kayelbe

Alright here's where I'm at right now: I was able to get it all to work by reading the directions. Version 3 is awesome at adding that random static pop. However, what attracted me to the TKTalkie was the ability to actually change the voice, which is apparently a function of V4. After a little trouble, I was able to get it to connect using the 2.0 app (I never learn--I assumed the baud rate was 9600 in the config file, but it wasn't). But now I can't get any sound from the microphone. I changed the input to "line" while I was in there changing the baud rate. I didn't wire up the microphone input so I can't switch my mic to there to test. Edit: I went ahead and added a mic input since it wasn't too hard to get to those solder points. It works! Not sure why the line-in doesn't work, though...

Well, after triple checking my soldering I remembered the one other thing that I had done between successful and unsuccessful connection attempts: I had added the pre-made profiles from the download section. I went back and only today noticed that they were meant for v4 firmware. Apparently, adding them to the profile folder on the SD card and not upgrading to V4 firmware will confuse the TK-Talkie during the connection process to the app. That is why I was getting the "connected" LED on the BLE, but the app would timeout. Also, when I reported the "3 Beeps", I may have been wrong; there were 3 beeps, but they were a different tone/pitch/octave. There is apparently a 3 beep process during a normal connection. During my experimenting today I was able to hear both and noticed the difference. Again, weirdly the "good" 3 beeps wasn't every time.

Version 3 doesn't have a config.txt file. It has a settings.txt file, which after I checked ver4 it appears to be the same thing. However, there is no baud rate line in the settings file. FWIW, I'm checking my BLE soldering. I agree it has to be here. It worked for a minute when I first put it together, but hasn't since. That sounds more like a broken connection. Unfortunately I'll have to desolder the teensy board to get a better look.

I built a Ver3, and am having issues. Wanting to use a wireless mic with the setup, couldn't get it to work through the mic input. Didn't have the correct BLE module yet, but I soldered up everything else while waiting. I was hoping it was a setting that I couldn't adjust until the BLE was installed. Got the BLE module installed last night, got the peripheral disconnected alarm a million times before I was able to connect through the app (didn't change anything, just kept trying over and over. Once the profile took, it was easy to connect). Still couldn't get the microphone to work, even found the one that came with the Aker1505 and tried that--still doesn't work. Both wired and wireless mics work connected without the TK-Talkie. Did some digging today and found the note that the wireless *should* be connected via line-in. Soldered up a jack to the Line-In on the audio shield... Now, it won't connect through the app. I get either timed out or peripheral disconnected errors. Also, get the three BEEPS. Reading above, someone said that meant it couldn't read the SD card? I don't think that's an issue because the startup.wav file plays just fine. I deleted and reinstalled the app several times, even tried the 2.0 app. Any help would be appreciated! Edit to add Serial Monitor message when attempting to connect via App (get the error message(s) and three beeps): > RX: connect=0d75b398bcacc44e|21398 > BLE Cmd: connect Value: 21398 Uid: 0d75b398bcacc44e > Received access code 21398 > DEVICE ID 0d75b398bcacc44e...Send Access OK {"cmd":"access","data":"1"} I went into serial manager and was able to change input to line in and the microphone now works! If all else fails I guess I will have to manually edit the settings. That tells me the teensy and shield work fine, but I can't connect through the BLE. Weird thing is, I can *connect* just fine (light goes solid), it just doesn't like the connection or something. I tried the app from the manufacturer (DSD Tech), and although I didn't know what to do once connected, it DID connect. Also installed Light Blue--same: I can connect but don't know what to do after that).

That is indeed the exact same as the "Wireless Trooping System". I have both the WTS as well as a couple of the ones you linked above. I have worn them in a TD bucket and inside my scout helmet. I haven't experienced any feedback issues. Both with and without the IComm. I guess it depends on speaker placement.

The helmets are different. Take a look through one of the "ANH/Hero" builds elsewhere on this site.

I have two of them, and they work just fine. I never noticed any feedback unless I bent forward with my chin to my chest (an awkward position for me, anyway). And I've had just about every combination of microphone and amp--that is no different between them. No background hum or hiss that I could hear, and nobody mentioned it to me. You want wireless? This is the best that I've seen, IMHO. Best part is you can have more than one going in a troop and no crossover, which I had with a Memorex.

It all depends on who made your kit. I'm not familiar with yours, but a lot of makers have a base "TD" ab plate with a "TK" button plate to go over it. The 4-button strip to the side *should* be replaced with a strip with 3, larger buttons.

Exact same thing happened with me, only it was Jim who contacted me and suggested the "downgrade". Excellent service!

I had the memorex wireless set up with an Aker/IComm. Hated it. Worked great at home, but if you get two or more of you together it makes a horrible warbling sound that won't quit.

Just did a google search on these... The dimensions on this one are 36.75 x 21.38 x 18.0 inches The dimensions on the Husky box are: 37 in. L x 23 in. W x 23 in. H (typically $60-70) The dimensions of the Stanley box are 37.3 x 22.8 x 23.1 inches (typically $80-90) I saw they were $46 on WalMart's site. I looked again and saw it was 2 for $46. I can't speak for their ruggedness, but that's a good price if they are sturdy enough. I will say that it probably won't fit in the backseat. I had a hard time trying to squeeze my Husky box in the back seat of my Toyota Yaris. It fit in the back okay, but getting it through the door was the hard part.

Unless you have another need for the heat gun (really helpful when building armor), you can get by with a hairdryer or even a lighter/candle. Just don't get too close or hold it still for too long with the open flame. I used to use a cigarette lighter (when I was a smoker) while doing instrument and controls wiring. Works in a pinch when you don't have an outlet nearby for a heat gun.

I put mine just under the jawbone, on the neck glands (?). Up higher than it seems you are (below the Adams apple).

Hey DSG'er! I ordered one earlier this year and got it pretty fast. Not sure how many days, but I remember thinking I expected it to take much longer. Maybe 7-10 days after order? It works amazing! Much better than the wireless I had tried. Apparently, "Q" has a Memorex, because whenever he and I were in the same room, both our setups started making a loud, warbling sound. No feedback issues at all. The only possible issue is moisture. Under a neckseal, in AZ, it gets a little sweaty. I'm thinking of ordering a larger neck seal and putting something between the mic and my neck. Might make it worse, though.

Adam, Do you mean a video like you put up? Or do you want to see how I mounted it? Not sure what you mean.