Absolutely. That is a deliberate change while we develop the TK Information Post - it's still there but first stop is the forums now. At least for a little while
Alas you won't see the results per se - at least not if we do it right! It's all back end stuff but rest assured it will keep your FISD experience rocking!
My brother lives in Montreal! He's not a huge SW fan but I might be able to sweet talk him into getting some good close ups of that mouse droid and ESB lid for us... When does the exhibit close?
Does this mean you simply bent the knee ammo pack by flex and affixed it? I notice the gaps between boxes don't show any signs of using the paint stick bend method. Did you apply heat at all?
Thanks for posting these! Both have pluses and minuses in different areas, but for me the Hyperfirm wins over all. From a distance it just looks more convincing.
This is a great tutorial - especially for making power cylinders. Awesome work on such detailed descriptions and photography.
I wait with baited breath for the next instalment...
The random find is the best! Most everything I make I make out of found parts. I'm a dumpster dive junkie...
Just the other day I found 20 sheets of 3ft by 4ft pristine acrylic sheets (with protective paper intact) in a dumpster!
The Sterling SMG (and therefor the E-11) most definitely has a black trigger - to quote the Rolling Stones - Paint It Black!
EDIT: Cos Locitus beat me to it (albeit without the witty 60's rock references)
That'll teach me for being a smart alec!
It probably isn't a real issue but if you use the hammered black you can have your 'chips' look like regular steel since it was the black paint (mixed with varnish) that created the wrinkle effect on the OG Sterling's. Or if you use both hammered silver and hammered and black you should double up your hammered effect and get a great wrinkle type texture. Then coat that with a normal matt black. I found with my scratch build that somehow the hammered seems to seep a bot through the matt coat and give a really convincing metal effect.
You're going to need to repaint after you drill out the hex screws anyway so you might as well sand down the paint around the ejector port and front vent hole to glue the shields on. Make sure you do sand the paint off though - those are some small surface areas and I wouldn't trust the paint to hold between the glue and the resin...
Hey Dan,
Thanks for pointing this out. The search settings seem to have been reset after the recent upgrade and I didn't notice!
It should be all fixed now - i just did a search for "ap" and irt worked perfectly.
Give it another shot.