TK-32700

Good work so far! If you have much return edge, you can trim some of that. But I wouldn't shorten the biceps just jet. Like others have pointed out, it looks like the shoulder bells are the culprits, not the biceps themself. You want the bells almost touching the shoulder ridge. This will force them a bit higher, making more room for the biceps. (This also helps you if you are aiming for Centurion. The edge of the bells should lie mostly flush with the edge of the chest, with minimal gap.) Also thighten the shoulder bell straps holding the biceps. Depending on the sice and shape of the biceps, the straps should almost be in tension when not in use. This should force the biceps to ride higher and fit better. Some troopers also have an additional hidden strap inside the bells connecting to the top of the biceps. It makes it a bit more cumbersome to put on and take off, but will keep everything in place while trooping.

Wow, look at that shiny faceplate! You've made a good start. Keep it up!

Simon Hansen 32700 A4 Tony http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/32700-centurion.png

Proud trooper here! Thank you!

Name: Simon Hansen Legion ID: 32700 Garrison: Nordic GarrisonArmor: Troopermaster Helmet: Troopermaster Blaster: Trooperbay Expert Infantry Request Thread URL: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/43159-tk-32700-requesting-anh-stunt-eib-status-tm767/ Height: 179 cm Boots: TKboots Canvas Belt: Trooperbay Hand Plates = Sonnenschein handpainted latex Electronics: iComm w. Aker amp. Neal Seal Type: Darman w. zipper Holster: Trooperbay Full Body Front Full Body Back Full Left Left Side Detail Full Right Right Side Detail Butt/Kidney Detail Hand Plates Shoulder Bridge Back Shoulder Bridge Front Back/Chest Connection Thigh Pack Attachment Knee Plate Drop Box Back Cod and Butt Plate Attachment Interior Strapping Kidney Plate Notch Wrist side of forearms Helmet Front Helmet Right Helmet Left Helmet Back Hovi Mic Tip Detail Lens Color S-Trim Blaster Right Blaster Left Neck Seal Thermal Detonator Back Holster Attachment Ab Button Detail Link to photo album in case images doesn't show: https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZDtuJUYsvzDV3NnI3

Simon Hansen 32700 EIB A4 Tony http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/32700-eib.png

Thanks Tony! That's awesome to hear I've already started with the abdomen and chestplate. There is some slack in the strapping due to wear and tear, so I have tightened the chest straps and made the chest overlap more. The ab and kidney also aligns better, but I'm not 100 % happy yet. More work is needed. I will also look into your other suggestions. Not sure about the thighs, though. They have somehow shrunk since building them. I'm not sure how -- it is definitely not related to cake each Friday at work -- but they don't fit me as well as they used to.

Name: Simon Hansen Legion ID: 32700 Garrison: Nordic Garrison Armor: Troopermaster Helmet: Troopermaster Blaster: Trooperbay Height: 179 cm Boots: TKboots Canvas Belt: Trooperbay Electronics: iComm w. Aker amp. Neal Seal Type: Darman Holster: Trooperbay Link to photo album if images doesn't show: https://photos.app.goo.gl/hoJfvJ420TmpTYpH2

Requesting 501st access, please. TK 32700, Nordic Garrison http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=20024

TK 32700 reporting for duty!

I've spent two evenings on the tube stripes now. They were, as previously mentioned, a disaster. This is after some clean-up: New stencils would take too long, and I didn't dare to try freehand since this is more or less the first time I have used a paint brush in 25 years. So I took my time, armed with a toothpick, a box of cotton swabs and some paint thinner, and have cleaned up both sides. The stripes are a bit ugly up close, but if kept at an arms length away, you won't see it. And they are now the correct distance, one pencil width, from the cheek. Only the frown mesh remains, and the helmet should be done. Yes, this is the strips that came with the kit. I did not know of the 75 mm guideline. I figured that I liked the look with a front facing panel, and went ahead. I have now reread the CRL (something one should do often during a build!), and it does actually state: "The white control panel pad faces upwards". So thanks for the heads-up! Clips adjusted accordingly, without much hassle:

So, I redid the tube stripes, but had to use the old stencils. What a disaster. I don't know where to start with the clean up, let alone how. But I just have to figure out a way. While I work up some courage for that, I have assembled the Thermal Detonator. At first I was worried about bending the metal rods, but it turned out to be the easiest part of the TD. Some measurements, if anyone is interested: Screws: slotted pan head screws, head is 6 mm wide 2 mm high painted black, screw is 3 mm wide, total length 18 mm. Tube: 180 mm x 68 mm. End caps: 20 mm. Front face: 115 mm x 98 mm Metal rods: 210 mm x 27 mm

Thanks. I did use a pencil width, but I might have messed it up. I placed the stencils a pencil width away, not the stripes themselves. Rookie mistake. I had planned on doing clean-up tonight, but I might need to redo the stripes. I took a quick measurement. The stripes are 12 mm away, which is approx. two pencil-widths. What do you guys think? Should I clean them up and keep the stripes this way, or should I remove and redo?

