Will definitely pick up some of these types of high speed cutters today to try them, Main section I need to smooth out is the large radius at the front of the ejection port.
Haha, no problems at all Aaron. We can once again rely on your highly detailed response with informative useful information. Thank you. I probably bought the JB Weld because it was a GOOD product (with a good marketing hype). As we're not building a life dependent blaster I'll stick with the JB for now, and if it fails take some of that great info and look for something better. Cheers.
Good tips. Thanks Derrek. As Aaron previously mentioned and i have found about the bits clogging up.... I am almost where I need to be, just with my hand file. But I will look at some of the metal grinding bits. Heading to the shop tomorrow, so I'll check them out. Thanks.
Yeah, maybe that's why I struggled a bit. Typical me though, didn't want to fork out the $$ for an expensive step drill bit so have done the 2mm, 4mm, 6mm, 8mm increments on the drill press. Some of the holes just need a bit of tidying up...
Aluminium in hand. Only $9- so why not... Tell you what, its a bit harder than PVC is. I need some more dremel bits for grinding/smoothing out some of the curves (ejection port, misaligned holes, etc). I assume the Aluminium Oxide bits for the dremel are the best??http://www.dremel.com/en-au/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=932 Any other suggestions? Pics to come soon.
He's ^^ the man that knows! I don't see any problems for basic approval either. It also looks like your hand plates are strapped around your wrist, rather than the palm of your hand. If your GML is picky they may get you to retake photos with them lowered.
Never seen one like that - most just use fly mesh. I used metal fly mesh. However if you want to do it, just find your metal you like, bend it to shape, cut it to fit and glue it in.
Haha, so if you didn't test it, you would have had the same result anyway. Thought you stuffed it up and tried to fix your stuff up with polish. When you come to think of it 400-600 is still quite course. I use 1000-1200 on a lot of plastic kit building stuff I do.
Jeez, Derrek.... Your making me think here. Yes, local Aussie ebay has 40mm OD x 34mm ID aluminium tube for not a lot of $$. You main 3 items - inner bolt, front muzzle and rear cap lock all have about a 33-34mm diameter, so would be perfect. Might have to put this build on hold for a bit.
I did. That was my first thought, and I have the Ikea table leg in the garage. However it's only 1.1mm thick compared to 2.6mm so your inner bolt is a bit loose and the front and rear ends are also loose. Seems like they were made for PVC. But mainly it wouldn't be thick enough to allow the use of securing pins. I am skeptical, as Steve was, to the strength of expoxy on it's own. It won't be my main trooping weapon, but it will certainly get a lot of use 'showing off' to my mates...
Great idea using the headphone jacks Brian. I would really love the clicking into position switch aswell. I've got one idea, just not sure if I could pull it off...
Good idea Aaron. I'll have a closer look at that tonight. Worse case I could drill a small hole in the receiver wall to gain access with the screwdriver, then fill it prior to painting. I've already done this to accommodate a charging handle mod I've got under way. I would just have to make sure the screw heads don't foul the movement of the inner bolt. Already given both parts of the arm/bracket a going over to minimise binding. Operates nicely .
Thanks Tino and Aaron.
That was my exact concern too. However it is exactly the same size and fitment method if I used the DVH hinge bracket and others that I've spoken to suggest that an epoxy type glue will mate the the metal to PVC as effectively as resin to PVC. I will be using locating pins aswell. If it fails, then I guess I can try the DVH resin bracket. Any other thoughts seeing as it isn't preformed like a Doopy kit?