I'm Batman

Great progress Mike. Awesome news for future builders of your kit.

But make sure you read allllll the way to the last page, when you then find out the chart is wrong. As gmrhodes says - satin is the way to go.

Looks good overall! Not sure whether it will be an EIB requirement, but I got pulled up in my build thread for cutting too much off my sniper knee - no return edge. I tried glueing it back on, but ended up buying a new one. Goods luck

A combination of products from Gazmosis and T-Jay, this is going to be a great looking E-11. Possibly the only thing missing will be Andy's cylinders, although I understand the Doopys can still look quite good. Great start so far. Will be watching. Oh, have you test fitted your trigger guard yet? Trigger may be sticking out too far, meaning you might need to shorten your spring.

There's still a gap visible in the 'arms down' photo above, but obviously up to Steve whether he needs any more photos for clarification. Good luck.

Looking good overall Glen. How big is that gap on your right hand side? Level 2 is less than 12.5mm, but level 3 is "ideally no gap". I would also paint those tabs on your sides black to blend in with your undersuit.

Thanks Steve. Amazing finds Aaron. I did read your original thread when you did yours in the jig. I just thought, oh yeah, stick it in hole and bend her over. She'll be right, mate! I was reasonably happy with my first attempt until Vern pointed out my flaws. I was then extremely happy with my second attempt, until you pointed out how good it actually could look. BTW, the aluminium didn't seem to mark the flat sections of track when I re did mine so all good there. I won't redo mine as I don't have any spare tracks and would prefer not to outlay more money to get it looking that little better, but I'll certainly try do some tests with my offcuts (if they're long enough) or keep this information for my next build. As always, it's great to see how far we can take the process to improve the end result for all builders. I hope this does get read by a lot of future builders... Vern - it will be interesting to see your processes to see if they are better, easier, or similar to Aaron's. Cheers

Why do you say that? What's it missing? I thought all the previous discussions was that it was pretty good. It only seems to be missing the cylinders which aren't required until EIB, and in fact not at all if you're going ESB. Edit - or am I mixing up the rubies 'Rebels' and the rubies 'E-11'?

Welcome Eliza, however for all the black stuff you should head over to http://www.501stspecopsdet.net/

Nah, no waiting. Straight into it...... Heat Press with an offcut of flat aluminium (failed scope rails are good for something!) Flat And a couple of pics of them back on the blaster

As far as approval goes, you won't have a problem - chances are it won't be visible in any approval shots you need to submit. However I did the same, put a small piece in there to close the gap but it was painful, kept falling out when I took ithe bucket on and off. I only lasted one troop and had to order another piece. MUCH better now!

Seconded!

I've just had a look at all my tracks as they're sitting on the blaster - some have quite a defined raise at the bend, some almost nothing. I'll definitely fix them up a bit with a combination of more trimming and/or heating. Thanks all.

Wow. That one really is a long defined V.

It did take me a couple of reads to to work out the Vs and Bs, but I've gotcha now. I didn't think they looked that bad on the blaster, but now that you've bought up what to look out for, I'll have a closer look. Great idea Derrek! Another benefit of using a Aluminium pipe - I'll be able to heat and flatten on the pipe! Know any boobies Vern? As I mentioned, there weren't many examples in the build section that I could find, so a Tootorial would be handy. Know anyone who knows what they're doing?

Of course. Got something in mind?

You can't really see much. I guess as it's flush, there isn't anything to see.... I'll put that down as an advantage to using the thicker 3mm pipe. This the side profie of my track. You can see the bend section is only about 3mm long.

Did you find any differences Tino? LOL, that's a pretty obvious mess up that I normally pick up when proof reading before posting, and again after posting.... Proper pic now posted.... Sorry, I did skip over the actual installation, didn't I? I'm just going to glue them on (hence the rubber band at the moment). The tape is there with the number of track in order written on the back, so I know where they go when I'm ready to glue. On some of the very few threads out there that discuss T-Tracks, they talk about having a bend in the track so it will effectively hold on by itself. I initially did that but then 5-10mm of track was poking through on the inside. Even though you'll only just be able to see one or two of them, I didn't like that so opted to trim them flush. I'll try get a pic of that soon. Cheers

Haha, 3 grams out, sorry... . It would hardly feel like you're holding anything. Great for all day troops! And I checked, the Doopy was 1020g

The T-Tracks: I read your Steel Build thread Aaron, where you made the comment of it being quite soothing and relaxing. Not quite sure about that, but it was quite enjoyable - that is after I got past the "I'm so scared, just had to change my underwear" stage.... I went with Marv's T-Track, mainly because a mate gave me 5 pieces, from an old build, so I only had to buy 1 piece from Marv. Most of my track was waaaay long (for a DLT or something), so I had plenty or room for error. Propped up the heat gun on my table and heat away: This first attempt I did heat it for too long - does not like it and went a bit beyond repair - so I ended up cutting it off and starting again. Having the option to stuff up was nice. After I got it right, I simply inserted one end in the hole of the receiver and marked the centre of the hole for my next bend. Heated and bent over a block of wood at the mark Not sure where the 'accuracy' comes into it, but I didn't like the way the heating effect flared out the ends, like on the left hand track, so I filed/sanded it flush, like on the right hand pic. I much prefer the look now, anyway. And started working around the receiver.... Bought some wire for the spring, so that's the next thing to tackle....

Wow! If I'm right, that's about 663 grams. I think my Doopys full resin build was about 1.1kg. Shame you could never get them into Australia.

Nice work Keven. Not sure why I went up versus down for my bracket, but either way.... Yours looks great. Good work on the Hengstler solution!

We've discussed Doopy builds in another thread. Any chance of putting in on some scales to tell us exactly how much for comparison?

It was a sad day for us all. I had to check my other forums for a change.

Always room available for late comers! :happy and cheerful birthday: