I'm Batman

I'm watching this closely getting ideas for my full doopy build. There's no way I can see myself, or anyone (sorry peeps) for that matter matching this!

Poll entered. Hope this includes 'in progress' builds.

Frown cut. Mike tips in Buttons painted. It was hard to purposely NOT be perfect. Trying to make them a little uneven and rushed. I would have normally liked to make a mask up for stuff like this, but that wouldn't have been as accurate. Even these are probably too neat.... Ammo belt curved. Main belt marked. I read somewhere that the belt should be 10mm down and 13m accross or vice versa, but then re-read the CRL's and they say 45degrees. Lucky I didn't cut at my first mark. Oh, and this is my little corner of the garage I do have the whole other side for my shelvng and tools though

Good tip on the boiling water, Germain. Forced the shins into position and taped them up nice and tight Let soak in the kitchen sink in boiling water for about half an hour. Let cool while still taped up. And, presto! Almost perfect. Gave the knee ammo belt the same treatment

Yeah, I've got most of that allowed for already. I guess, I already had the blaster and every tool you could imagine. Borrowed paints from fellow members. Little posts are only $3.50 but still no point buying them for 3 brush strokes or so. But it is the éxtras that certainly add up - fans, icomms, amps, etc..... And that's the good thing with a spreadsheet, is that you can write everything down so you don't forget it. Or add it when you have forgotten and re-think about it. Tim, did your s/s have upper and lower limits for budgeting - ie: $40- for a Doopys upgrade kit, or $250- for a whole new blaster. $40- for Target boots, or $120- for others?

Re: Centurian Boots. I seem to recall reading somewhere that boots had to be slightly scuffed for Centurian, and that very comment was made on one of the most recent Centurian applications, however it's not in the CRL's anymore. Has it changed one way or another?

I'm mainly using my spreadsheet for getting quotes on items. It's handy to have columns of suppliers/prices sitting there for a bit before I actually order. If I wasn't budget conscience I wouldn't do it. I'd hate to see the final figure. Having said that, I'm only around the $1000- mark and I'm nearly done. Where do people get $1500-$2000- from? And Tim, I'm losing count of how many times you say your wife thinks your OCD and you don't. I think that might mean something

Thanks Bobby. I'll just tape it up for fitting. Plan is to cut everything to approx size, then get a Garrison mate to help me with final fitting before I crack out the glue.

I'll try the boiling water method first. Thanks Germain. No boots yet Mike. Better order some, as I'm getting ready to do some pre and final fittings. Just placed an order with Trooperbay for some E6000 (amongst other things). With all the pros and cons, I've decided to use that and then go over it with ca if need be after I've got EIB and maybe Centurian approval.

Ok, next uncertaintity - The closing in of the calves/shins. Can't see other build threads that have had the problem so I'll ask away - When I give myself a 20mm or so front coverstrip, below And allow an approximate similar cut on the rear, there is just no hope of them lining up If I use the elastic and hook method (not velcro) of closing them in, how do I stop them from closing in too far? Glue the front and heat bend them out? The other calf is the same. Yes, I've made sure I hae the correct inner/outer calves.

Ah, the bottom curve, you meant Just watched Trooperbay's video on that!

Looking good Steve. Keep it coming.

Large part of my forearms are right on 10.5. Wrists are about 6.5.

Thanks for everyones input. I'm building a MTK kit. It has ridges on all pieces, front and back, except the thighs - ridges front only. Thinking again, I reckon the biceps are fine, still a bit worried about the forearms, but I'll have to be careful that my hand can still fit through. Whereas the other forearm is probably ok, so might have to look for a compromise to keep them the same. All of the above are trimmed to allow 25mm strips based on one of the threads read. And I haven't got to the legs yet, but I'll take everything on board that's been discussed before trimming.

The answer I was hoping for. Thank you. Perfect answer! Thank you. Hadn't thought about keeping the front and getting rid the ridge from the rear. That will work and look better I think. Cheers.

