I'm Batman

The man who owns the photos also owns the below for sale thread. Contact Tino either for his whole kit, just the wire or good old advice. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28444-fs-completion-sets-for-e-11-kits-like-doopydoo%E2%80%99s-full-resin-kit-incl-worldwide-shipping-and-paypal/

Just to add another comment to the mix - I decided to use CA on the bits that were easy and wouldn't be required to be taken apart. Started on the biceps too. Guess what, I later had to take the biceps apart..... e6000 from then on. And no, I didn't use the hooks, just elastic and snaps going from shoulder to become Tom ore arm.

Awesome. Thanks Tino. It is probably on that excel sheet of mine in my first post, but saves me looking it up

Cheers Derrek. As we've said a few times, it's all about continued improvement, so it's great that your looking at ways to do that for us!

Tell you what Aaron, I was scared too. The further I went, the more little screws I found. Can't believe there's so many components to a scope! Had to be done considering the marks on the prisms. I'm actually now starting to get scared about the painting. Without double checking, I think it was Tino who did a few test paint jobs - one was simply dabbing paper over wet paint. That might be worth trying on the scope. I've pretty much only got the T-Tracks and sliding bolt/spring to go I think, then I've got to start thinking about the whole painting process and what must be installed first before the next bit can be.

Good pick up Tino. I missed that, but it was only just sitting together for the photo. No glue yet. In fact, no glue ever - more on that to come.... It is a fantastic item. A shame it they couldn't write the 'Hengslter 400' on it though

I'm 175ish, 75ish with MTK. Still plenty or room for a few extra kilos.

The Scope. Referring above posts, I didn't want to use the DVH scope, so thought I'd pick up a Doopy at the same time I ordered the Doopy counter. My ultimate goal was to have a real scope, but finances meant a Doopy with hollowed out centre and clear lenses would have to do. Until I found a M77C scope for sale at a very good price. Well, very good compared to what M38s, M40s and M19s go for! An expert might be able to say more, but the M77C is basically the same as a M38A2. First off was to give it a bath in Oven Cleaner! Which stripped the paint straight off The condition of the optics would be described as fair, so I decided to pull it all apart and give it a clean All these specs were inside There were some quite heavy marks on the two crystals/prisms inside, but I got the majority off with good ol' glass cleaner. (Another tip from Master Aaron) The targeting scale was side to side in the middle of the scope, so as Aaron has previously stated he did, I thought why not, may as well try to correct it. After many, many, many attempts to get it sitting vertical I finally had it right. Until I had a real close look and realised the numbers were back to front. I was looking at the reverse side. So out came the middle lens fully and I had to rotate it in its holding bit And then to my many, many, many attempts to get it vertical again. The result is definitely worth it. Unfortunately, my camera does not capture a great shot of it Internally, I'm good. Externally, I need to do something about the shape. You an see here the start of packing in green stuff into the middle section. Bit by bit, and it ends up like It has the little indent on the left hand side (middle picture above), but is missing the number '2' or '3'' that most have. My skills will NOT allow me to make that number, so it's a price to pay, for the price I paid. I have also lost the texture in the middle section so I'll have to consider that when it comes to paint time. Next instalment - the rails and putting the scope and counter on. Thanks for checking in. Ian

Interesting concept - better to have one wrong one than 10 correct ones. Fair enough.

This is what made me sad, so probably Vern too. It looks like the cast has sunk again after coming out of the mold, like I commented on with the counter. You can see below the DVH is quite a bit smaller at the larger end of the scope. It also slopes down quite significantly unlike any other I've seen. The other major thing that was not happy with was the lack of details in the lettering. You can just make out the '38' here, but the rest of the lettering is almost non-existant. A couple of other minor flaws, but anyway, I'll post how I addressed these later.

Oh, I lost my quotes.... Re-post coming

Can the powers to be modify or remove this thread then? It is the first thread, top of the list. People shouldn't be expected to see a how to colour chart, then read 4 pages to find it is wrong.

Your wealth of knowledge is widely known and appreciated Vern, and I'm sure your pictures will be popping up for a long time yet! Ah yes, of course. Didn't think about that. TBH, I didn't spend a lot of time on the front, so I'll look some more to try to improve it. Anything specifically obvious, or just the whole thing in general? Um....yes.....well..... I was as well, and my next post (should be up tonight, Aussie time) will be about the scope and how I decided to tackle that. Another interesting photo Vern! I do wonder if the DVH mold was taken from this style of bolt instead as it is very similar. However I do prefer the other style and mods/details most of us are putting into it. And this was a quote from Dennis about his counter conversions: "Thanks for your interest in my resin counter conversin kit. Yes the cover has non Hengstler 400 engraved because this is not a Hengstler counter. Its a look a like from another manufactor." Definitely no Green bolt going in my blaster!

