I'm Batman

Thanks. I couldn't tell from your videos. (And you've changed your name back!?)

HELP!! Are shins meant to look like this? I've gone for the original elastic/hook method, and there just seems to be a huge gap. But I guess, the elastic is there, the hook is there, the cover strip is there, the holes in the shin are there. Is there anything I've missed or done wrong, or is that just the way it is. The only real photo reference I can find is this, which could appear to be a fair gap too.

You could certainly bring them in off the end caps a bit. Current CRL say "little to no gap". The old CRL used to say 3mm. Left hand side of this one is even more. I would square off the ends a bit too, if not too late. Also, if you want to or need to trim your pipe, remember the ends will be covered by the caps, so any old hacksaw / timber saw / dremel or rough cut will do.

They're stuck to your ceiling

Looks great! So that's just white glue, then paint over the foam?

Looks awesome! To the uneducated, embarrassed to ask on therpf, are there any makers of iron man suits, like we have TK makers? Or are they all foam or paper built with Bondo, fibreglass on top? No one doing ABS pulls ready from trimming and painting?

You've started now. May as well continue Good luck and enjoy the build!

PP sent

Have a look at Mike's videos on trooperbay.com. He explains the left/right shins really well. Basically look at your own calves and see how the leg muscles look on the inner and outer. The armor shins are the same.

Does that mean you might even finish your E-11 build now?

Just look at all the build threads and you'll see the countless builds of Resin Doopy kits, DVH, pipe builds, scratch built, real conversions, THG, pre built RS, etc. As you say, you must have a better E-11 for Centurion, but most of it is the joy of building, the thrill of completing a project, seeing it come together and seeing the final result. Me - I did a slap together Hasbro, for basic approval and trooping and now, I've nearly get everything together for a better, more rewarding build.

If I was a betting man, I'd say you'll be right and won't have to move it, but if you do, then yes chicago screws, rivets, snaps are all fine to affix with. I can't/won't quote the thread right now, but my earlier research indicated any are fine. I've gone for half a snap with a washer on the inner part on mine.

At least you can see the lighter side of it all. Great blaster, but start fresh with your armor purchase. And welcome to this wonderful world of the FISD!

That first one may be one of the many anomolies in the movie, similar to pics of the RC suite in our costume photo references. This one clearly shows the belt fixed in the centre of the belt which is also not as per recommendations.

If you do work on the TD, I you may as well swap out the screws for some black slotted screws. Other that that, a fantastic looking build! Well done.

You're a funny man Tim. You should consider a change of career. On second thoughts...... LOL! I did that too on my last build. It was terrible! I'm doing all my sewing by hand this time around. An no sticky velcro. I'm also struggling with Photobucket at the moment. Is yours working ok Tim? Not sure if it's the software or my computer.....

Haha! It is weird to have an assembly section AND a build threads. Assembly is probably for one off questions, build threads for a complete start to finish. I saw your question a week or two back about your helmet. Was waiting or this thread and will be watching keenly. Join the club with the ABS paste discoloration. Luckily mine is in a less obvious area. Great job with the tooths. Good luck and try to enjoy this white plastic jigsaw.

Thanks for the input. I think that's just the well published weird shape of the MTK armor. Will consider Toybiz's re shaping trick at some point. I think it will look better once I pad them out too so they sit right. The length and spacing was more what I was checking on.

Practice and patience. Grab some spare ABS, or paper for that matter and just practice painting straight lines. Other will probably chime in with types of brushes that may be best. I just used whatever old modelling brush I had in my paint kit.

I had a buddy come around last night. He used a heat gun to bend his belt the other day. He made up a template similar to the link mentioned in Tim's thread (I think). He got a bit close and deformed one of the boxes and the overall shape of the belt. I think I'll leave mine as is! Anyway, feedback time if I can ask nicely I've got the shoulder bells snapped onto the shoulder straps. The biceps and forearms are just taped there at the moment. Personally, I think it's ok. I'm a little concerned that the ends of my forearms will rub against my painted hand guards. Thoughts welcomed..... And the left

Looking fantastic Aaron. Did I see a debate about which one is more screen accurate, or don't we want to go there again? So you want the holes fully covered do you?

I think we've been doing it all wrong guys. These two guys seem to have it sorted. CRL's will need to be updated to include joggers, white blasters, (I could go on) and how could we be so wrong putting hand guards on the hands, They obviously go on your elbows! My mate is holidaying in Vegas at the moment and thought he would share this pic with me.

My stars aligned today aswell. Some Doopy parts took 11 days from England to Australia! Andy's cylinders only took 9 days though, so probably comes down to the amount of time it takes them to get to the post office.

And he gets to dremel/grind metal indoors at the kitchen table

CRL says "minimal". I take that to means as small as possible, therefore I've just glued mine on to about where Kyle's are. I would think 1/2" (12.5mm) would be way too big??