T-Jay

Yes, skip the coiled wires. Not visible in the movie. But how about some light weathering, a gloss pistol grip and modification of the magazine's end cap (the little release knob & angled corners)? Sorry, please don't get me wrong. Your blaster is really looking okay. Just thought about mentioning a few (not mandatory) things which could make it look even better... Most important thing: have fun with it.

Wow Aaron, did not expect that you've got enough space for two 9V batteries! Sorry to hear it didn't work with one. The spec sheet you posted was exactly the information I was looking for to share here but had no luck finding it. In case you really want to go for a "shots fired" counter, don't forget to block the reset button . Good luck for this mod.

Hey Aaron, very nice video! It remindes me of the day when I received and tested my own counter. Loved the click, click, click ... Not sure if you really need 15 V or more. Have you tested this? Mine also worked with a standard 9V battery (which would eventually fit into the magazine slot?!), but for sure our counters are different...

Hey, thank you all for your latest comments. Wow, some of you had answered really fast. @ Steve (gazmosis): no, no, no - my paint job on that magazine is simple. The really "mind blowing" work was done by yourself on your magazine. That really looks like steel!!! @ Germain (The5thHorseman): to be honest, I was not aware that somebody else had shown something like this before. But that nice little jar of pigments would have saved me a lot of dirt to get the same result. Correct, the missing 5% are the power cylinders, white letters in the scope and the front sight pin. That'll take some time... @ Tim (Dark CMF): yes, the only problem is: I am not sure, if the improvement with the rust makes it more screen accurate. Don't think so, but it definitely makes it more realistic when holding it in hands and viewing on close distance @ Brian (TrainWreck): the variable use of rust powder provided the option to give some different appearances. For example: the new magazine was weathered only with the Humbrol 113 (dry brushed). A bit of the powder was used at the rear sight, the magazine port and the pistol grip. And even more rust powder got used in the hollows of the end cap. So not all rust spots look the same and that was my intention. @ Ian (Sith Lord): thanks man. Yes I can definitely recommend to Steve's magazine! Go for it! You've seen the great difference in my comparison shots. Its just so much better... @ Aaron (usaeatt2): man, you're scaring me! You'll have to show us that video - otherwise it didn't happen... Regarding this thread: just trying to keep the appearance of my updates in the familiar optic, that's all. Thanks for paying attention to this detail

Update #19 - now 95% complete Some issues were still open from the last update. Three have now been done: - other black paint on T-tracks - new magazine from gazmosis - weathering with real rust Chose Tamiya XF-1 to give the T-tracks a slightly different appearance, but this got very minor. As you can see, it was not worth the money or the time to do this... Then Steve's magazine arrived and I have to say, this is a very fine piece of art! Thought about hollowing out the port so that it could be inserted in full size, but I felt this to be too risky on an already mounted and painted part. So I just cut it off. Some comparison shots. Due to the earlier done enlargement of my old magazine, the new one matched perfectly. Added silver paint, wax masking, flat black and weathering. Then I took some little chunks of real rust and crumbled them down to fine rust powder. A little bit of Humbrol's brown 113 got added in some places and while the paint was still drying, the rust powder got brushed onto the colour. Outdoor pictures with the new magazine and some of the rust weathering: Had fun to upload some news again . What do you think about the real rust?

Yes, I think Darth Chridan would be shocked if somebody says, his latest Bapty build is not screen used. Germain's pictures prove this. To my understanding Ronny's confusion was caused by a photo of that screen used versions in Tunisia, the Bapty.

@ Vern (TK Bondservnt 2392) and Aaron (usaeatt2): hi guys and thank you very much for letting me know. I fully appreciate your inputs. Okay, the issue with the end cap lock has just been explained perfectly by Aaron's nice video (thanks man, please let it be visible in future ). And you two metal-masters have to bear in mind this is a resin version with an inflexible lock! The little gap is required to get the end cap removed, as there is no way to push that lock on a resin blaster . Before buying the counter I was aware of the problem with the red numbers but wasn't willing to wait and pay that price 4x just to get a correct one (it also misses the screw on top of the rear cover). As the build moved on, I sensitized for the level of details and left it as the build was meant to stay at low cost. If I find a correct one for a good price one day, it might get changed... As discussed in posts #57 to #63, all the wrong details in the Doopy's magazine caused me to order Steve's resin cast. So these issues will all get fixed in one go...

Some very talented skills for the work with metal Excited to see paint on that beauty...

Always nice to see pictures of a real demilled Sterling. I am surprised about the inner bolt to have the same colour all over without visible scratches from moving. The magazine port looks slightly bended. Or is that an optical illusion? Germain, why haven't you seen this? (just kiddin ) This will become a very interesting build...

