T-Jay

Very nice, Michael. Loving your detailed work - and the tutorial-like posting style. Hoping we don't have to wait another 4 months for the next update?!

Wow, this worked very well. I was indeed curious to see how you bring that pattern only to the repaired spots. Well done!

When you had posted the photo below in entry #26, (to be honest) I was unsure what to say about it. Later you posted a very nice weathering-update and the scope now had a much more believable look. Although Brian's hollow-scopes are the most accurate resin versions I have ever seen, I am wondering why you want to replace yours. Maybe you can cover this question when posting about the new scope...

Hey Marc, your folding stock looks awesome! Very well done. You have also put a lot of effort into the latest progress and it looks good to me. Your idea to create the illusion of a thinner casing on the receiver is great. I love such details

... and another build comes to an end. Followed this thread with great interest and do really like what you made of it, Bryn. Congratulations on this nice looking blaster. You can be proud of your work.

Hi Mike, thanks for mentioning (and using) the Blaster Reference. That is exactly what it has been made for. And you are on a good way with your build... That blue yoga mat gives a nice background to the bright resin parts (unless you start painting) Well, I know of at least one thread you have read, which states this screw to be in size M6 Outer diameter of an M6 screw head is about 9,75 mm or 0.384 inch. Just see if you can find something close to that...

Can't wait to see that folding stock in action...

Wow, what an effort! But once you are done, I am sure it was worth it. This will become a very nice blaster. Already curious to see how you close the remaining gaps between those receiver tube pieces...

Hi Jon, welcome to the white zone That is a very interesting way to re-connect the pieces of the receiver tube. Did you drill the holes in the same diameter than the Sterling holes, or a bit bigger? The channel for the charging handle seems to be a little wider. Well done, so it cannot be spotted immediately.

The FISD E-11 Blaster Reference contains a useful chapter (#33 Gallery) and there is this link...

Hi Richard, glad to finally see paint on this one Don't worry about the weathering, as your TK armor is (currently) unweathered, too. Will be a matching look. The only thing I would suggest, is to add a black washing on those screws in the Hengstler counter. But that is all just personal taste... Congratulations on this blaster

Good progress, Marc. I like how you take care of the details

Hi Ahmad, this start looks very promising You made your homework. If you decide to take a Completion Set, you can remove the following items from your list, because they are in the set already: - D-Ring - super glue - putty (green stuff) - Aluminum flat bar - and the hex-screws for the muzzle and grip Just send a PM if you are interested... Checking your tools-list, I noticed you are planning to paint the grip in satin black and the gun body in gloss black. May I suggest to read chapter #28 (painting) and possibly swap this? The T-tracks on the original guns in the movie were made of black plastic. Not sure how these will look like in gunmetal grey but that color would definitely be a good choice for the inner bolt and the ejection port area. Please don't get me wrong, I don't want to tell you how to build your blaster. Just wanted to mention a few things. Whatever you do, if you work at the same level as your first posting above, this will become a very good E-11

Hi Marc, chapter #31 (measurements) contains some of the information you are looking for. Regarding the little knob on the magazine: I used a 5mm LED to build that. Just make sure, it does not stick out all the way - only a little bit.

For the Rogue One trooper this is screen accurate (referring to what we have seen so far in the teaser).

Hi Marc, you're on a good way so far. Keep the pictures coming...

Good question and not easy to answer. According to my information, the armors in the movie were made from matt or semi gloss ABS and looked shiny because of the lighting on the set. The helmets were made from khaki-green HDPE plastic and then painted white to match the armor. If you have various materials available, I would personally not mix them. As far as I know, none of the vetted armor makers does that (maybe except the customer asks for it). Regarding gloss or semi gloss, I would always go for semi, because the gloss ABS looks like the trooper just stepped out of the water. It is very shiny. Hope this helps and maybe someone else will chime in...

My first blaster: full resin kit from DoopyDoo's with some modifications Lucky#Eleven: Phoenix Props pipe kit with many add-ons and modifications - from Sterling to E-11 (with open bolt)

My DoopyDoo's full resin build with real counter and some modifications is 1.160 gramms / 2,56 lb My Phoenix Props pipe build with working counter, hollowed scope and many modifications is 1.040 gramms / 2,29 lb Links to both blasters can be found in the signature below. Curious if anybody has a DoopyDoo's pipe kit with PVC pipe and a hollowed scope...

The weathering topic splits into paint chips and wear & tear. A combination of both makes it believable. You can check the FISD E-11 Blaster Reference for details (see link in my signature). And like others already said: less is more. The degree of weathering on your pictures looks good.

Please also check the reference pictures for that ammo pack on your knee

Good luck, Christian! Although it looks like you won't need it Keeping fingers crossed...