ZeroRoom

Of course there was the trooper with the taped up mic tip but that was a hero lid and it was the left tip that was taped... Sticking with the eyes and the stunt teeth I'll take another shot and wonder if you've dared to go sandy and do the Move Along helmet?

Damn! It was the eyes... Back to Jessie's HD screencap gallery for more attempts...

I'll go out on an limb and take a guess here (if I'm wrong don't tell us the right answer - keep the guessing game going!) My guess is the Brian R helmet...

This is getting really exciting! Who knew these things turned up everywhere in ANH - they must have had literally thousands. Maybe that's why they're so hard to find - there's none left!

That blue-grey is a big difference isn't it? Looking really good dude. Well done

Check the for sale threads - it's in there

Wow that really does look good! Nice work. I'm looking to get a CFO lid so I'll have to remember this technique. Thanks for posting it up

Ahhh - exposing screens without a UV lamp is prone to disaster. I would recommend you try a thing called a Riso screen. You can get them made at most local art supply stores. Basically it's like an inkjet printer that uses heat to expose a stencil on a thin mesh coated in plastic. If you provide a laser copy of your artwork they copy it onto the Riso mesh in seconds. This is the machine: http://www.screenprintingshop.com/shop/screen-printing/machines/TCA3-SP Or you could buy one of these miniature home use ones if you were really commited! http://blog.tramdang.com/2010/05/10/a-quickie-on-the-riso-gocco/ Then all you have to do is stretch the stencil onto some sort of frame and go ahead. It will last many uses and produces a result almost as good as a professional screen for a tenth of the cost.

In what way was the screen printing an utter failure? (I have some experience with screen printing - might be able to help)

Wow! Dude - that's seriously great work. Really captures the screen printed textures of the originals. Did you roll the stencils or squeegee them?

Nice work engraving the mag housing with the Sterling logo and model numbers. A great detail!

Am I the moron here? I can't see any spelling error?

Cool - it hasn't got nearly the curvature I thought it did - I'm glad I asked! Of course no I see these pics I'm already spotting things I did wrong or should have corrected Thanks so much for taking those pics Jesse. That's very generous of you - especially considering that, like Joey and Rich said, I should have just bought one of your great casts in the first place!

Actually - does anyone have any decent pics of the from lens of an M-19 to give an idea of the level of curvature?

I am indeed working on an all plastic E-11 build (partly because I have no metal working knowledge and partly because of the laws regarding replica firearms here). I've found plastic pipe with accurate outside diameter and wall thickness: http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=17455 which is much better than 40mm PVC pipe IMHO. I'm using a resin grip cast and a resin scope but the rest will be acrylic, which means I can use plastic weld to keep it extra durable. Thanks to the precision of the laser cutter I've even been able to build a working trigger mechanism that will allow the bolt to be cocked and fired (single shot only). I've been working on it tonight and it's coming together well so I'll keep everyone posted with pics.

I'll have a look at your user settings. It's possible there's something preventing logging in from two places at once, however I will say I've never come across this issue before!

Its called called Simon's Holster because it came attached to Simon's armor! The S in RS props stands for Simon. He's the guy that owns the original set of ANH armor that RS props cast their replicas from.

We really need a *drool* emoticon....

I've actually bought some other stuff from these guys before. Great service and nice folks. Definitely good prices too - I never noticed the flower rivets before though. Great find!

Great build Mike - can't wait to see it painted up. Everyone is clearly voting to go E-11 with this for obvious reasons, but I totally understand your quandary. I only began researching the Sterling in order to build an E-11 too, but I've become quite the Sterling "trainspotter" as a result and have totally fallen in love with the gun as is. I'm definitely going to make me a pure Sterling build so I can have both.

Oh yes you can! http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=16705&view=findpost&p=209422

No - but I can find you a tutorial on how to make one for under a grand: http://www.buildlog.net/cnc_laser/index.php

