I'm Batman

Thanks Curro. Appreciate the comments. Yeah, half the things on this blaster are just because "I know it's there". Trooping with it, displaying on the shelf, you can't really see the inner barrel. However, looking through the lower left hand holes in the receiver (where the bayonet lug is), you can see it. I painted mine a matt aluminium colour just to make it a little more contrasting and visible. I'm guessing you've got one of Aaron's cast barrels coming? Great piece. I made mine out of curtain rod material 1) because it was cheap 2) you probably wouldn't see much of it, and 3) Aaron hadn't had the idea of making his yet

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I think you're right Sly - probably time to re-evaluate the Blaster rule. The old style Hasbro's with the chunky grip/trigger section and about 4 inches too short looks nothing like an E-11, whereas the Rubies looks pretty good apart from the rounded T-tracks like you mentioned. Then there's the new Hasbro, WITHOUT that chunky section which isn't too bad, especially compared to the old Hasbro. Then the SDS blaster with a pop rivet as a front sight! And of course Doopy's, Phoenix, and a few others out there.... There is nothing currently in the CRL disallowing the Rubies, so a firm decision on what is allowed, why the Rubies is disallowed or what mods needs to be undertaken is required.

Still no answer here.... Well we allow Hasbro Blasters for EIB and after all the rubbish comments about SDS blasters, one of them has also just been approved for EIB. I would say, based on that all types of blasters as long as they resemble an E-11 should be allowed for EIB, but not Centurion. Or the other end and do away with them all completely and only allow a true representation of an E-11 for all advanced levels.

And the rail is black

As the others have said. Once you fix the holster you should be good to apply for Expert Infantry first, before Centurion I think the blaster is ok for EIB, but you'll probably need a charging handle on it for Centurion when you come back for that. Good luck!

Pics of how it should be then?

Looking good Tino! Might have to go back and re-do my bolt now.

Thanks Brian. Yes, better late than never..... Welcome Steve. An honour to receive your maiden post! Don't stress too much, just get stuck into it. And remember, it's only resin and plastic - any mistakes can generally be fixed with a bit of glue and putty. Good luck!

LOL! You inspired me

Yeah, I saw sleeping Luke shot. As you say most do certainly appear to be black. The one I posted is the main one that prompted me to ask... It's only 3 screws to take it off and paint.

Thanks Derek, Curro. For some reason the thought came into my head about the scope rail - that I hadn't painted it. I was just about to pull it off and spray some black on it, then I thought should it be painted? It's been a while since I was in research mode so I looked back through quite a few of the more popular build threads and everyone did paint theirs. But again, I thought should it be painted. Looking through the blue ray screen caps in the the reference section, most shots are quite dull and blurry, hard to make out the details, except this one: More than likely this is just the light reflecting off the flat surface, but could they be left raw silver, or were they painted black along with the rest of the blaster?

I can't believe it's been 10 months since I did my last update, well I guess I can. Anyway, I've started a new project so thought I should actually finish this one. Paint time! Parts laid out: Matt black laid down Gloss about to go on the grip Scope, I painted gloss black, then dry brushed brass onto it. The photos show it looking quite brassy, but I don't see that in real life. Another trick photography outcome... Whether the real brass is coming through with the flash/lighting? Dunno? Bolt is metallic grey with the strip a slapped together mix of aluminium/black. Aluminium around the trigger group and that's about it. T-tracks left black, as they come. Now I'll probably wait another 10 months before I decide to weather it. Please excuse my half finished slapped together stand too. Stay tuned for the next project....

Looking good bud! No issues amor-wise. Will be watching to see the DO's take on having a M77 (or similar) scope on the blaster instead of a 38 or 40.

Looking great Carl!

I'm about to finally paint this section of my blaster, probably tonight after work. It will look like... silver paint, probably.

Wow, looks fantastic! You sure you're not a surgeon?

I'm in the process of starting a make believe weapon, not based of a real gun, well sort of, sort of not, anyway.... Can't harm posting up here (I intend to) and if people are interested they will comment or reply.

Maybe place your trigger in there (just loosely) so you can see the whole combo together before fixing the guard. At least you have a real one there for comparison. Don't need reference pics when you got something like that so close

The Doopy guard is a bit bulky isn't it. Perhaps to make it less fragile.... Is yours a bit large?? Like the overall circumference of the circle. Or just a trick of the camera angle?

Could take a while though. Almost exactly one month from opening post to unboxing. Look out for the next progress step mid January

I wouldn't say easy, but it was Chris's I was talking about... http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32072-thrawns-guards-anh-e11-blaster-build/page-6

Pretty sure Brian is correct above - No counter or scope

What 'kit' are you putting together? Real scopes have angled prism's that deflect the light and therefore vision to the correct angles allowing you to see. Some people have hollowed out their resin scopes to allow sight/light all the way through, but unless you insert prism's or mirrors (I think someone did recently, can't remember who, sorry) you won't have direct line of sight for the reasons you mentioned.

If it's a deal breaker, maybe you should pm the DO's about it - Sly11 or Ukswrath. Although close, there are a number of discrepancies with the airsoft that may disqualify it. I'm not up on the finer details but I believe the grip is quite different, correct?