T-Jay

Welcome to the ranks.

Oh, you will. Let's just wait until we can meet again in Leverkusen... A 'Pfefferschnitzel' is highly overdue. Thanks for mentioning Glen. Green and yellow sounds like a good combination, too. But to be honest, I already have something in mind for that last white spot on this helmet... Sounds like a great idea but in this case I am only building a helmet, not a full costume. This fact is limiting when it comes to integrate paint schemes and colors. However, I am still pretty confident...

No problem Jakob, you only took a two-years-break. Not sure about a source for the receiver tube but I might be able to help with the scope rails. Please check this thread and if you like item #35, send me a PM. Great to have you back and looking forward to your build progress...

Okay, the paint work is not yet completed, but at least I made some progress. Started with the Blast Shield and unlike the Mimban Trooper, I wanted it to have a different color. Had a weird idea for this... I was pretty happy with the result but now had to make a plan for the rest of the helmet. So I closely inspected the 501st registered costumes above. A classic white base seemed best but raised the question for a contrasting color. Blue and red are allocated to the Commander and the Incinerator. Would a dark orange work? Or would that look like a Stormtrooper version of Clone Commander Cody? Next I thought of green, which immediately brought up the idea for camouflage. Although not being very common in the Star Wars Universe, there are some examples for it: Kashyyyk Trooper, ARF Trooper, ARF Trooper Waxer, ARF Trooper Boil or the 41st Scout Battalion The idea behind this helmet is to turn the look a bit more towards a special soldier, equipped with many infrequent extras for his secret missions. A camouflage paint job would surely fit to that, so I researched the different types and considered, what I was able to do with the options I had. Okay, that test piece simply looked poor. Sorry, no camouflage here. Sticking to the special soldier theme, I then considered to go with NATO green only. The planned additions for this helmet will add a bit more colors later anyway. But I really liked how a different color on the mouth piece (see Incinerator Trooper and Sky Trooper) cause the impression of this being a separate and removable part. So I masked this area before spraying. The helmet appears a bit dark on the last photos because of the lighting. Thank you for reading.

Many thanks for your comments Glen @gmrhodes13 and Andrew @Sly11. Great to see you interested in such an uncommon idea. Thanks Brian. This helmet is meant to later look like some kind of spec ops trooper and I definitely want to add some serious battle damages plus weathering. Currently I am struggling with painting that thing and hope to update this thread soon...

Hello there Thought it was about time to start another 'with some modifications' - thread. As most people here, I simply love our Classic Stormtroopers: Since starting my research back in 2012, I also came across some very interesting variants from video games, comics and so on: (photos taken from the 501st CRLs) While each alteration and/or addition helped giving the armor a special appearance, the idea of being unbound and free of any CRL always appealed to me. With this MOC - helmet I will try to combine multiple modifications into a single helmet. Recently I got a suitable kit for this project and collected a few add-ons, so let's see what this turns into... Like with every other kit, my first step was a rough cut, before washing and drying it. Was not sure at all, if I could ever add such a big and symmetrical 3D-printed item (made from sturdy PETG) onto a wonky classic helmet. However, the top ends of the ears perfectly meet the Blast Shield with little gaps that I will later take care of. List of modifications so far: 1 - Blast Shield 2 - Black Interior Thank you for reading and stay tuned for the next updates.

Hello Jason and welcome here. Sounds like you have done some homework already and you seem to be on the best way. If in doubt, ask questions here or start your own build thread when the time comes. We love photos. Good luck on your Stormtrooper journey.

Great choice and happy waiting. In the meantime you could think about taking it to the higher levels... https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/95-expert-infantryman-program/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/66-fisd-centurion-program/

Just two days ago we welcomed Jennifer in the New Member Introductions and she then followed the advice to post pictures here. Now that she did so, we only have such bad news for her. What a shame. It sounds hard, but I agree with @justjoseph63. A new suit can be trimmed to much better fit your size. On the current suit, the chest armor even overlaps the belt. And this is just one of many, many things being wrong with this armor. While it might be okay for Halloween or Party events, it is by far not sufficient to meet the 501st criteria, even not for basic approval. So sorry.

The caps made from jewelry strap ends (A) look a bit off to me, while the decorative metal screw end caps (B, C & D) look like a perfect fit. Wouldn't worry about the tube material, as it gets painted anyway, like you already said. Go with what is easy to get and work with. Would suggest such a set of needle files for this (of course cheaper ones). The square and flat files will be good to use with the clear ABS tubes (better than AL or brass tubes). The capacitors, well, they simply look perfect. Grab a thin wire, heat one end with a lighter and push it into the melting plastic to get those wires for connecting to the base plate. Or pre-drill with a very small drill bit.

No worries, patience is the key in this hobby. Take your time...

Hi Jennifer and welcome to the FISD. Glen's link to the pre-approval area seems like the best way to start. With more photos at higher resolution some experts here will be able to help determine, if this armor needs corrections / adjustments and if it's worth to go through that.

If I get you right, Brian, only your master set of power cylinders will be metal, to then use these for making resin molds. Now, if you plan a separate base plate for the resin copies, then why not making this from 1mm ABS plastic sheets? Cheaper costs for material, for tooling, perfect to CA-glue with resin, easier to shape and bend, more lightweight and still strong enough to carry the few resin add-ons. I have 1mm ABS pieces in my Completion Sets and you can literally cut them with a pair of scissors. So much easier and faster than working with metal. Just my two cents.

Wow Brian! Seems like you are stepping into Andy's footprints here. Thought you are working on power cylinders from resin. Okay, of course it takes a precise master to make a mold. But if you put such effort into sourcing correctly shaped parts, then maybe you could consider offering metal versions as well... ?! (feeling the pressure? )

Will send you a PM when I am home again.

I love this weathering. Good luck Scott.

In case you want to add some weathering (still possible), you can check the 'Weathering Chapter' in the FISD E-11 Blaster Reference. Maybe it inspires you...

Very good, Colin, very good. Keeping my fingers crossed for your Centurion application...

That is correct. Your work on the hollowed resin scopes was absolutely outstanding! Thinking of a full blaster kit with the same high level of details makes me want to start right now. In other words: whenever you do this, I would be honored to build it. Guessing I do then need an acrylic glass case not just for the scope, but the whole blaster, he?

Wow Colin, very well done!!! Glad to see, there is nothing left to tell from that earlier flaw.

My Phoenix Props kits a few years ago all had a one-piece folding stock, which (as far as I know) was cast from the cleaned Sterling parts set that you have now. I always wanted to see (and have) a detailed resin folding stock. Yeah, it might break - but I would take that risk.

Welcome to the ranks, Ian. Now that you mention it, these could sit a bit closer to the shoulder bridge. Maybe you can reach this by shortening the strap. To keep your lower legs from rotating, you can use velcro between boots and shins.

Great work, Greg. Glad to hear you were able to get all issues with the electronics fixed. Can't tell how it sounds, but it LOOKS really good. The only thing I noticed is the bayonet lug. Seems it needs to get rotated by 90 degrees: For the weathering, maybe Chapter #29 of the FISD E-11 Blaster Reference will inspire you and help you with that...

Good idea with the additional rubber washer. 'Poor man's fiberglass' (CA glue and a piece from an old T-shirt) works very well to reinforce the thin material around the mic tips. Oh and, great posting (as always )

Good luck, Scott. Keeping fingers crossed for you. Even with primer, I experienced the same after some events. The bottom of the handle simply is a prominent part of the E-11 and I had to retouch this area several times...