I'm Batman

Spot on guys. I'm sure Aaron won't mind me pinching yet another one of his photos from his Steel Pipe Build thread http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26960-e-11-steel-pipe-build/page-5 The below pic is a great comparison shot for the 2 thicknesses. I probably would have been more confortable with 2.0mm, but that appears to be not available here in Aus, so 1.6mm is fine.

Thanks Brian. Germain's keen eye on Aaron's steel build with the 1/8 - 1/16 rail is what made me definitly go for it. Have a look through his thread and there is a great side by side comparison shot of the two. 2mm would be a good compromise if you do have that.

I wondered where I got it from. I reckon it is a bracket from a bed I built recently. You always have parts left over on these flat packs don't you

Getting scary isn't it? I wonder if I can out source the painting somewhere.....

Excellent. Thanks Germain. I think I can and will definitely do something similar.

Yes, pictures were great. Made it much easier to understand the process. Your pictures may be deceiving, perhaps it just looks long - For reference, my DVH magazine housing is about 4.5cm long and Steve's (gazmosis) magazine is about 3.5cm long from where it goes in up to the clip. Aaron (usaeatt2), has posted some great detailed pics of many components of the Sterling (can't put my finger on them now), but has also detailed some exact measurements here http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28936-e-11-pvc-pipe-build-templates-imperial-and-metric/. Anyway, keep up the fantastic work. If you advertise these I'm sure you will sell a lot!

My thread is updated now, but here is one pic. 2 big holes are obviously where it bolts through to the scope. 4 little holes to the counter.

Looks great Ash. Couln't understand a word of your thread on the spanish garrison, but the pics were really interesting. Amazing the detail you can get by printing separate components as you did. Oh, to have the tools and machines. One can only dream.... Only criticism's would be the front sight could do with a bit of work, the magazine probably doesn't need to be that long, and the printing "ASH" over all your photos was really annoying. Great work. Are you mass producing/selling these?

As per the previous post, you'll see that the cylinders are now on. For ultimate accuracy on a budget and pure awesomeness, I decided on Andy's resin cylinders. They are seriously a work of art. You can see the differences between old DVH and Andys below For those following Dday's (Derreks) posts, everyone will be stoked that these resin cylinders from Andy will now be included with Dday DVH kits. A closer look: Pins and Epoxy again I did have one blow out, due to the very thin walls of the mag housing. Nothing that a bit more epoxy won't fix. From my research there doesn't seem to be a right way or wrong way in respect to lining up the the cylinders in line with the barrel or in line with the mag housing. I opted for the latter. Thought it looked better...

Yeah, that should be a quick and easy fix. Need to get the green stuff out for the Hengstler, so will tackle two jobs at the same time. The Rail and Bracket: I've gone for the fairly standard design scope rail, deciding on the thinner option of 1/16 (1.6mm) thick aluminium, instead of the commonly, but less accurately used 1/8 (3mm). To cut to the chase - the 1/16 is fine! I don't have any flex or bowing with the real scope on it at all, so for most people using resin scopes they would certainly not have a problem using the thinner rail. I used some previously discussed measurements of - Rear scope foot in line with folding stock hinge - Rear of Hengster in line with front of rear foot - Top of Hengstler approximately half way up on the side of the scope With the counter, I wanted to keep the Snaggletooth section operational so had to measure and mark where I could put some screws without fouling the mechanism. I couldn't use glue to join the two halves as this would have been too close to the moving parts. I had some steel angle so drew up a design After one failed attempt, I came up with this So I have 2 screws going into the hollow rear half and 2 screws going into the front resin half. Mounted up it s very solid with no movement. Now I can reset the numbers and only have to remove 2 screws to manually adjust again. (We'll see in the future whether this is a good idea or not. I might get annoyed with it resetting and actually prefer it fixed. We'll see...) The rear screw going into the rear sight. I had to cut the screw short as this one went through into my receiver tube. This would have fouled my bolt from sliding in and out, so had to go. And the scope and counter all mounted up Cheers Ian

Awesome. Thanks for that Derrek. It looks like the DVH mold was made without the undeside oval release button in place. There is about a 2mm oval void where it should be. However I don't think anything is really required to make it 'better'. Might just leave it as is. Cheers

Question for owners of real sterlings if I may: What does the underside of the mag housing look like? Most pics are only of the top, but what is meant to be in that oval shaped recess? Anything? Thanks in advance.

I've made an elongated bracket for mine so I can mount 4 screws in it (as I didn't want to use glue) which should give a bit more security. Will try to put up some pics in my thread later tonight.

Is the blaster 'his' blaster, or a recast of something else? Links or pics?

He's the guy selling FX armor as 501st armor. Hope his blaster is better than his armor. Edit - can't find the link, so better change my statement to "Is he the guy....."

Nearly done! Not sure if it's fixable or not, but the wavy edge of the magazine is meant to Ne left straight. It had those two distinct lines on it. No pics now for you, but have a look at any of the recent threads that have used Steves or an original magazine. Great progress nonetheless.

As the others have said, the front cover strip should be a lot less (and actually there, not just overlapped for more accuracy). Keep that at the 20-25mm and do any shimming at the rear. You may need to actually add extra wide shims onto the rear section of the calves if need be.

Ahh, the master returns. Glad you had a fantastic holiday. Welcome to 20E7. Who needs molds for resin casts? Looks pretty spot on! And the weight saving?

LOL. That was funny! I'm nearly up to that very dihlema - what paint finish to go for. I like some of the recent builders hammer/crinkle finishes. I don't like others. So do I stay away from it and just do regular finishes...?

6 years for me! Had to use tablets (can't remember what they were called). From a pack a day to nothing overnight. Wouldn't be able to afford this little hobby, if I still had that habit.

Post some pcs so we can see your issues. As far as reshaping the knee plate, you could dip it in boiling water to soften it, then reshape.

Thanks Tino, I'll certainly use that nice close up and the other pic above to try to improve mine before I lay some paint down.

Are you using photobucket or similar hosting site?

Any thoughts on what I should be studying Vern? In my investigations, I found this Hengstler in the For Sale section only recently. It looks very similar, almost that this cast could have been molded from it. Obviously a little tidying up here and there, but any major mods required? Thoughts anyone?

Agree with both