Echo

10mm is too much of a return on arms, legs and most of the torso IMO. 5-7mm will be better for comfort, look and durability. I already have a few cracks in places that are due to returns being too big. If you are using the original strapping brackets, the return will be about 12-14mm to allow for the screws to be set.

Congrats

I have split and cap rivets for sale in the ongoing area and will ship internationally.

Congrats!

Congrats!

Very nice work Jesse! You'll get there before you know it.

I echo the sentiments written above. Thanks all for your hard work.

Not that I have read. Just try to match your bucket as close as possible.

http://www.npr.org/2013/06/20/193496493/translated-into-navajo-star-wars-will-be First major film to be dubbed in Navajo

Would Barge glue work?

The elastics are most commonly sewn together. That from what I understand is screen accurate. Rob from RS Propmasters told me they glue the elastics together to form loops when they do a build because that is how their original suit had them.

Welcome. Returns are generally speaking a matter of comfort and subjectivity on most pieces. Also depending on the strapping method you plan to use for the torso, the returns will vary. A good rule of thumb IMO is 3-5mm on biceps and forearms, erring on the thinner side. Shins and thighs, about 5mm is good to start but as you fit it and adjust to your body you may want to thin that or even eliminate such as behind your knees. The torso (ab, chest, kidney, butt) I would say 5-7 for the outer returns , but many people like them thinner for aesthetic reasons. For the edges between plates, somewhere around 10-13 is good if you are using strapping brackets, so you have space for the screw heads. You can go less if using snap plates. Remember these are rules of thumb. Proportion and fit to your body is the ultimate goal. Really study as many images from the screen used armor in the reference section of the forum. Other people's builds are helpful, but may have inaccuracies you aren't aware of. So don't just go blindly by what you see there. Just because someone else got approved with it, doesn't mean it's correct. Good luck and remember to go slow. Savor the build, you will be finished before you know it.

Hi Evan, Yes that's the idea with the elastic and hooks for the shins. Not the most friendly to put on and off but the are screen accurate. Be sure to find a few examples in builds to help place them, as well as photo references of screen uses armor. One question about the cap rivet you used. It kind of looks like a pop rivet. The cap rivet should have no hole in it and have a round head that is about 7mm (need to check that size, I'll edit my post when I'm sure) A cap rivet has two round sides. It is also called a double cap rivet. Sorry if I was confusing

Cap rivet for the thigh pack is most accurate. Split rivets are allowed under the current CRL for centurion level.

Congrats

Very nice find! Thank the Swedes ; ). Haha

Pictures or it not for real! /hijack thread off

Congrats!

Thanks all. My enthusiasm for my new hobby is showing haha.. Its clear that I like to keep things in order, but one of the biggest motivators was making sure I never forget anything when prepping for a troop. heh. Organized on the outside, organized chaos on the inside of my head heh... My wife can attest to how forgetful I can be. ---------

My crate has a shelf with foam that the blaster fits in its holster

Those look really great. Congrats given the ordeal you have had.

For EIB, you will need to remove the rivets on the sniper plate and glue them instead.

I bought a RS helmet and armor kit with the fully loaded strapping kit. It gives you essentially all you need to put the suit together... rivets, brackets, elastic etc. only thing you might need is a brass rivet for the crotch if you plan to build to centurion standards. While they sell the other stuff, I opted to buy everything else through various vendors from these forums. Under suit I got from East Bay. A garrison mate of mine bought the boots from RS and didn't have good things to say about them. TK-Boots have been the best option but their supply is pending arrangements with a new fabricator so it may be a few months before you can get them. However they still have some supply depending on your size, so contact them. E-11's are a whole other matter depending on if you want to build one, or have one that is lighter for trooping. Best thing there is to read as many posts as you can.

RS glues their elastic loops together because their original suit has them done that way. Most people sew them. I personally like them sewn too because they feel stronger. I used a sewing machine which was tricky but it worked.