T-Jay

Hey Art, pretty nice progress Just wondered about the shape and size of your re-done ejection port. Compared to the original it somehow looks a bit off. Not sure on that, could just be the angle of the picture. However, you got the real thing next to you, so you can measure to double check... Thanks for showing this comparison picture (meaning this honestly). Will definitely need to find a thicker ring to be added into future completion sets... What is that steel ring's diameter? 4mm?

Enjoy your time, Steve On a side note, this thread brings up a question: would it be possible to add something like "automatic out of office reply" to the forum software? - especially thinking of people with "for sale" threads. So far, all they can do is to edit the "What's on your mind?" subject in the profile, but only a few members might notice that. The majority will keep wondering, why their PMs aren't answered. Just an idea... Again, have a good time Steve

The camera will distract from your armor in any way, but what about mounting it somewhere onto (or under) your blaster? Then you would have to option to switch it on and off and "aim" for what you want to catch. Depending on how you hold the blaster and how you move, the camera could be hidden (partially). Just an idea...

Hey Phil, the blaster is looking good. Was it wrapped in air bubble foil? Folding stock and magazine do like it was... Regarding the spring: You might want to have a look at the completion sets. There you will find much more things to upgrade your blaster...

Hi Sebastien, welcome to the FISD The DoopDoo's kit you've found is not a bad choice and will be available again as time goes by. You can register yourself to receive a message when these are in stock again. Although I ran a DoopyDoo's build myself, I would meanwhile strongly suggest to go for the Phoenix Props kit from Derrek (here on the FISD). Seems to be the better choice..

Never tired of seeing well made fan films... ...and that is really a good one!

(double posting)

Hi Ben, I am not familiar with the type of plastics, comming out of a 3D printer, but do you think these parts would still be flexible enough to be worn without breaking? If the armor isn't flexible, you can hardly troop in it as it will break. Just a thought...

Lol. Nice story. You might want to study some reference pictures from real Sterlings while running your build Your last picture of the repaired charging handle shows an M19 scope, while earlier pictures had the M38 in the background. Where did this come from? Keep the pictures coming. It's fun following...

A very interesting start. Definitely worth clicking the Follow-button! May I ask how thick your aluminum sheets are? Will you use different thickness for individual parts?

It's been a while... Time for a new picture. Just for fun (# 3) Seems like the Emperor has recently infiltrated the FISD to see, what his troopers are doing here. He does not look pleased...

Cool armor + nice background + good photographer = stunning pictures

Would suggest to remove the return edges on the forearms. Can your shins be lowered a bit? (you have no visible gap between upper and lower leg) Can upper and lower legs get trimmed to be more tight? (as Bone suggested) Looks like there is a lot of material left under the cover stripes...

Shows us, show us! Let's all see what you do with it

Hey Steve, where did you find this? Can we be sure this is really old? Or has it possibly been made to look old? A fantastic picture anyway!

Not saying green stuff is the best solution (especially as I haven't used anything else so far) but I had absolutely no problems with it. Even for very tiny details (like on my power cylinders where I had a gap between the main cylinder and an end cap) it worked fine. Of course this also depends on the builder's preferences...

Hey Brian, nice to see some progress from you again. Outstanding work on the end cap lock. Didn't expect you to go THAT far into detail and it now looks like the real part. Wow! Regarding the knurling pattern: you've heated the tool and pressed it onto the plastic. To get a deeper imprint I would suggest doing it the other way: warming the plastic part (or both). However, incredible work on that part and thanks again for your permission to use one of your photos in my completion sets sales thread. Thought an ideal way for these kits would be a combination of the T-shaped resin part with an aluminum channel. Why building another front sight? You have the best I've seen!

And the guy didn't even notice that. Just imagine him sitting at home, checking his video record and seeing this...

Told you it will look cool Very good work done. Really liking the inside view on the last picture!

8 months old but I still enjoy watching this because it seems so real...

Current reviews do look quite positive so far... I am surprised

Good luck on this one, Tim. I keep fingers crossed for you...