Hello there. I was away for a week and there are still some answers to give @ Germain (The5thHorseman): helmet, holster and belt in the last pictures are parts of a full TK ANH Stunt from Paul. Didn't dare to build this holy kit on my own, so I decided to use the waiting time for this resin E-11. Yes, the inner bolt totally changed its appearance just with the washing. Was surprised about that, too. But it looks much better now. Gunmetal grey was not a good choice for that. @ Daniel (DarthChridan): gazmosis recently called this blaster "a thing of beauty". Now you call me "a beast" -> the beauty and the beast? Hey, that brings us back to Disney Let's all hope they'll make Episode VII better than the prequels... I'm so scared for the next 18 months... @ Aaron (usaeatt2): thanks Aaron! Glad to hear this from somebody, who owns a "real Sterling" (your conversion build is simply: wow!) This E-11 is meant to be a display piece in the hands of an ANH stunt mannequin, so there are no plans for it to leave the house - except a short visit in a bank @ Brian (TrainWreck): thank you very much! I really like your resin scope conversion . Things like that make me think about a second build... @ Tim (Dark CMF): hey man, thanks for your kind words (one more time ). My English and my online translator are not sufficient to thank you in different words, so I just say: thank you and you know I really mean it.

Hey Tim Very, very good looking! I like the fact you didn't completely fill the letters - that makes it look a bit used and old. Perfect

Update #18 - daylight pictures Scope lenses got installed and mounting screws on folding stock were filled. Did some washing and took pictures in direct sunlight and indoor. Some full views: Due to reflections from the sunlight I also made a few indoor pictures: Then the big brown box came into the game. Ouhh, I like that mixed smell of E6000, ABS plastic and all the other components in there... And my favourite: (detailed unboxing will follow in a separate thread) During the last weeks, I had the option to speed up with this build - which has been a lot of fun. I permanently had this blaster in mind and worked on it every day (or at least on the online updates ). It really surprised me, how deep I got into all this while running that build. And the feedback from you all pushed me to modify things, which were not on my list when I started. So I have to say "Thank you" again to everybody who corrected, encouraged or challenged me. Your feedback definitely had influence on the final result! Now I have to slow down a bit, because serious things in private life require some attention. But I promise to continue the work. It may look quite complete, but there are still a few things on the list: - front aim pin (yes, it is missing) - white letters at the scope - paint T-tracks with different flat black - new replacement magazine (awaiting delivery) - final weathering (with real rust ) - and the worst of all: the power cylinders So a few updates will follow. But for now I wish you and your families a nice Easter weekend. Frohe Ostern. Joyeuses Pâques.

@ Brian (ninusyim), Ian (Sith Lord) and Sergiu (jkno): uiih, thank you all. But - well, the build isn't completed yet . The last update only shows the assembling, but there are still some things to do! (see end of next update) @ Steve (gazmosis): wow, to hear this from somebody like YOU makes me proud. Thank you very much, man! @ MTK: thanks for your compliment, but in that case you must have somehow missed Steve's and Tim's builds. You should definitely have a look at these two threads as well. @ Germain (The5thHorseman): thanks mate . I didn't like that grey-green paint on the inner bolt but that gunmetal grey was all I found . And as Steve described in his build: it looks some kind of blue. I hope to get this fixed with "washings" to these parts... Regarding power cylinders: yesterday I read Andy's brilliant research with the result, that I now don't like the Doopy's cylinders any more . But I am still thinking of ways to modify it, so that it will be added in some later update. The magazine hasn't arrived so far and will also be added later...

Wow Aaron! Unbelievable work so far. And you are very fast. If you continue on this speed, the blaster will be finished before your vacation week ends . How about reducing the welding marks on the rear end just to the bottom side? You would get a cleaned surface and could still prove it is your blaster by turning it upside down. According to my information the weight of the completed build (including real scope and counter) will be somewhere about 5kg / 10-11 pounds (lb). You'll be getting some long arms trooping with that and I wouldn't wonder if you start a Doopy's kit a few weeks later . Whatever you do, just continue exactly as you started. It is a pleasure reading this build

Update #17 - the assembly (90% complete) The end is near. Everything is painted. Weathering and washing will be completed stepwise. Now time has come to start assembling! It must have been that feeling, Steve recently described in his build. Wow, I've waited for that moment so long - and some of you as well . So, here are the pictures: Some full views so far (every 2nd picture with flashlight). Will try to get you some daylight photos this weekend .

