T-Jay

Chris, thanks for double checking. I contacted Dennis (tr00per) and he immediately helped. A slightly altered version of his photo got added to chapter #31 (Measurements). Thanks Brian. Just trying to realize the full potential of this blaster kit

Damn - that was fast

Incredible find - and very interesting: he says his tracks are asymmetrical...

Thanks very much Ian If you contact Derrek (Dday) he will surely help you with that. Aaron, thanks for your kind words and confirmation on the D-shape. Your front muzzle with rolled edge is just WOW As discussed in our PMs, I would love to introduce one in this build. Thanks Brian. To hollow the end cap (for placement of the ring holder) I definitely used the wrong tools. But that was all I had available. Maybe someday we get a resin copy of an end cap with that indentation – or with the ring holder attached… Aaron? Derrek? Thanks Dan. I try to keep it like this through all the updates... Ehm, is that a good or bad sign? Chris, this was recently posted by Dennis (tr00per) and should help to answer your question.

Update #09 - The end (cap) is near As mentioned last time, it goes on with the external resin parts. Tackling this build from back to front, today’s progress is about the ring holder, end cap and tube adapter. Would have been easier to drill those 3 holes into the aluminum receiver BEFORE adding the fragile resin adapter for the end cap… (although not being sure, if they are D-shaped or circular). Had more work on these few parts than expected. But I guess, that‘s what this hobby is all about. So… Thanks for reading.

The open bolt already is my personal favorite modification on this build. Wondering how many people will think it is a real Sterling with rounds… Mike, thanks for doing some research on the voltage and your PM about that. Indeed, placement in the pistol grip is something I thought about, but hard to reach for battery replacement. Compared with 3x AAA batteries, the 2 coin batteries might not last very long. For this build I will continue with the 3x 1,5 V AAA batteries and I am very sure, Mike will soon run an awesome build. He mentioned an interesting idea in his last PM…

Good enough for basic approval and (as recently seen) also for higher levels - although it has some inaccuracies. If you need a blaster "out of the box" that one is okay. If you have some build skills, a resin kit might be much more interesting for you...

Whaaaaat??? May I ask, where this information does come from?

Easiest way might be to re-use some of your black acrylic plastic pieces, which you bought for the front sight block (very nice work by the way ). You only have to decide if you replicate the extractor in the slotted or the solid version. Not sure from top of my head but I think it was slotted on replicas (like Fazakerly) and solid on original Sterlings. Again, not 100% sure. Others might know...

Read here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/tutorials/article/48-posting-images-in-threads-2015/

This is an outstanding thread in the history of the FISD. Never before seen so many entries for - well, almost nothing. NOW with the first brown boxes arriving, this totally changes - and the thread explodes even more. But we finally get facts and photos to stop the rumors. I fully understand everybody's exitement and impatience, but can't see reasons to post "I ordered in month X and did not get anything yet". It has been said so many times: patience is the key in this hobby - even for Anovos customers . Don't worry, sooner or later everybody will surely get what has been paid for. A thing that I am much more worrying about, is to possibly see this suit causing something like a separation within the FISD. Why that? Many people jumped on the train for the Anovos OT TK. A lot of them are new to this hobby and some might start to build without doing enough research in advance. Mistakes will happen and in the heads of some long-established troopers, there might be a prejudice like "another inexperienced noob with that Anovos armor". And the fact of creating the "Anovos Stormtrooper Kit Building Group" on facebook (which was surely meant to help), could also be taken as a step towards such a separation. Please: don't let that happen! No matter if you like this kit or not, let's keep in mind it looks not bad, it brought many new members to the Star Wars costuming scene - and so with to the FISD. Posting that comment in this highly frequented thread, feels like walking through a minefield. So please don't get me wrong. So far I like what has been shown on the pictures and I think the people will get a good armor for that price. The FISD will grow, as will the 501st Legion - and that is something good, right?! Have fun with your builds. And if you are still waiting for BBB, enjoy it - that is a part of this game.

Update #08 - Finger on the trigger Now that the trigger was in place, it got time to add a micro switch behind it. This had been taken from the electronics in the Disney blaster. The short video below gives an impression of its light and sound effects, that I want to implant into this E-11. Tested the micro switch in the trigger group (worked fine) and thought about placement of the other components. The original battery housing was no option, something else had to be found… To place the batteries in a movable part, obviously causes problems with the wiring. A few days I tried various ideas of what to install where best – without finding a satisfying way. The movable bolt and invisible electronics are no problem - if each modification is in a separate blaster. The real challange with this build is to COMBINE both mods. The nice screen caps from Dennis (Tr00per) prove, the opened ejector port is screen accurate. That made me rethink it all and I finally decided to permanently install the bolt in that backward position. This might be polarizing for some people, but this way it - 1 - allows proper wiring (as the part won‘t move anywhere) 2 - keeps the bullets and magazine visible at any time 3 - and is still screen accurate! So with a heavy heart I replaced the cup spring with the battery container. Well, at least it has been shown in earlier postings. And who knows, maybe this isn‘t the last blaster I build… However, the wiring makes more sense at a later stage in this build, so the next updates are going to cover work on the external resin parts. While doing this, there will be enough time to think about this… Have a nice weekend everybody

This has been done the same way as the “Table Of Contents” in our blaster reference thread. Every row in that list is linked to the specific posting. Ehm wait, we are on the dark side here, aren’t we? Best regards to L.A.

