and trouble. Now if a member has a family member or friend who they want to grace that family/friend's birthday party or wedding with their armored presence, I don't personally have any issue, so long as everyone knows it's strictly unofficial (we don't wear our colors, primarily). And if it's one of our own's birthday or wedding, we'll do it. (I suited up with a handful of others for a fellow Squad member's wedding and did a photo shoot and interacted with other wedding guests, it was great fun, because it was one of our own and I was a guest at the wedding already.) It also came up that we had offers of charity donations in lieu of payment, and my command team and I ultimately decided a private party charity donation for our appearance was still at its heart a private event, and we wanted to draw a line and stick to it to avoid confusion and muddying the waters, so we don't do that. I had a email run in with a disgruntled bridezilla with that decision.

Congratulations! Welcome aboard, Trooper!

I will await your comparisons! I'm leaning towards TFA, starting shinny, letting it weather naturally, then stopping it when I feel it's right, get the best of both worlds...

If the CRL still isn't finished by the time I've got my kit, my decision is made: I'm not into being the first; I want that CRL to be utterly complete and tell me EXACTLY what I need to do, lol. I'm not confident enough for guess work. But we'll see- I think it's going to be neck and neck, honestly.

I would do a combo- a little abs paste then cap it off with a strip to brace it, attack it form both ends. My shoulder straps are also cracking in the same way (occupational hazard, I'm afraid).

I'm still awaiting my BBB Day (KB Props), but I already have my Thorsson helmet, and started chipping away at it. (I'm also in the middle of like, four other builds that I'm determined to finish before I really start Phasma, so I can devote all my time and energy to her). I decided to do Phasma before TLJ came out, but now I have options- and I'm not sure which way I want to go. Anyone have any thoughts? How different is the TFA to TLJ, really? I've noticed the following: difference in shine, belt boxes, finger armor, and addition of baton. Anything I missed? I'm making that baton regardless, because it's freaking awesome. I like the shinnier, but if I have to fabricate new belt boxes or finger armor... I'm good, but I'm not that good.

Look at those shiny white boots! That won't take long to fix. Not much else to say other than what's been said: belt up to where the snaps are, just below the ab buttons. Pull up the thighs to make a tighter seam between the cod and thighs- you can trim down the top of the backs if needed to still fit and not stab you in the behind. Pulling the thighs up will also help the belt boxes from slipping under them. So glad to see another ESB!

I agree this should be an easy pass for basic! I'd echo making the buttons a little bigger, and tightening the shoulder bells just that tiny bit. Are the ab rivets on the shim tab, or is that just shadows?

Here's a further update on KB Props: He's partnered with another guy, Hal, who is taking over order fulfillment. This is promising as there has been a sizable wait (and lack of communications) previously. ABS is still the most requested as therefore carries the longest wait, but there are other options. Check out KB Prop's Facebook page for more details. Hal was nice to talk to and he's quick to respond.

I'm not sure of whitearmor requirements, but it might be a minimum number of posts before you can post such a thread. I suggest introducing yourself in the Introductions thread- that's a good place to start! Also, I might actually have someone who's interested in an RS Propmasters kit. I'll shoot you a PM. For feminine curves, I would recommend AM 2.0. That's what I have, and it fits my hips perfectly (I'm tall, and not petite)- I'm about a 14/16 women's pants size. Also you can look at the Various Types of Armor and Where to Find Them. That should help you decide what's available and what would most likely work for you.

WHAT?! NOOO!! That is terrible news! Thank you for sharing, however this is useful information. This is going to leave a huge hole in the boot market, which is very unfortunate.

Congratulations! Welcome to the ranks!

I've always loved the original/now Legends Death Troopers. I forgot where I read it, but I recall seeing something along the lines of "use common sense" when trooping a Death Trooper at an event, and I would take that to extend to how much gore/weathering/tearing apart to include. The detonator is listed under required parts, so I'd say it's required and except for the distressing, it's the same basic requirements as a normal TK. You could likely source parts pretty cheaply to replace the FX one. A fruther note about FX armor, which if you have it you probably already know, but just in case: Per the CRL, it states: FX armor may not be used for Level 3 approval. FX helmet is no longer permitted for new approvals But then later under Helmet requirements: Note: The FX helmet is considered deprecated (to be avoided), though is acceptable for Legion requirements. So... as to that, that's a question for someone other than myself. Your GML would likely be the next stop for that one. Bottom line, the Death Trooper CRL is much the same as the TK CRL, just with added weathering/gore/broken pieces.

I have a very similar mike to TKSnake's recommendation- I like it. IF you get too close to another trooper with the same set up you might cross-voices through, due to the signals being the same. Use a good amp- buy a real Akers the first time, not a cheap one or a knock off, you'll save yourself headache and money later (I speak from experience). Also, if you want to add to the voice effect you can use an iComm chatter box. Expensive, but worth it, in my opinion. Akers and iComms can be found here: http://store.voicebooster.com

If you can get a pair in your size (ie, you don't have a popular size, or don't mind waiting a while) I also recommend TKboots.com. They're Centurion-ready. I have a pair and I love them; they've head up to heavy trooping (80 in two years) and are pretty comfortable. I would still add a Dr. Scholl's type insert into any trooping boot- we do a lot of standing. (I have inserts in all my trooping boots, for all costumes).