T-Jay

Almost exactly five years ago this thread went through the roof. Who remembers? 139 replies within two months only! Many of us got to know each other a little better because of the stories behind the nicknames that were shared. Scrolling through the pages now, many avatars and signatures bring back good memories. Yes, since 2015 some members (sadly) left, but on the other hand a lot of new members joined. New members, that might not be aware of this thread, so I thought it could be fun to dig this out again. The topic says it all, so get on your keyboards.

Hi Stuart. As far as I know, cracks can be stopped and prevented with a support on the rear side. Add a piece of plastic or poor-man's fibreglass (that is a cloth, soaked with CA glue) to distribute the stress to a larger area. But that is all just theory to me. Maybe someone who already did this can chime in. The rear sides of the knees had been trimmed on many screen-used armors and from many troopers here. Just have a look at the build threads.

Beside of that, the photos are very confusing because the finished blaster in the first photo is the copy of a Bapty (used by the Sandtroopers in Tunisia), while the kit-photo shows a different 3D-printed kit.

A great result Andreas - and done in record time! I really like the weathered look of this blaster. Well done.

Don't worry about that, I had the same. It is no disadvantage as multiple layers of paint do make a great finish. What about covering the hammered paint in stressed spots before adding the final black coat? This would make a nice weathered effect.

What is wrong with this color? Is it gun metal grey or something? (hard to tell from a photo with flashlight)

Hi Andreas, i really like the green stuff welding seam on the magazine housing. Can't wait to see that whole thing painted.

There are builds based on both of these materials. Resin kits are very popular and have been the choice of countless troopers for many years now (at least for the common E-11 versions). Meanwhile 3D-prints are on the market, too and the big issue here is: how accurate are the files?! To find the right blaster for you, I suggest to first study the CRL of your preferred costume. Then check the requirements for that specific blaster(s) to bring it up to level 2 and 3. Then look again at your $200-resin kit and the $100 3D-print to distinguish, which one fits best. In case you are not familiar with levels 2 and 3, here is an introduction to this. Any questions, just ask.

Exactly what I thought, so here is an overview that might help you. 4 of 5 German Squads do have an Attaché, so your chances are very good.

Welcome Anderson. Before you purchase any armor, it is also helpful to consider your individual body size and shape. This can affect the sources to buy from. My advice would be to get in contact with your local Garrison first. Meet the people, see their armors and notice the differences. If you let us know where you are living, we can help with your local Attachè to get you started.

Welcome Ian. Did you already get in contact with your local 501st Squad? Depending of the area you live in, we can find a local Attaché for you.

Great work on this project so far. Years ago when I played this game, I liked the cross-over idea of these helmets, and I still do. Just one thing sticks out to me; isn't the forehead a bit oversized? Wouldn't say the brow is placed too low, but everything above it looks slightly too large. I might be wrong on this whole point, but just thought I mention this before you start printing.

Hello and welcome to the FISD. You made everything right in coming here for the classic Stormtroopers. For a first overview, I would point you to the Getting Started section with A LOT of information. This thread will help to get an idea about the costs. Some of our vetted makers also do commission builds, the prices vary of course. Finding the best armor for you, also depends on your body size and shape. It is always good to get in contact with your local Garrison. Here you can find your local Attaché, who will surely be happy to help. Any questions, just let us know. We are here to help.

No baby Yoda jokes now. Welcome to the FISD, Kyle. Ask any question you have.

Hoping you had some fun and will do it again. Btw. you can start a Troop Log thread here if you want.

For tall troopers, some armor-makers also offer the shins in a longer version. First you should find out, if you'll need some of these, as this will affect your source to buy from. I would also suggest to get in contact with your local 501st unit, @lorddavids can surely introduce you. Join some of them on a troop, talk to the people and notice the differences of each armor. @troopermaster and RS Prop Masters (both in the UK) are very good sources for ANH.

Hello Luca and welcome to the FISD. The cheapest costume might not be the right one for you, as there are more things to take care of. For example your individual body shape and size. If you tell us a little bit more and let us know your preferred type of Stormtrooper (many variants being covered here), we can help you finding what you will need. Research and patience are the keys in this hobby, so we often suggest to take your time, save your money for the right offer and maybe use the meantime to build a blaster.

Gotta add your electricity costs into the budget of this project.

Not saying Greg is wrong here, but be careful with using hot water: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/30078-warning-to-anyone-assembling-rs-props-pvc-armor/ In my opinion, both methods (hot water and heat gun) can be good to solve the problem. It all depends on the situation and armor part(s) you are working on. Maybe you can also use a simple belt to wrap around the part and leave it for a few days to get into the desired shape...

Welcome to the FISD, Morten. No matter what costume you have, this might be some useful information for your first troop: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/39382-your-first-troop-a-few-tips/

The cat wants your attention, mate.

For blasters we have this - okay, it only covers the Blastech E-11 and is not specific for 3D-printed things, but the chapters #03, #27, #28 and #29 might still be useful for this build.

Exactly this. Don't underestimate the time, a good blaster build can take. We just had @Dracotrooper completing his build after more than 2 years! But we have also seen builds here of just 2-3 months. It all depend on the level of accuracy and your time to build. In another thread you asked about RS Prop Masters, so I guess you are aiming for a classic Stormtrooper. In that case you might need an E-11 blaster. If you have access to a 3D printer, then go this route. Otherwise check out the popular resin kits and feel free to contact me for detailed questions on this topic.

As per CRL, I would say these are okay for level 3.