For easier navigation to individual build entries, I just added an interactive “table of contents” at the end of the first posting from this thread. It grows with every new update and also contains links to subsequent "Corrective Actions" (if there were some). This hopefully helps other people to not make the same mistakes and immediately find the corrections.

Hi Ben, not sure if it is exactly what you are looking for, but you might find help in chapters #28 and #29...

To be honest Sean, this thread currently requires more time on the keyboards than on the work bench. Thank you very much, Mike. There will surely be other people soon with great ideas and better builds – maybe your next one… For a moment I thought about accepting that challenge and rework it, but then lazily decided to leave this up to Mike (Twnbrother) For the rotary switch: this is exactly what I have in mind Really had to persuade myself to hollow that grip for inserting the switch. Currently all I can do is hoping it will work as planned Thanks Derrek. The majority of people might not go that far, but could still use this as help for their own builds. Thank you for offering this blaster kit with such great details. There is currently no better kit I could think of for doing this build.

Corrective Actions on bolt colors: As promised in entry #41, here are the painting corrections to better match the original.

Update #07 - Get a grip This mounting method is perfect for a static build. But in this case, I had to find a different way to securely connect the grip to the receiver tube. Looks a bit rough at the moment. Maybe that changes after painting... Thanks for any critics and comments.

Thanks for your invitation. The same goes for you: if you make it to Germany, we should meet. Instead of copying my build, I am sure you will put yours to the next level – and I can’t wait to see that. Brian, without the dovetail in your receiver, it should be possible to place the barrel and the muzzle exactly where they are supposed to be. Then you could cut off the overlength and recreate the rounded front with your rotary tool. Just an idea... Maybe I should slow down this build, so Mike and me could soon run this in parallel

Hi Lou, just re-read this build (was searching for a specific information) and found your comment: Well, have a look here ...

Hi Michael, had seen these a while ago and recently visited this shop, while being on a business trip in Hamburg. Unfortunately they did not want to open such a box for closer inspection. But indeed, this price for a replica made from metal is really good. Please post pictures here in this thread once you get it. Really curious on this...

Corrective Actions on front muzzle: This workaround does of course not remove the overlength of the CNC receiver, but it fixes the initial spacing issue with the inner barrel. Yes, the front muzzle is now thicker - but that is just on the inside where nobody can later see this. Good enough for me.

Well Brian, in this case Aaron and Derrek are the true masters. I only combined and installed the parts. As discussed in our private messages, that crescent shaped "block" inside the muzzle sits above the barrel and therefore has no effect on the spacing issue. Anyway - with that latest reference photo, you (again) managed to massively support this build. Thank you very much! You should get a nick name like “Combat Photographer” or something The longer CNC receiver clearly caused the placement issue for that inner barrel and I soon post a workaround to fix this. Thank you very much, Sergiu. Happy to have “Dracula’s neighbor” stopping by Pardon? On your current profile picture you already look grown-up, Dan Or is that not you? Thank you very much, Michael. I am indeed happy about the FISD responding so positive to this build. Thanks Ian. Glad to see you like it. This build is truly dedicated to the original Sterling and will later cover the additions for the E-11 like it was used in the movie… Like mentioned in our email conversation, this probably has never been done before. So, things like that can happen. The good news is I soon post a way to fix it and this might help other builders with the same kit and add-on parts. For the pipe correction, I would just go the easy way and shorten the front end (with moving the dovetail backwards). The effect of the rolled tube can be recreated with green stuff between muzzle and receiver. At least this is what I plan to do when getting there… Hey Steve! As you meanwhile reduced your activities on the FISD, it even is a bigger honor to have you posting here. Hope you are doing fine and join in again. Antonio, your completion set is on the way and with Derrek’s kit you then have everything to run a fine build. In case you really want to replicate this one here, you will additionally need Aaron’s (usaeatt2) inner barrel, the spring cup and 2 bullets. I keep fingers crossed for you and will be happy to follow your build. Thanks, Mike. Best regards to the man who lives in Hawaii, where most of us would be happy to spend our summer vacation. You lucky you No need to apologize at all, Aaron. That is exactly what this thread is for. Thank you very much for your help!

No artist chalk, nope. Something different. Will test it in my build when getting there an then post it (in case that works...)

Sounds good, I am convinced. Just ordered something "slightly different" to use in my own build in a few weeks...