trooper96

This is really a hack for people who already have a helmet and are working on the next one. If you already have a helmet and are pleased with the way the ears look (even if there is still a gap), your next set of ears can come ridiculously close to perfect! 1. Tear a wide sheet of aluminum foil about square. Fold it several times (for rigidity) until it is a little larger than an ear cover with good margins. 2. Press the foil tightly around the ear cover on the existing helmet. Capture as much of the detail as possible, as this serves to index the position of the foil template on the new ear cover. 3. Take a narrow implement with a straight edge and really press the foil to the edges of the ear cover that mate with the helmet. Be careful not to tear or puncture the foil. The curve at the cheek tube may require a little extra persuasion to conform completely. 4. Press and shape a second time to ensure the foil did not shift. 5. Carefully remove the foil from the helmet and place it over the new ear cover. 6. Trace the trim line. 7. Be conservative and trim close to the outside of the line first. Make small adjustments as needed. 8. Rinse and repeat with the other side. 9. You should have little to no gap with the new set of ears. 10. You're welcome!

While we're waiting for further developments... not related to the project but I just received the proofs for my Legion trading cards!

With the bonding, thickness is a little over 1/8". I like that it retains the shape of the original. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

The trigger guard is a thin part. Perfect in steel but not so much in resin. I am attempting to beef it up by bonding a scrap piece of white armor to it. If that fails, I will form my own guard from 1/8" x 1/2" aluminum. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

I bought a really nice set, but didn't want to mess them up and waste them on this project. I made a backup copy with silicone and resin. I just decided to make enough for this blaster since they will be packed with clay. I'll use the originals if I make an all metal blaster in the future. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Remaining t-tracks setting up... Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Thanks again! Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Thanks, guys! One more question... Do the blue tube stripe decals need to have the white backing, or can the stripes be applied directly to the helmet? Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

I am building a helmet with ESB details and have a question regarding painting the frown. I have seen some that paint the teeth down to the 5th indent and stop there. Others paint through the indent to a sharp corner. Which is more correct? Also, if painting to a sharp corner, is the 5th indent ever skipped like an ANH frown?

Barrel packed with clay, first t-track glued in place. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Interesting... Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

OK, I disassembled the trigger group from the grip and unpacked all the clay I had used to fill it for molding. There are lots of flat plates, pins, springs, and moving parts. I can copy any part I can disassemble , except maybe springs. However, I have serious doubts about creating anything that could be made functional. Just way too complex for my skill level. I do have a plan for a moving trigger. It will mean casting a separate grip frame, grip, trigger group, and trigger. Maybe I will look at casting the grip frame with the main tube. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Yikes! I'll take a look. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Aluminum and plastic parts primered to ensure smooth finish. This actually gives a much better view of what the spring form looks like inside the tube. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Possibly. Moving trigger? Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Should I mold the grip as part of this, or separately? What about the trigger guard?

Almost time to start filling this thing with clay and make a mold. I'll probably add the t-tracks first. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Never mind. It occurred to me that I could use my actual main spring if I could find a way to keep end cap in place and compress it. 11 coils visible. Pitch is approximately 3/8" [9mm] Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

OK, does anyone know either the pitch of the spring coils or the number that should be visible in the cocking handle slot? I read that once somewhere on this forum but don't remember where. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Starting to look to look legit! Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Making a form for the main buffer spring. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

End cap locking ring, stock pivot, and deflectors assembled to receiver tube. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk