T-Jay

Yellowing plastic is a point, which I am very concerned about at TK armors. Fortunately it only appears on the covers stripes and no vac-formed armor parts. In your case it seems like the maker had used some different kind of plastic sheet to make these cover stripes from. That is the only explanation for having nothing else gone yellowing. If your able to remove the affected stripes, you could replace them with new ones. If you can't removed them, I would stick with Patrick's plan and paint them - although finding an exactly matching color might become a problem...

Brian, very sorry to hear this, man. Sounds like not the silver paint is the problem, but the black one. Doesn't seem to be good on any surface. Is the black spray paint also from Tamiya (TS6, TS14, TS29, TS40)? Is the silver you used TS17? Did you use a plastic primer for the resin parts before adding the first color? Is there any indication of an expiry date on your spray cans? Do you have any other black spray paint available to test on a leftover part?

Your biceps parts will be made of 2 halves with cover stripes at their joints. Have a look inside the biceps. If there is enough material left under the cover strip, you can "open" the biceps and re-glue it with a bit more space for your arm. This will of course be limited. For more, you will have to add that extra piece of plastic.

Major differences: - Stunt has flat eye lenses, hero has bubble lenses. - Stunt has bigger frown (mouth/nose) than hero. - Hero has a deeper brow, very close to the eyes. When carefully studying Stormtrooper pictures, you will soon find out, these variations make then have different "faces". But none is better than the other. While the heros were used for close-ups with the cameras, the stunts were made for the background. But that all got mixed up very often. You'll even find screen shots with a stunt and a hero next to each other. In the end its fully up to your personal taste...

Would suggest to place it on (or under) your blaster, instead of the armor. This way you can "aim" for things you want to catch and it doesn't distract from the armor.

Compared with the classic E-11, some parts have been moved to the other side. Due to moving the magazine and magazine well to the opposite side, I doubt real Sterlings can be used for a conversion any longer. The same can be said for softair guns or paintball guns (or whatever has been made to look like a real Sterling). It won't work anymore and at the same time it might make life a bit easier for us, as we don't have any risk of shipping deactivated firearms across the world and struggle about conflicts with the law just for our hobby. However, the mirrored appearance of the TFA blaster will (in my opinion) mainly lead to resin builds and 3D-prints. Yes, after a while somebody will surely offer an aluminum version, but the majority of builds will be resin or scratch builds (unless Disney might offer a licensed kit for us). And who knows, maybe I have to offer a different type Completion Sets, specifically designed for the TFA blaster...

Hi Matt, would say it also depends a bit on what type of trooper you are planning to build. RS for example recommends to choose PVC when people order their "Move Along" sandtrooper helmet. ABS seems to be a good choice for the cleaner armors and some makers even offer different types of ABS (like standard or acrylic capped - for a more glossy look) When I struggled with that decision, it was very useful to actually see some armors in real. My intention was to build a clean white trooper, but when I saw one of the glossy versions, it appeared to me as being a bit too much. In the end I took the standard ABS (as the screen used suits had) and here you can see, how it looks (added some light weathering later) http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28549-fully-finished-anh-stunt-tk-15mm-abs-from-troopermaster-with-some-modifications/

Hi Mathew, have you already seen this? http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/album/40-sterling-l2a3-mk-4/ Hope this helps...

Well, actually I only mentioned to keep the T-tracks and the grip without silver weathering, as these are not made of metal. But your 2nd weathering looks more realistic than the first one did. Might be an idea to dry-brush some silver to heavily stressed areas/parts of the gun like front sight guard, end cap, muzzle and folding stock butt.

Good job on the frown! Regarding the brow: Depending on what specific type of stormtrooper you build, you can check the "Photo References - Gallery" (link is on top of this page) for screen shots. On my trooper I did it like this: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28549-fully-finished-anh-stunt-tk-15mm-abs-from-troopermaster-with-some-modifications/

A far more detailed thread of the same build has been posted here on the FISD already: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31068-clints-build-thread-tk-61281/ But that is the TFA armor and it is much more work to build this than the classic TK armor. The classic troopers don't need any bondo at the joints and no white paint.

Hi Chris and welcome to the FISD. Here is a link to the ANH Stunt frown reference. Would suggest to enlarge the openings a bit. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/album/36-helmet-frown-a-new-hope-stunt/ Regarding the cut in your cap: just add the brow and you'll see where it ends in the traps. A deeper cut allows the brow to be a bit longer.

Hi Tristan and welcome to the white zone. A thread about this armor has recently been started - see here and have fun...

That depends on the type of counter. The reset button in a real working counter can be disabled by blocking its movement. But on this resin counter here it looks like the button might just get glued in. John will surely tell us...

You had asked for instructions on how to shape and polish that Plexiglas window. This is how Steve (gazmosis) did it: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26430-doopy-buildreal-sterling-folding-stock/page-3 Do you plan to glue the reset button into the counter?

No close up pictures from the power cylinders and the Hengstler counter - everybody who is familiar with E-11 knows these details are important. But they are missing. Must be a reason for it...

Depending on the head size/shape it might be useful to vary with the padding from thick, to medium or thin. My TM bucket had the foam star padding. It lifted the helmet too far away from my shoulders, so I used a much thinner foam. Variations in foam placement (towards front or rear) can affect the position of the helmet on your head. Hope this helped...

Steve and Vern, I am very sorry to hear such bad news from you both. Can only imagine how it felt to "loose" this event, you waited for so long. Might just be a little consolation, but on youtube there are 4 videos with livestreams from each of those four days (a lot of hours in total). I was quite happy about that, as I had no chance to visit C7. Maybe this compensates your situation a bit...

Nice work, Ruben. The weathering on that scope indeed looks so real! Maybe you can add a small ring (of plastic or green stuff) to the front lense, to simulate the smaller 10mm lense from the original scope. But even if you don't do this, it will still look like the real thing

Hey John, nice to see your latest progress. Just one question: did you use countersunk screws for the folding stock hinge? The angle in that photo doesn't answer that, so I assumed that must have been the reason for leaving resin in the close surrounding area.

Nope, these are incorrect. If you look very closely, you can spot a long seam on top of the boot. It's hardly visible on this photo, but better on the bigger picture in the online offer... Sorry, but I think these boots will cause some problems...

Hey Ruben, thanks for the kudos. Nice to see you've separated your work on the blaster and started this thread for it. Keep the pictures coming. Seems like we are going to see some fancy mods...

Hey John, its been a while Latest progress looks good. Keep the pictures comming...

Hi Bob, to me, this site seems to be outdated as it states Copyright © 2006 and even Copyright © 2002 at the bottom. Also the total membership is given with 951 persons. I think you are better up with this one here, the FISD. Just go to -> Weapons Locker -> BlasTech E11 and select your favorite sub section. Start your build thread and you will always have people online here to answer your questions. Hope that helped a bit...

Would really appreciate some sharp pictures of the new blaster - especially the "empty" side which is held towards the body. And a close-up of the T-track section would be great...