T-Jay

Thanks for your kind words, Chris. Recently I installed the T-tracks from Roy on “Lucky#Eleven” and there were some differences to consider. No matter if this build log gets pinned or not, I need to find some time after finishing this blaster to set up an independent tutorial, covering the different characteristics of available T-tracks... Hey Bryn, have seen your effort on the power cylinders and yours really turned out far better than mine. So if anyone here wants to know, how good the 3D printed version can look like, I suggest to visit Bryn’s build Chris, first of all: thanks again for doing these 3D files! The surface I ended up with, was absolutely my own fault, as Bryn’s nice result proves. Glad to see your latest thread with the updated version getting such positive feedback Thanks, Sean. Actually only two sets of power cylinders were built, the one from metal was finished by Andy (PlayfulWolfCub). Very interesting information with acetone vapor smoothing, because this was what I originally had in mind. Like Chris (themaninthesuitcase) already said, it is sanding, priming, sanding … Bryn got a nice result that way…

PM sent to Chris (themaninthesuitcase) to assist with updating the power cylinders...

Your power cylinders look great, Bryn. Did you get the surface THAT smooth only by sanding and adding multiple layers of paint? Nothing else? If so, I might redo mine once I get time... Especially the rear section looks very good. Used real resistors? How did you shrink the red wire insulation to such a nice size?

Woohoo!!! You combined the rotary switch with the aluminum inlays in the trigger group That's freaking awesome

Yes, leave the charging handle unglued if you want to be able to remove the bolt. Didn't glue mine for the same reason and it slides fine through that slot.

Sounds great, Chris. Cannot wait to finally see some photos of the real thing

Great work, Bryn - with hollowing and the magnets. 5 seems to be the number to go for. Worked on mine, too

Update #22 - The power cylinders A few years ago, Andy (PlayfulWolfCub) started his impressive research to find out more about the power cylinders. If unaware, I highly recommend studying his PDF files. Derrek’s blaster kits contain a resin copy of these beautiful metal power cylinders (approved by Andy). Additionally I had ordered the 3D-printed version from Chris (maninthesuitcase). Both will now be compared to my PlayfulWolfCub’s prototype (shape A). The white 3D-print is VERY close - especially when considering, Chris designed this without having one in hands. His backplate is a shape C, which is very good, because it can also be trimmed to shapes A and B. If ordering 3D-parts for building an E-11, it makes more sense to go with dark colors. I only chose white, because three colors were available when I took a total of three parts (see update #10). However, the real mistake was to not smoothen the surface before painting. It still looks rough and therefore unreal. My fault due to hurrying Let’s now have a look at the black resin copy. It was taken from a metal version, consists of two pieces and looks very accurate. It only needs very few modifications. Still a bit different to the real thing, but good enough for me Although both are shape A, I found minor differences - meaning, there was some evolution from the early to the later versions, of which one was used for the resin casts. And here are some pictures of all three power cylinders. The metal prototype will stay in the display case and for this build I am going to use the resin cylinders. The 3D part is saved up for something else... As always, the next update will be ready in a week…

Thanks Sergiu. Thought it would make sense to cover these steps in detail, as I never came across a tutorial for this work here on FISD.

Well done, Henry. These modifications truly help making it look like a real Sterling. Can't wait for your next "Episode"

Update #21 - Back on track (T-track tutorial) Every single track in a kit is important. If just one of them gets messed up and a replacement is required, it causes a delay plus additional costs. To avoid this, there should be enough time when starting this work. Tools prepared: heat gun, gloves, side cutter, nose pliers and possibly a flat screwdriver and sandpaper or a file (not all is mandatory, just showing what options there are). It is really important to maintain a safe distance between track and heat gun during the whole process, as the arms might become tired after a while. The heat takes some time to get into the plastic part. Depending on the tool‘s power (1000 to 2000 W), this roughly takes about 1 minute - a bit less to correct the „banana bends“ and a bit more for a full bend. Too much heat or a close distance will both result in the „lizard skin effect“ (next pictures). And this cannot be made undone! Therefore it is useful to add the heat to the flat bottom of the track, not to the top. When gravity clearly starts to bend the part, a few more seconds will guarantee it is warm enough. Then it should immediately get bent. When it cools down, the material tries to get back in the original shape. Therefore it is important to keep the part in position for at least half a minute. If the heat gun burned the surface, the track might still be long enough for a different row of venting holes after cutting off the damage. Otherwise a replacement track is required. If everything went fine (or in cases of very little lizard skin) the heated end can be inserted into a receiver hole. All holes are the same (except the bigger one behind the front sight) and it does not matter, which one is used to bend the track. I personally prefer the row with the magazine well, because here the track can be worked in full length without anything in the way. Note: This is the only row with 10 holes to cover. All other rows have only 9 holes. If a track got messed up here, it might still work for another position. To permanently install a T-track, the correct length needs to be found. 10 mm to the front end of the farthest hole will save enough material for a nice bend. In case the tracks are being installed prior to the scope rail, it is useful to temporarily cover the receiver hole for the rail - just to avoid accidentally installing the top track there Only 6 of the 8 rows need to get covered. Tracks are not required on the row with the bayonet lug and the bottom row (because of the folding stock). If one or more tracks are rattling on the receiver tube, this can easily get fixed by semi-heating both ends. The material will then try to get back to the original (straight) shape. As a result, the tracks will hold themselves locked in the receiver holes. It is recommended to not paint T-tracks (if not inevitable). The different color and surface will make them look more believable. Weathering with colored highlights is questionable, as the prop makers also used black plastic tracks for the Sterlings in the movies. Scratches or dust are no problem. That's it for today. Thanks for any comments, questions and critics