After having some of my blaster parts laser cut in acrylic I needed to jump on the strip heater to bend them into shape. It's a nifty device with an infinite variety of practical uses when manipulating plastic so I thought I'd share a quick "How To" for anyone unfamiliar with the magic of a strip heater. A strip heater is pretty much a long heating element (similar to the kind you would find in a toaster or electric home heater) that has an adjustable cover made of thick steel. This adjustable cover lets you expose just a "strip" (hence the name) of heat source at your desired width, which allows you heat specific sections of you plastic piece without affecting the rest of it. Unlike a heat gun or an oven you can heat very precise lines and very small areas individually, which allows for bends, sharp turns and shaping in only certain areas of the plastic. Think of taking a flat piece of any thermo plastic and bending it into an L shaped bracket for example. Of course, in my infinite wisdom it didn't occur to me to actually take a picture of the strip heater as I was working the parts, but basically they look like this: And work like this: It's an incredibly simple machine, and although it takes a little practice and care to get used to the plastic your working with, the heating times and the cooling times etc you can do some pretty nifty stuff very easily with this bad boy. So where do we start? First adjust your gap to the width that will suit the sharpness of the bend you are looking for. Obviously the wider the gap, the larger the area of plastic that will become flexible, so a small gap will make sharper turns, while a large gap will make larger softer curves. If necessary place some additional blockers to shorten the strip length wise as well, and place you piece of plastic on the bars, with the area you wish to bend directly above the exposed portion of the element. Here I am doing it with the flat cut out of the folding stock butt template: The length of heating time depends on the material and the thickness of that material - this 3mm acrylic took about 10 minutes to become fully pliable. You will know when it's ready as the plastic in that area stops being smooth and takes on a strange almost wavy appearance, as seen here: Don't worry - it's much easier to see in real life than it is in a photograph. At this point the plastic will take on the consistency of a stiff rubber. Remove the plastic from the heater and simply use your hands to bend the shape you want: The smaller the strip the more the plastic will naturally bend toward the intended crease. If you heat a wider area you must be careful to get the curve exactly where you want it. You have to work quite fast here as the plastic stops being flexible much faster than it seems to cool. (ie; it can still seem very hot to the touch long after it has lost it's flex and gone hard again) If you keep applying pressure too long it's likely you will crack the plastic. Much like working with a heat gun, It also helps to push a little further than your intended shape as there will be a little spring back. Once you've got the position right, hold it until the plastic has no more movement in it to ensure it stays where you want it. This is hard, as at this point the hot plastic will be burning your fingers, so don't wuss out here... The great thing is that once you've done one part, the strip heater will heat the next part while protecting the bit you just worked on from reheating and losing shape. Thus you can do one part at a time. This is my butt (oh ha ha - grow up <_< ) after heating and bending two sides: With a wider strip setting you can heat a bigger portion of plastic and bend softer curves like this: Of course this requires more holding and shaping with your fingers than a simple bend so you are really, really gonna burn your fingers doing this (if anyone says why didn't you wear gloves, it's because I'm really tough ) I also found that the smart thing to do was have a score line in your plastic where you want tight folds. It not only helps line up the piece on the strip heater, but it will bend more naturally where you want it to: (See the state of my hands? I repeat: your fingers will suffer and hate you - ignore them. They don't understand how cool it is to blend plastic to your will...) Now we understand the principle here's a quick series of photos showing it in action to make the arms for the folding stock: Rough test fit of the parts: You'll note the underside of the butt piece is a touch flatter than is accurate. I should have (and will soon) given that a slight curve by placing it underside down on a wider setting on the strip heater. All in all this a great piece of kit. It's much less strenuous than working with metal bending and using plastic allows for much more precision in shape. It would be ideal for making inner drop boxes too, or getting a better fit on your crotch tab. If you don't have access to a strip heater they are actually really quite easy to make (and let's face it: no workshop should be without one). They cost about $300-$500 but there's a great tutorial on how to build one for under $30 here: http://www.mp3car.com/fabrication/111936-how-to-build-a-heater-strip-to-bend-acrylic-for-30-bucks-or-less.html I hope this encourages other to give it a shot - if only because it's so much fun! Zero Over and out

:popcorn:

Had to get up super early today for an international skype call but it gave me a few minutes to add some finishing touches to the scope paint job. Taped of the ends to protect the satin paint from the hammered finish of the middle and used the hollowed out lens end to plonk it on a stick for spraying: This turned out to be a very bad idea, because I kicked the stick and the scope hit the floor, quickly turning from "lightly weathered" to "weathered to *&$#" and I had to start back at the satin black layer all over again. It did however prove my theory correct that the brass undercoat should stay intact if the black chipped off, so there was a small upside. The hammered black was too glossy for an authentic look so once I had achieved the texture I wanted using the hammered I gave it a light over spray of satin again to knock it back. It's starting to look pretty good now: You can just make out the hammered texture in these photos, but I can assure you it's great and really gives a cast metal effect: Now all I have to do is add the resin inside the lens areas. If I just pour it straight in however, I'll end up with a flat lens which won't do at all. So what I need is something with the correct dome curvature to use as a mold to set the resin in - I'm keeping my eyes out around the house, ready to pounce when I find it (and I will find it) But I've still managed to go from this: To this: pretty easily and in relatively short order. If you've got a spare resin M-38 lying around it's well worth doing