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I'm Batman

501st Member[501st]
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Everything posted by I'm Batman

  1. Sorry, first reply wasn't relevant after Gino's reply... It's just great that we are getting more and more options available to us builders. And as previously touched on, the only likely way prices are going to come down is with more competition, so more the merrier in my opinion. Individuals can judge for themselves what they like the look of best and how much their willing to pay.
  2. Or PM him at "ABS80". He's always on the forums.
  3. You probably won't get the ridges to match up. Not many do. Just get it looking right, use as many clamps as needed and get glue wherever you can. Nice blaster too. Is that the rubies one?
  4. But that detail was dropped from the CRL some time ago which now specifies a 45 degree angle, which is either 13x13 or 10x10. As Steve says, just eyeball it till it looks right.
  5. I was holding the skewer with the bracket on it, whilst my buddy handled the Oxy. Getting hot Receiver portion gone! I'm guessing the gold colour is the remains of the brazing compound used to fuse the parts together. All that will be cleaned off with the dremel/sandpaper before fixing to the PVC pipe. That instalment to come later. No locating nub, as mentioned previous post. Shouldn't be a drama.
  6. Great work Brian. Nice idea on the metal sleeve for the trigger
  7. You're right! These oxy torches would whip through marshmallows pretty quick! Done in 30 seconds I reckon. Red hot, then dropped off. Pics to come...... Mine doesn't seem to have a locating nub like yours did, so not sure what's going on there.
  8. Ok, wish me luck. Heading over to a mates house tonight for him to oxy torch my folding stock bracket off - aka Aaron's method in his Steel Pipe build. I think I need that in place before I can 100% confirm where items like the rear end cap need to be. Will post pics and progress later in the week.
  9. 'We are based in Shanghai area'
  10. You sure they're in the UK? Their boots might be ok but their english interpretation on the website is pretty ordinary.
  11. Nice job Kyle. Do I see a bayonet lug on there?? The other common oversight is that the grip shouldn't have any weathering as it was a shiny plastic, not metal like the rest of the blaster. Well done?
  12. Sorry bout that. I didn't bother doing the metric conversion from your first post. I'll pay more attention next time
  13. Looking at these shots, it is quite normal for the forearm to be short, just make sure you have less gap at the elbow and more at the wrist. And definitely no return edge on the wrist end of the forearm. I think the CRL referes to the "inside" circumference, rather than the outside circumference.
  14. Yep. DVH kit covers that. It has a bit that goes into the pipe, then another bit that extends for the end cap to screw onto.
  15. It's not just build up of melted CF that would just break off by hand or cutting off with a blade to preserve the weave underneath. I'm actually surprised to see it flake and shred so much. I've worked with carbon fibre a bit (with RC cars) and haven't come across it doing that before? Different type of CF obviously. My guess is a DVH kit is in his possession . Rear end cap and inner bolt works perfectly for 40mm pipe with about 3mm wall.
  16. No pressure Aaron.... You've only got the whole FISD watching.
  17. You've got the E-11 molds Derrek. Whip up some cf parts for us will you!
  18. WOW, WOW, WOW! I'm already imagining what the finished result will be. You've already done basically a real Sterling with all real parts. Will this be ALL carbon fibre? Magazine, sights, cylinders. Yes please.... Drool, drool, drool.
  19. Thanks Brian. Will be watching yours eagerly!
  20. Yeah, I thought the same. Easier to round of the sight, rather than cut into the pipe. If it was a simple vertical cut it might be OK, but lots of room for error with those angles - I think.
  21. Haha, I see why your such an advocate of fitting the biceps to your size Looking good mate. Not so sure about your crotch feature though.
  22. Front sight - After cutting the sight away from the guard, I was left with this After thinking about adding green stuff and re-shaping........... ..........I thought, nup too hard. Lets start again. Thoughts? [/url] After finishing last night, then seeing Aaron's templates with exact measurements, mine is a mm or so out here and there. Do you think it is good enough, or perhaps start again now that I have the accurate measurements? Thanks for the feedback.
  23. Some of the pieces Starting a bit of clean up.... Mmmmm, dust! And some filling of most pieces wth some green stuff
  24. If you're going for accuracy, check out http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26477-what-we-know-about-strapping-snaps-rivets-etc/ It's only really the visible ones (shoulder bridges, shoulder bells, etc) that matter. If it's not visible, no dramas. No way near as much. You can see how people attach the snaps in their EIB/Centurion apps and count approximately how many you need. BTW, I went for the webbing plates, mainly for the contour reasoning.
  25. Yes E-11 Blaster For 501st approval: Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. For level two certification (if applicable): Folding stock (does not need to function). A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - shall be present. D-ring mounted on the rear. Sterling based blasters have the correct M-38 or M-19 style scope. Two power cylinders on the magazine housing. Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered). If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster and you cover all the rows of holes, the blaster will have 7 T-tracks total. But, if you want to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total) with the lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side, then you shall cover the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, and grind off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side and drill a new row of holes in its place. No ESB/ROTJ greeblies are allowed on the blaster. For level three certification (if applicable): Hasbro blasters are not allowed, even conversions.
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