That would result in some sad faces when I have to tell them, all blasters (except my own ones) are gone already... Thank you very much, guys. Your words do really mean a lot to me. I am very happy to have so many people following and commenting on this build. Glad if this thing could be of any help for any builder out there... I agree, Dennis. The E-11 has a very individual look and its own fascination. Thank you for helping other Sterling owners to find out more details via their serial numbers. Great service. To be exact, I only have 2 builds. The first one is a doopydoo's full resin blaster. The current one is a Phoenix Props pipe kit from Derrek (Dday) with some add-ons. The comparison photos in update #20 are showing my two builds next to each other. The three blasters from that extra posting are finished standard builds from Derrek's kits (no add-ons). And the latest "family photos" contain those three blasters plus the two I own. Confusing, he?! Would love to do that, Sergiu. But I worry this blaster might be too fragile for shipping However, your real Sterling will surely survive that procedure, so send that to me instead

Alright, after recovering from a very exhausting weekend ( ) I now found time for the promised extra posting. During the last weeks I was distracted with another project in the background. Why am I telling you? Because it has something to do with Star Wars, more specifically with Star Wars blasters. And now that the project is finished, I thought to share just a few photos of it here... And while taking these pictures I thought "hey, why not doing a few family photos?"

Bryn, attaching the grip to the receiver before or after painting depends on how you plan to add the colors: - Leaving the grip separate, minimizes your covering effort and avoids any gloss black spray paint on the rest of your blaster (except the trigger group - if that is uncovered). - On the other hand, a mounted grip is okay if you start your paintwork with that gloss black, then cover the grip after it dried and continue to paint the rest of the blaster. There is no perfect way to do it. You will have to prepare areas before painting, so I suggest to ask yourself how to keep your effort the lowest. The magazine from Steve (gazmosis) is a very nice cast and yes, it is possible to hollow the housing/mag well instead of cutting the magazine. Just be aware: To make it fit into your housing, the outer walls need to be thin. Very thin! We are talking about serious hollowing work, leaving you end up with resin walls of about 1.5 or 1.0 mm to receive this magazine. Consider this when thinking about the purpose for your blaster (trooping or display)...

Maybe this helps: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/tutorials/article/42-cutting-a-sterling-magazine-to-e-11-size/

Seriously Aaron, without knowing it, nobody would be able to tell from that earlier problem when looking at your second photo now. You did a very good repair!

Update #20 - Like the prop-builders did in 1976 About 40 years ago, the British Sterling SMG was chosen to be the base for our beloved “BlasTech E-11”. To not immediately be recognized as a weapon from the British Army, a few changes were made by the prop-builders. They removed the shoulder straps and shortened the magazines. To further disguise the true origins, they also installed some add-ons. Those who read my first blaster build will know the E-11 in the last pictures. Not perfect, but this was the easiest way for me to make such a comparison. After using pictures of Carrie Fisher and Harrison Ford in update #08 already, we now also have Mark Hamill to complete the trio In the next updates I am going to cover each of these additions in detail, because it would be too much info for just one single posting. Will close today's entry with another extra photo, inspired by the emblem of the FISD. Wishing everybody a nice weekend - and stay tuned to not miss an upcomming extra posting within the next days...

Seriously thought about later taking a photo (when the blaster is fully completed) where most of it is buried in sand – inspired by the TFA teaser with the crashed star destroyer and X-wing. The idea was to make it look like another found on Jakku. But I worried to never again get rid of all the sand… That was a good one. Thanks again for our latest meeting. That was a very nice day and a lot of fun. Do you want it now, or shall I finish it first? “This is not the blaster you’re looking for. Move along, move along…” Thanks Kevin. Just trying to cover each step to make it easier for some people out there. It is awesome what can be made out of this blaster kit. I don't think this thread gets pinned, but IF it gets, it would mean a great honor to me. For the E-11 modifications, just scroll down a bit... Jonathan, it seems like something got mixed up here, because so far I have not built, owned or sold any DLT-19

An awesome start, Henry. Something in your first posting made me click the follow-button. Not sure what it was

Very glad to see you solved that problem, Aaron. The bigger hole can surely get covered with Roy's track. Like said earlier: sleep about it Many things are seen different the day after. Really happy you don't have to start over. Now I am curious on that gun bluing...

Aaron, I am so sorry for this and will keep fingers crossed for your work-around...

WHAT??? Sleep about it, maybe there is another option... After all the work you have put into this, I would feel really bad if you need to replace the receiver. What about drilling or mill-cutting that stainless steel pin and installing a new one into the next hole?

Very impressive work on the scope and counter. I really like how both parts look.

Aaron, please correct me if I am wrong but this is not going to work. I fully understand your idea behind that inner barrel, but the stainless steel pin currently blocks a hole that you will later need for your T-track. You need to save the last 2 receiver holes (for scope rail and T-track). In your barrel you made a total of 4 holes. Any chance to move that steel pin to another one?

Send it to me and I will weather it for you - but I cannot promise to ever ship it back