I'm Batman

Ian Naden 11409 EIB A4

Germain. Thanks for your explanation and diagram. As I thought.... Thanks Aaron. As you say, in my case, if I don't have a functioning clip, it will need to be a bit further forward to allow the functioning of the end cap/internal spring. Hopefully Vern won't be too hard on me. OR, I do what your suggesting, Brian is attempting and Truimphmark apparently has already done and make the clip functioning? Looking at my end lug, the bit that joins the pipe was definitely more than 40mm, but uneven, hence why I ground it down, but the rear section where the notches are, is only 40mm. That's probably where I got confused. The end cap does still function but perhaps is a little loose. I'll consider putting a thin strip of abs around the lug to pack it out again. Thanks for everyones input.

Gotcha. Thanks

Thanks Derrek - I guess that as we don't have a working lock, I'll need to rely on the spring in order to have the end cap removable and able to lock/unlock the folding stock. And thank you Germain. That picture down the bottom of that thread is what I was looking for, showing the smaller first spring and larger second spring. I think in one of Aaron's threads it shows the spring nearly at the ID of the pipe, so I'll try source something that fits (or make my own). I'm not sure if I fully understand your second point though Germain. I think a real sterling is 38.1mm and mine is 40mm, but apparently Lou designed his parts around a 40mm pipe. Derrek will possibly confirm. Everything seems to function ok (apart from the lock underneath of course. I do hope that I haven't made a mistake though. The outer circumference of the rear lock wasn't perfectly circular, so I sanded it smooth, equal to the pipe - 40mm. Still seems to function ok. Pics to come.

While I'm on the end cap - a question o the real sterling owners.... Is it the idea that the end cap screws onto the receiver, then the spring pushes it back to secure it in place. And the way the folding stock locks into place is by the end cap moving forward to allow the stock to slide into the little catches, then the cap 'springs' back to lock onto the tabs? So I need to make sure my spring is long enough and strong enough to do this. I hope that makes sense Not a great pic but hopefully someone will know what I'm talking about.

I'm not 100% on this next bit, but the DVH kit comes with the enlarged rear cap lock/end piece. The idea is that it slides into the pipe, glues on and the end cap goes on as normal. My concern with this is that it takes the inside diameter from 34mm to about 25mm. Problem with that is if I put a spring in there, it needs to be 34mm so it fits to the inside of the main receiver. Right? Then it won't be able to come out of the 25mm end piece. Neither will the inner bolt. Not that they need too, but I might want to in the future. I probably should have asked advice first, but I've cut off the bit that goes into the receiver, then I started to enlarge the ID of the end piece And that's where I'm at. I guess it will just end up being an extension of the main tube which I'll have to secure with extra pins or a locking method similar to the way I did my trigger pin. Thoughts?

That's what its all about!

Ah Tim, my future Expert Infantryman compatriot. One would have thought a EIB holder such as yourself would have checked the checklist http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/22604-expert-infantry-application-photo-checklist/ before making a comment such as that.... Perhaps it was more than one ale too many this morning?

You sure you didn't have one too many ales this morning/afternoon (whatever time it is over there..)?

Thanks everyone for the comments. Odd about that Tim. The pic was there before and is there as I type now. Anyone else, let me know if you can't see it. Yeah, I did the cut out when it was made an EIB requirement. They then ditched it, made it Centurion and increased the size. Haven't touched it since. I will probably need to move my interior strapping by 10mm or so to make that happen...

Thanks Derrek. Even though it will all be covered in a few layers of paint, it is definitely worth it, knowing what's underneath and looking at and feeling it as you build. (Hmm, that sounds a bit saucy, doesn't it) I did drill straight though, then put tape on the inside before I put the pins in. I really only had to sand down the aluminium shards that were there from drilling. Future pins I might get tricky and try to only drill 2.5mm or so into the 3.0mm pipe. Don't know how successful I'll be though. Thanks for the comment! Thanks Brian. Yep, used a drill press. I also routed a V-groove into a length of timber to sit the tube in. It did help a bit to keep it straight, but as I didn't clamp it, it did still move around a little. The Step Drill bit helped me manually tidy up the few holes that were off. Thanks Aaron. Sure is. I was glad to see the last of it though. I don't envy Derrek who manually did all those tubes he was shipping out with his kits. Bring on the CNC machined ones.

Ok, as previously mentioned I did go and buy an aluminium tube. I had a few dramas with drilling and smoothing. I ended up ordering and waiting (and waiting) for a step drill set (thanks for the tip Aaron, and others) and those dremel bits spoken about. They really do work quite well on aluminium. One tube 150hrs labour later, and BAM! I opted for the 40mm OD, 34mm ID pipe which was the same as the PVC I started with, mainly for the ability to use pins and not have to worry about screws. A few internal moving parts planned For interests sakes - 40mm drilled PVC = 176grams. 40mm drilled Aluminium = 320grams As discussed earlier, I've used JB Weld epoxy and metal pins (lucky I had one coathanger left. The rest are plastic). Let's start with the real folding stock Pins sitting proud. Will grind off later And gone. It seems pretty solid, but time will tell I guess. Will contine with epoxy'ing some other items next.

Amazing work with the saw Brian. I saw them down at the local hobby shop. Nearly double the price online, but by the time you add postage and the USD conversion..... I wonder if it'll improve my precision over my 5inch angle grinder?