Update #16 - last paint work As getting closer to the assembly, the Hengstler counter still had to be painted. First covered the plastic part (also on the inside), then sprayed with matt black (can #4). Tape covered the number rolls and the induction coil. Then counter and bracket were painted in different black (can #5), the plastic connector on the front stayed like it was and the reset button received the gloss black (can #7). Unbelievable: no colour difference between the 15 years old can #5 and the new RAL 9005 from can #4 . The idea to give these parts a slightly different appearance didn't work. Anyway, now it is more screen-accurate... Carefully added minimal weathering. Alright, next time the parts will be put together... (woah, I am so excited )

@ Germain (The5thHorseman): had planned to do some additional weathering after the assembly, because in some places it makes sense to have all parts mounted for that. @ Brian (ninusyim): thanks for stating that. Was not aware of this green frog tape and just used what I found at home... Good to know, what to better use...

Update #15 - the grip The grip caused me some headaches as of what to paint 1st, 2nd and so on. Started with the silver on the trigger area (sorry, no photo) and then precisely covered it with tape. Next was the gloss black from can #7. It took a lot more than 24 hrs to dry. Now also the gloss black grip got covered to add the hammered paint and the matt black on the sides. Removed the tape and found some problems. Paint was under the masking and some silver paint was taken away by the covering tape. Better dab the tape on some textiles (to reduce adhesion) before applying it on a painted surface. Ja, ja, ja ... These details got fixed within a few minutes, so no big issue and the inner section received a different colour (gun metal grey). Please feel free to leave any comments and critics (steady Germain ) while I work on the next update...

@ Tim, Vern, Brian & Germain: hey guys , I am really glad to see you like it. Did not expect my first weathering to be such a fun. Man, this could possibly lead to another build...

Ouh Tim, I'm sorry to hear about the issue with the hex screw and I fully trust in your skills to fix this! I keep fingers crossed and I am sure, nobody will notice anything of this in the finished blaster.

Update #14 - some weathering & last paint layer 24 hrs after painting I did sandpaper-weathering in some places and covered it with the reliable candle wax. Unmasked the T-tracks and found two more gaps which had to get filled with "green stuff" before adding the black paint. Then the last layer (can #4) covered all of the hammered effect, as the original guns had been painted black. The structure remained, only the colour changed. This paint was also easy to handle (started with details before painting the rest). It took 24 hrs to fully dry, in addition to layer 3 this means a total drying time of at least two days! Then I removed the wax and completed the weathering (with sandpaper and Humbrol Metal Cote). Some small parts were sticked on wires to support painting and drying. Hm, electric light seems to be a bad choice when it comes to the details of weathering. Have to get some photos with daylight when the blaster is finished... Side note: If anybody wants to create the pure Sterling look (without the black finish from the StarWars props), can #4 should be skipped or much better: use crinkle paint instead of the hammered effect.

@ Steve (gazmosis) and Ian (Sith Lord): yes I also have that feeling, the DoopyDoo's kits might never be the same again C'mon Ian, get it on. Many threads in this forum can be used as a guide and nobody expects you to do it exactly as somebody else. For example I like the original folding stock from Steve and Tim very much, but it makes no sense in my build, as I have to keep the weight low for the mannequin . The results will always be different as the build depends on the preferences of the maker... @ Germain (The5thHorseman): Eagle-eye is back! One day I had some "green stuff" left over and thought it would be a nice idea to fill the gap in front of the scope rail, so it doesn't look like plugged into a hole where it doesn't belong.

Wow, Steve!!! That magazine finish is so and the colour on the inner bolt looks so damn real. And all the rest... I am out of words, man. You have done such a good work on this kit and I somehow feel a bit sad that it is completed now, because we won't get your nice updates on this fabulous build any more . Okay, this had to happen one day, but I will definitely miss it. Therefore I also think this topic should be pinned as a reference to others! That would be a deserved honor.

Update #13 - main paintwork Prepared parts for next step. Covered everything, which should NOT get the structured surface! Then added the 3rd layer from can #3 (anthracite hammered effect) to all parts from the original guns (except magazine body, all handle parts and trigger area) and dabbed it with toilette paper. That paint has a slight brownish shade which makes it perfect for the blasters and it is easy to handle. Wait - am I going totally crazy now, or did I just see a Stormtrooper-face looking at me??? Huh okay, I am not daydreaming. Best regards to all 501st members out there Sprayed the small parts first and then the rest. Took 24 hrs to fully dry (touch-dry after 1hr). More news to come soon. Thanks for reading and following Any comments and critics are welcome.

Wow, what a nice upgrade . Really! 'Wanna have' but I must keep the weight low on mine as it will be held by a mannequin one day... Anyway, do you plan painting the rest to match the folding stock (like Steve did), or will you paint it all over? Waiting to see it all finished.........................................