So I've searched and found a few topics, but none of them really answer my question. Most talk about making thighs/forearms, etc wider, not narrower. This thread http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26168-ne-build-help-with-cover-strips/?hl=%2Bcover+%2Bstrip+%2Bjoining#entry330101 has quite a spirited discussion about where the cover strip shoudl finish in regards to the ridge on the armor. This thread http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/21774-anh-coverstrip-method-for-eibcenturion/?hl=%2Bcover+%2Bstrip+%2Bjoining#entry271109 mentions they should be a particular size, and this thread (oops, look like I didn;t save it) mentions a different size. Below are two quotes from Troopermaster contradicting each statement, which makes me think that there is no exact science to it. "Only the movie suits had 20-25mm joining strips. In the replica costuming world where we have every different body shape known to man, the rules change. The joining strips should cover the ridge - period!" "if you have a wide flat joining area then I think it looks better to have a wider strip to cover it. You don't have to cover it completely, but a wider strip looks better than a thinner strip." Anyway, to my question - My forearms, legs, etc are quite skinny, and I think I will ned very narrow cover strips. I'm even measuring up and think I will need to cut off completely the 'flat sections' at the join of the foreams. If I end up leaving some of the ridge on, can I use a very narrow (say 8-10mm) coverstrip if I need to? I don't want to create another argument, but as I'm using CA Glue I won;t b ble to undo errors easily - Hoping the answer will be, use common sense or whatever you need to, to make it fit or something like that. Cheers

Well, she's screwed together. Bobby - yes, going for screen accuracy, so I might leave the gaps in the ears . For now, anyway. Will see how I feel later in the build. Here's a few pics: Can't remember the thread, but there is a ANH screen shot of a trooper with bigger gaps than this. You're right Bobby. I didn't notice. Still not 100% sure what I'll do at the bottom. I'll see what it lopks like when I put the S-Trim on and go from there. You're right James. Not a lot of room in these lids. Quite a bit smaller than the old FX. More to come....

Is that the white and orange Star Wars Rebels one you're referring to? I'm not an expert on Rebels, but it doesn't look like an E-11 to me. That barrell would require too much modification to make the folding stock worth it, I reckon.

I assume you mean the brow trim, near the Trap. If so, yes, I'm starting at that corner.

Thanks Mike. I'll trim the ears a bit more as you suggest. I know the armor (and helmet) isn't meant to be symetrical but I took some pics to show. First one, you get the idea that the back isn't even: With some tape down the centre, next one shows approx 105mm to the left edge and approx 125mm to the right. I wonder if it worth packing out the actual cap 'n' back, rather than trimming too much of the ear.

Ok, progressed some more on the ears this afternoon. I think I'm happy with the fit of them. They will sit a bit closer than most shots show once the screws are done up (it's hard holding top with one hand, bottom with one hand and camera with the other) However, it's that right hand side pictured in my earlier post that is still causing me grief. See how far the ear goes inwards. Not much I can do about it now. You can see te pencil line where the 'offcut' of ABS starts. I've even trimmed well above this. I'll keep going and see what happens.....

That's exactly what I need to do so the ear covers everything. Originally followed the trim line, but bymoving the ear (left) back by about 3mm, I'll need to trim it back some more. I'll try get some pics of that so future MTK builders will see what we're talking about. Edit - Pics added. Originally cut at the trim line, but for the ears to fully cover the join, I had to move the ear back and cut here:

Thanks for everyone's input. Most build threads don't show this part, so wasn't sure.... A bit more playing around with the ears last night, I realise that they will cover everything up. James, yes that brow cut was just very rough and curved so it didn't split until I worked out where to cut it. Fully trimmed now. Hadn't thought about the TD for the ammo belt. It needs to be pre curved does it? I'll try put that in the memory bank for when I'm up to there. Busy few days ahead now, so will post updates when I can. Cheers all. Ian

A bit more progress last night/this morning. Might need to check a few more Reference pics and trim a bit more of these: Eyes are ok, I think. Although I haven't fitted the brow yet, my concern is with the fit ofthe two halves. Does this approximate placement look right, and if so, will the ears and S-Trim tidy up the join? It's not looking too good at the moment

Lucky I did it with the dremel and not the 9 inch grinder!