Good luck! Looks great Brian. I think your perfectionism is showing through in relation to those buttons. Almost too perfect if you ask me. I think in my early research days, I came across a thread saying they shouldn't be perfect circles anyway - one of the reasons I totally freehanded mine. You're shoulder bells do look quite big in that photo.... Maybe just the angle, or that your biceps are perfectly sized which we don't see often? Anyway, no way you'll need luck. Easy pass! You just need a blaster now. LOL!

Had a look at the 4 or 5 other EIB's that used Hasbros and they all seemed to do that T-Track/extra hole mod, so I'll admit defeat there . Original post updated with Doopy blaster instead.

Sorry, missed this question. Doopy complete kit. Stock Standard, usual inclusions - scope, hengstler, cylinders, aluminium rail. No other frills, just resin, glue and paint = 1020g (sorry, it does also have wires on it)

Thanks Aaron. I should have mentioned in my earlier post - I used the 'locking' idea for the selector switch too. Basically put two cuts with the cut off wheel on the dremel in the switch handle and the electronics switch shaft with a piece of ABS joining the 2. LOL! Nice picture created in MS Paint...

Forgot to take a 'finished' photo of the selector switch after sanding and tidying up. Oh well, that will come...The trigger. Nothing fancy here. All been done before, the old ball point pen spring trick. The trigger mold did need a bit of filling Packed with green stuff, then sanded About there I reckon.... Hollowed out, plus a small hole to fit the spring. Two ball point pens were sacrificed for the making of this E-11 The DVH kit comes with a mold of a 'real' trigger, hence the very large hole. A bit harder to hide than a little pin that most use for Doopy builds. Luckily the pour spouts were still on the folding stock which was a perfect diameter. To take up the slack, I placed a regular metal washer either side of the trigger. That also ensures it stays centred. In, and working To try to conceal the pivot pin and to 'lock' it in position, I sanded it down flush, then carved a slot in it, across the main handle part aswell Then inserted some ABS to 'lock' the two together And....... bugger! Missed that photo too. Will post this reply now incase I get caught up with the twins.... Update to come. And a bit of epoxy and sanded smooth. Here's a bit of a better shot of the finished selector switch too Thanks for having a look. Feel free to offer sugestions/improvements. Cheers

That's what I did with my old kit. 10 years ago I just wanted a cool looking display so I bought it. Now progressed to the 501st, so I sold it to a dad to give his 6 year old a cool looking display. Plenty of people will still want a lesser quality kit.

There's a lot of 'ifs'' in that paragraph. I took them to be optional depending on how accurate you want an inaccurate toy blaster to be. I've got a totally no frills doopy kit that I could photograph if I needed to, but this Hasbro is my current trooping weapon. I'll probably wait till I finish the DVH kit for centurion though. I probably breathed in too much and over tightened the belt. Lol!

Hey Jason. Armor looks great, however you might want to check out this thread. Weapons are mandatory unfortunately. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/18412-blasters-optional/

Mandatory Armor Maker: MTK (ATA sniper knee) Helmet Maker: MTK. All hand painted Blaster Type: Doopy Doos resin kit Optional Height - 175cm Weight - 76kg Boots - Horseland Jodphurs. Rubber outer Canvas Belt: Trooperbay Hand Plates: painted Trooperbay, on rubber gloves Electronics: n/a Neck Seal: unknown origIn Holster: Obickay (Southern Cross Garrison) Photos Front - Arms at Side Back - Arms at Side Left - Arm Raised Right - Arm Raised Right Side Detail Left Side Detail Abdomen Details Action Shot Cod & Butt Plate Attachment Interior Strapping Helmet Front Helmet Back Helmet Left Helmet Right Hovi Tip Lens Colour Blaster Right Blaster Left Blaster D-Ring Neck Seal Thermal Detonator Holster Attachment Thank you for your consideration and any comments/constructive criticism regarding future improvement. Cheers Ian Edit - Post updated with correct blaster

Thanks for the feedback guys. Appreciate it. I was worried on the drive home, whether the 3 step switch would line up, thinking I should have got a different one. I thought I'd give it a go anyway and replace the switch if it was no good. I unfortunately never got to test it, as when I put the switch back together it lost its 3 step phase and turned into a multi switch set up. No idea how as it could only go back together one way.... So it actually now 'ratchets' all the way through from A to S. I think I quite like it better this way. Makes a cool sound, 'ratcheting' through the range.

Ok - My one and only original idea (although I have just thought of another one, so stay tuned for that one). I really want as many functional parts that I can on this build. Next to think about was the selector switch. Many just glue it on, or put it on a post, or screw through it, but I wanted to try get the switch to 'click' into position. Hmmm.... Found this at the local electronics store. Its a rotary dial/switch. Not sure what it would be currently used for - old style TV channel changer, something like that. It comes in 3 step, 6 step and 12 step positions. It is big though: Pulled apart to see what is usable. Basically the spring pushes the ball bearing into place and 'clicks' into position: Bad news, I need to maintain the diameter to keep it operational, but I can cut down the height and remove the back of it no problem Started hollowing out the handle where the switch will need to go And fits right in Then I basically glued it in, ensuring I didn't get glue onto any of the moving parts (ok, I lie. First time I DID glue to rotating parts, so had to pull it our and re-do it). I then placed some styrene to cover the bulk of the hole, then filled the rest with green stuff. Still in the process of final shaping. I will try to get most of the definition/features back, but not to the extent that others are doing at the moment Cheers Ian

Awesome work Aaron. You and Brian are masters of this resin carving business! Amazing.