I'm Batman

Ditto? No idea what this means (lol!!) but I assume awesome or something along those lines. Looking good Steve. Would a large drill bit in a bench drill have sped up the gringing out process a bit? Can't wait to get mine......

Quick update. Decided to paint the inside of the bucket black. Can't see much detail in there, but I guess that's the idea. Looks heaps better I reckon. The foam blends in, can't see the screw heads, etc....

Excuse my electronics newbie-ism, but does this amplify external sound (ie: people talking TO you), so you can hear them better?

Here's one thread from not too long ago http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26474-hengstler-number-readout/

Although the CRL's don't mention either way, I'd be doing the hook method if you're aiming for EIB or Centurion. It's how it was done in the movies. However if you're just after basic approval, anything goes.

That looks a lot better. Original one seemed to have curved ends as well which I've never seen before.

Good job Frank. Looks great

Great start. You should ask the moderators to move your thread to the build threads section though.

Thanks Adam. Onto the thermal detonator. I think I followed most of TK_LEPER's tutorial using 25x1mm aluminium from the local hardware store. Measured, drilled Main curve Final bends Absolutely impossible to find flat head drive screws around here, so a bit of putty and a dremel, done. Finished!

Good to see some artistic ways of presenting the box.

Confused..... Ahhh, ok, Verns original comment was just saying that the Humbrol manufacturing process has changed slightly over the years. So Humbrol # 5 is still the closest out of the bottle, just not perfect.

To what? Since when? And if the above document is pinned in the How To section, then it should be deleted immediately if that is the case.

Ha Ha, I was too lazy to post the actual picture though.

Sounds like there's a whole topic of discussion to be had later (or has already been had in the past), perhaps not in Wade's private EIB thread though. Either way - Armor does look awesome Wade. Aussie, Aussie, Aussie, Oi, Oi, Oi!

This is what I followed http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/8117-helmet-ab-paint-detail-reference-guide/

I'm assumng that image has been around since about 1977. Why are the CRL's like the way they are then? The above may not be normal, but Han with his two hand guards is not normal either and we allow that. Or is the above normal - 2 in the same screen shot the same.....

I won't go looking for the thread now, but someone posted a picture of the break central at the rear. Maybe they were done both ways?

Ok, progress - As expected, once the S-Trim was installed, I had a big gap near the ear, so I cut a little triangle from ABS, glued it in: Whipped up some ABS paste with shavings and Acetone. In hindsight, I should have mixed it up more to make it more pasty, as it was hard to smooth out. I ended up giving up and just relying on the trusty dremel to smooth it out later But it turned out pretty good And the end result, I think the helmet is finished

Good tip on the lens fixing there. Have you got a build thread happening Adam? I'm building my MTK armor as well at the moment.

Another quality TM suit! It looks like you've only cut out 3 teeth per side on the frown, but left paint off 5 of them. Should be 4 cut and painted either side, I believe

When you add the straps to the shoulder bells, that may stop them twisting around

No messing around. Straight to Centurion you go!

Isn't the green part just vacant space in between 2 drawings?

My MTK was ordered on a Saturday. Shipped on the Monday. (Obviously workloads and other commitments change from time to time though)

Email them direct, or PM Mike on these forums - MTK. His service in all of my purchases over the past couple of weeks has been second to none.