Bulldog44

Got the popcorn ready!

Looks good to me Stephen. The RS armor has a lot of these odd alignment. I struggled at first as I was trying to get it all to match up perfectly but it just doesn't so you go with the screenshots and references in the gallery for the RS suit. As Joseph has suggested, try to get the sharp edges sanded to a smoother finish so the don't catch on your under suit. One thing I did for the exact same part- I reinforced behind the seam with some scrap PVC/ABS as my thigh parts were really thin in that area. Also it kind of visually filled in any noticeable gap. But you made nice clean cuts so you don't have to worry about that.

Q, you stand correct. Not CRL required. Thanks. I think I always get stuck on the RS Props original suit specifications. My RS armor has the 12 recesses right arm, 11 on the left. I was feverish copying that particular suit so I often get those details confused with CRL requirements. My apologies Robert for mixing that up. In that case, you can align the halves more toward the elbow end to give you more room near the wrist opening. Then trim the wrist end so the edges equally meet up. No return edge needed there. First tape it up and test fit how that fits first before breaking out the scissors.

Hi Robert. Finally checking in here. Good start. Helmet looking good. The ear spacing is fine but as already suggested a bit of strategic sanding will eliminate the gaps more. For the forearms the outer right half should have 12 dimples if I am correct. The left having 11. If I am correct it seems you have the left outer forearm on your right arm. I will double check in this. The CRL does not mention this. If you can post up some pics of both forearms side by side that might help see. After figuring out the outer forearm parts you can move to addressing the wrist opening when you get the two halves aligned properly. you still have a slight return edge curving inwards at the wrist end. That can be removed giving you a bit more room. I can’t make the armor party on the 16th but can skype/FaceTime. Sometimes easy to explain that way than through photos. Let me know if you want to give that a try.

Congratulations Jason! Awesome design, very classy and balanced. I knew you had it in the bag right away when I saw it.

The printed sight block looks nice and sharp. Well done on the installation. I remember first cutting into the main tube to create the dovetail space, wondering if I had gone too far in trying to capture the look of the real sterling. It’s great to see this is now pretty much standard procedure for the doopy builds. It certainly adds that extra element of realism. Keep up the great work!

https://m.imgur.com/gallery/tkD4Wt9 Here are the links if they cannot be seen http://s1281.photobucket.com/user/Bulldog44Japan/media/FISD Photobucket Quick Guide/IMG_4754_zps818ebl5p.jpg.html http://s1281.photobucket.com/user/Bulldog44Japan/media/FISD Photobucket Quick Guide/IMG_4761_zps4zbfm06k.jpg.html Sorry, was having trouble getting the images to post. Hope it made the deadline.

Super! The armor looks awesome and the pack is an added compliment to it. Your dedication in making this costume is evident and can’t praise you enough. I really want to build an R1 suit more than ever. The straps look great and hope you can find some solutions for attaching them & getting glossy castings in your next trial. Congratulations and thanks for sharing pics of your troop in the armor.

No problem. these clips don't actually have any springs. I cut the main clip metal part with shears for cutting metal. I just cut the exact strip size from that metal and bent it to specs. It has worked perfectly since. I used dollar store large sized bulldog clips as the metal isn't as rigid (cheap metal) as the more expensive ones.

I checked my build thread and I used a bulldog clip for the spring plate. The metal was strong enough to keep its spring tension and easy enough to cut & drill through. I believe I used the large type of clips as the metal is a bit thinner and easier to work with.

Clip release, end cap and end cap clip look great. Nice work on these parts. For the end cap clip I think I used a piece of scrap metal from something I had. Sorry my memory on that is fuzzy. But I do remember having to punch a hole through the metal and it took a few attempts. I will have a look at my old build and see what I used. Aluminum is too soft as you mentioned and won’t be great long term.

Looking great. Good to have a break sometimes and then get back to work on it. Best of luck !

My weekend is now complete!

Nice job on the blaster so far. Sorry I missed this build from the start.

Wow, that red led on the front looks cool. I have to do this someday with my blaster. Truly awesome work. Great you are paving th way for others on the wiring and power.

Holy mother of all blaster racks! Tino, amazing ideas put into practice here. I love the continued theme using the circuit boards. These stands look fantastic, well done! Above and beyond as always!

Looking sweet! The thinner wires as Christian recommended look much better too. Sometimes just a slight shift in size/scale can make the difference.

Try here for a resin one: ------------ Contact Fieldmarshal on this forum for a metal one. Hope this helps.

The BlastFX kit is spectacular! that is going to light up your blaster like a Christmas tree! The scope display never fails to impress me as well. I told Paul he hit a grand slam when he added that to the kit! It added new purpose and meaning to making my hollow scope kits! Keep up the amazing work!

Capacitors looking good. I found them to be the most fun for this part. I had never worked on anything that small model wise so it was a challenge to get it all looking as it should. You are on your way! Coming together and your care for all the details is showing!

Everything is shaping up nicely.

Wow, the 3D scope and counter look amazing. Nice work on those. The speaker holes on the counter will really help when you get the speaker in there.

Thanks. Yes you can use the green stuff to get the knurling pattern on there. I think I tried heating the tool handle I was using and heat press it into the pvc plastic. Fuzzy on my memory there. I think it could work using the green stuff on the aluminum but was t sure if it would hold permanently. Now thinking about it, I think would be okay. I bought the over strip at a local home center. I think it is generally used fir some window framing here or something like that. It’s easy to cut and file to shape. If you need any, I can mail you some pieces.

Can't wait to see some pics of the armor in troop action.

I tried to salvage the doopy end clip T section but opted to make a new one with some PVC plastic. I think I even made one out of aluminum but opted not use it as I could not apply the knurling pattern on it as I wanted.