And don't worry, I've had quite a few Maxwell Smart moments too!

Nice work Greg. Does anything ever 'just go together'? To save you on that engraving, you could always pick up one of Steves magazines. Simple glue it in mod that makes a big visual difference, I think. Looks like you'll still be finished in no time though....

Looking fantastic Kev. What thickness is your scope rail? It is Aluminium?

No problems at all Derrek. All sorted now! did have a few concerns when I first bought the kit, but Lou was more than helpful in addressing those concerns. I also understand that you are bending over backwards to develop and and improve this kit to new and unprecedented standards, so people should not interpret my thoughts or parts to the current spec Dday DVH. I guess I'm just showing what mods I am doing to the parts and in some situations, why I am required to make those mods. Cheers Ian

Thanks Aaron! Dennis definitely had a few of them. This was his second run http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28550-fs-2-run-resin-counter-conversion-kit-counter-like-hengstler/ . Not sure if they were all sold or if he has more available...

The Hengstler. Unfortunately, I think I received a less the perfect Hengstler with my kit. I wasn't comfortable using it, so I purchased a Doopy Hengstler to use instead. I had grand plans to do the number and window mod that many others have done until I saw the for sale thread of TK-50101 Blue Snaggletooth (Dennis), selling immitation rear halves. I thought it would be really cool to have the numbers able to move, then click the reset button, then move them again. So, some pics The DVH - seemed to have dropped after setting, like how a cake sinks when you take it out of the oven A few comparison shots - DVH, Doopy and Snaggletooth The idea is to use the front half of a resin counter and the rear Snaggletooth one which has a real window, working dials, working reset button, etc. Only thing it doesn't have is the "Hengstler 400" logo. I did contemplate cutting this out of the DVH, but the Snaggletooth one was way to thin to try to cut into it. Oh well..... Like so Dennis also included the little connectors that required drilling out holes here. Jeez, they were tough! ...and the little screw that goes under there. Quite a bit of filling little cracks and bubbles on the front half, but not a lot more to say about the rear as everything was already done for me . I'll get to how I actually mounted the counter when I post on my rail and bracket process. Cheers

That's okay Brian & Aaron. I will wait patiently... Gee, not much work ahead of you there Aaron. I've done a little research myself into the parts sets. Not sure how I'll go as even folding stocks are supposedly controlled items not allowed to be imported without proper application and licensing.

Thanks for the feedback guys. Appreciate it. I'm working on the Hengstler, scope and scope rail at the moment, so that will be my next update - hopefully in a couple of days... Brian - you and Aaron are giving me withdrawal symptoms with no recent updates on your builds What's going on....?

Sight guard re-done. It's a little hard to tell with (1) my rubbish photography, and (2) all the different colours (sanded green stuff, raw resin, rough green stuff, etc), but I think it will look ok with paint on it.... Next small update is my inner barrel. Yes, it will mostly be hidden, and dark in there, but you'e just gotta have one. If nothing else it looks cool before the T-Tracks go on. 18mm Curtain rod with 2 aluminium discs cut out - OD of curtain rod and ID of main receiver. Small cuts on both edges are just to allow the epoxy to soak in for more surface area contact (I think that's the theory behind my madness) Epoxy'd like so Sliding in And looks pretty good I think. It will sit just in front of the sliding bolt and just behind the front muzzle. Merry Xmas everyone! Just spent the last 3 hours building a new trampoline for the 2yo twins! Time for bed for me....

I was going to ask the same question Brian. Assuming it's a doopys, but the pipe is definitely different. Looks good. And I'm sure sellers with part with 1 track at a time. I only bought 2 from Marv when I got mine as I already had some from a mates build. However, I'd make sure you get the same maker as they're all different.

Good luck Tim! As you say, decide what armor/movie you want to replicate. Basically, what Steve said . From what I understand you can't make ROTJ armor out of ATA which leaves you ANH or ESB. Doopy kit doesn't come with ESB greeblies so you'd have to make your own or source them elsewhere. DVH do a ESB version so you could contact Dday to see what his wait times are. Can't wait to see what you come up with.

Amazing attention to detail. Would have been challenging to do what you just did! Great job. I hope you don't leave it closed up in a box for too long. People need to see it.