No one has ever accused me of having steady hands, so the paint job was terrifying. The vocoder looks awful, but the rest is borderline OK. Done with all the grey and black details, and are working on the blue tube stripes. I used the "hand painted" stencils from Trooperbay for this. Can't wait to pull them off and see how it turned out! It looks like a couple of stripes have run a bit underneath, but that is nothing a toothpick and some paint thinner can't fix. Next, I'll tackle the Thermal Detonator.

Long week, working the late shift, but here is a image dump of some of the work since last update. I have glued the shoulder ridges. Also pictured is the white elastic and the snap plate. Split rivets set, 6 in the side, 1 in the crouch (not pictured here). The button plates on abdomen has also been glued:

36 holes later... I did a test with the elastics. Looked good. I have removed it for now. I still have to glue on the shoulder straps and fasten the split rivets, and it is a bit easier to work without having the entire thing in one piece.

It was a bit tricky, since the abdomen (and also most of the parts) isn't symmetrical. It is easy to be fooled by your own eyes -- this has happened several times during the build. The "measure twice, cut once" mantra is golden. I found the measurements in multiple build threads. I think it did line up pretty well, but I will keep it in mind when I do my final fitting of the belt.

Thanks guys! It is fun to work with the project again. I haven't done much today, but I did manage to hammer in a couple of more snaps without getting a complaint from the neighbours. By the way, I found a tiny little hammer at the local hardware store. It fits perfectly in the palm, and makes it easy to use in curved spaces -- like a Stormtrooper armour. And it is the cutest little thing! Both holes measures 15 mm from the bottom ridge to the center. Difficult to see due to poor lighting and bad angles (you really need more than two hands during a build like this!), but the center of the left snap (my right side) is 28 mm from the ridge, and the right snap (my left side) is 56 mm from the ridge. The distance between the two is 343 mm. "A single male snap on the top right corner of the ab plate is present." -- Check

Oh, right, the armor! Should really try to get it done soon. I've already got my tickets for EpVII. (First in line in my hometown, wohoo!) Well, I'd better get started again. So, procrastination, work and life in general has gotten in the way the last couple of months, but I have dusted off my workspace and started on the armor again. I finally dared to punch a hole in to install the snaps and rivets. My first victim was the butt plate. The first snap was easier than I thought, but it did not make the next snap any less scary. I hope... No, I WILL do some work over the weekend.

I had to change the DNS server on my WiFi router to Google DNS: 8.8.8.8. FISD now works like a charm on all my devices again.

I slept for only two hours last night due to a music festival in my neighborhood, so I did not get to be as productive as I hoped for this weekend. But I did a test run using tape as strapping. It was exciting to feel how the armour would sit on the body! Here I have marked where all the snaps, screws and brackets should go:

Thanks for asking, Tony! I haven't made much progess the last couple of weeks. I still have to figure out the balancing act between work and play. It seemed so easy during the vacation... I might do some work later this evening, though. If all goes well, I hope to have the internal strapping figured out soon.

Haha, only if it is made from Tauntaun skin. It sometimes gets a bit nippy here in the land of Hoth

Returning to work after the summer vacation, I feel like my build has come to a grinding halt. I have been working the early shift this week. Me being an evening chronotype, I do not function at all on days where I have to wake up before 6 in the morning. I haven't had any energy or mental capacity to do any work on the armour this week. I have the night shift next week, so I hope to have much work on the armour done during the day. I did manage to get some work done last weekend, most notably on the forearms. They were among the first parts that I worked on, so I was never happy with them. It felt like my arms had too much room. So I kept the parts in the freezer for 15 minutes, and it worked like a charm. The E6000 came off in no time. After I pulled them apart, I trimmed off 20 mm, and re-glued the cover strips. Much better fit! And I still have room to spare. I have some wiggle room in the biceps as well, but not nearly as much as the forearms. If I redo the biceps, I think it will suffice to take off 4-8 mm. Or I could just use foam padding. Finally, I have ordered a new pair of pants. Fingers crossed for no visible seams, like the last time. Fortunately, both these and the previous ones I bought were cheap. Unfortunately, I now get really weird suggestions on eBay.

Thanks! Yes, those notches came pre-made. TM is a beautiful armour, and I only hope I can do it justice. I'm going to paint the cap heads together with the side rivets. Speaking of, I don't think my Cupboard Knob Cap Rivet Basherâ„¢ will be much help with the split rivets. Will a hammer and screwdriver suffice, or should I start looking for a rivet tool?