Bulldog44

Thanks Rat. I guess if I cant reduce the seam with a back plate support then I might consider redoing one half so there is less of a seam.

Working on my Anovos TK kit which I will probably convert to a TD. Assembling the left thigh and glued on cover strip but not quite happy with the alignment and placement. The 2 parts are quite hard to align compared to my RS TK thigh parts because the bottom ridge on the outer half (seen in the picture as right side) is very pronounced and does not sit flush with the inner half lower ridge. This makes it difficult to position the cover strip lower. If I did, the strip would not be flush and raised leaving a large noticeable cavity viewable from the side. I decided to align the bottom parts to line up rather than the top of the thighs. this has caused a bit of a problem with the outer half sitting slightly higher at the top end. (Sorry I forgot to take a pic of that.) I thought that I could trim the return edges back enough to a point where the top ridges would align a bit more evenly but I think that is not really possible. Also the two halves shifted apart a bit making the bottom ridge seam very noticeable. With some persuasion I think I can glue an underside strip to reduce the seam. From a distance it doesn't look that bad but up close, no good for me if I leave as such. When the 2 parts are flexed into the curved final position the seam almost closes up. Please excuse the messy taping and gluing. Should I remove the strip and re apply/ re align? Just would like to gather some opinions/suggestions on this. If its recommended to do so, should I align the top ridge and leave the bottom ridge uneven?

Hi Robert. The left thigh cover strip might need to be moved up a bit so the bottom of the strip lines up with the very top of the lower ridge section. The right side thigh cover strip has the correct placement. This pic might help: http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m587/RS_Prop_Masters/RS Upper Leg Build/IMG_0861.jpg The RS Props left thigh shows the cover strip position (left- original thigh/ right side-new RS thigh ) You might be able to delicately trim it down in its glued position but its risky.

Congratulations on becoming a trooper! The more Brians, the merrier!

Great pics! Congrats on another cool troop!

I wouldn’t go too much wider as it starts to become noticeable. a few mm extra you could probably get away with but around 30mm and over it start to look too wide.

Hi Dan. Good question. As Joseph said, it depends on where you will do your trooping the most. The good thing is you are not locked into a garrison forever and you can apply for transfers. There is one member in japan who resides in Japan but is registered in another country garrison. There is some flexibility as long as you provide a reason I would assume if you transfer. I wanted to join the Empire State Garrison when I join seeing I am originally from NY but since live in Japan, I will troop mostly here and could not justify signing up to a garrison that I am not living near or will spend any time with unless its once a year on vacation. Oh, BTW.... I am happy if you join the JG!!!!

聞きたい事や確認などがありましたらご連絡して下さい。日本語ばっちりじゃないけどなんとなくお手伝い出来ると思います。 Josephのポストでチェックリストのリンクをご覧して下さい。EIB申し込むの写真はチェックリスト通り(順番)に並べてして下さい。 このリンクも見て下さい。細かいにEIBガイドラインを説明してます。全部必要ない写真の見本があります。 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/22583-expert-infantry-application-guidelines/ チェックリスト分からないことがありましたら教えてくだし。 EXPERT INFANTRY PHOTO CHECKLIST 1st Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment Full Body ⃝ Front – Arms at side ⃝ Back – Arms at side ⃝ Left – Arm raised ⃝ Right – Arm raised ⃝ Right Side Detail – Arm raised ⃝ Left Side Detail – Arm raised Armor Details ⃝ Abdomen Details ⃝ Action Shot ⃝ Cod and Butt Plate Attachment ⃝ Interior Strapping Helmet Details ⃝ Front ⃝ Side ⃝ Back ⃝ Hovi Tip Detail ⃝ Lens Color (Backlit if required) Blaster Details ⃝ Blaster – Left ⃝ Blaster – Right Accessory Details ⃝ Neck Seal ⃝ Thermal Detonator – Back ⃝ Holster Attachment Mandatory Information / 必要な情報 Armor Maker = Helmet Maker = Blaster Type = Optional / オプショナル Height = Weight = Boots Maker = Canvas belt = Hand Plates Type = Electronics = Neck Seal Type = Holster Maker = Photo Guidelines - Photo Size: > 800x600 (preferably 1280 x 960) - Good Lighting - Neutral Color Background - Take zoom of photo into consideration. Additional Requirements Listed in: Expert Infantry Application Guidelines JGでEIBやCenturionのトルーパーが増やしたらいいね！頑張って下さい！

Slow and steady wins the race! Good to see you are keeping a pace.

Great work Marko! Looks like a perfect fit. I wish my blaster had a functioning stock.

Good to see you back on the armor! Looks good. As you mentioned, may need to re-set the snap placement on the either the shoulder/backplate or the snaps between the backplate and kidney piece. But Greg made a really important point that the belt, when worn pushing things together a bit and will give you a better idea of how the parts fit on you. It may reveal that it pulls the lower armor parts up a touch and help decrease the gap between backplate and kidney. My butt plate flares out quite a bit but when you have the whole suit on, especially the belt, you really cant notice it.

Sounds good.

Try to see how the gap looks when the two parts fit the contour of your back. The gap should be less visible when you try this. If you still have a fairly visible gap when you mock it up to your back, then you might want to re-adjust the straps to reduce that.

Robert, nice work on the TD. Hope the armor party was helpful. Even if the TD comes up a bit shorter than the 190.5 that is fine. Getting it close is enough. 184-190.5 is safe enough. If the caps are fitting snug enough, you can always use them to adjust the overall length by how far in or out you position them. I have entertained the idea of using the TD as a wireless speaker container but have not yet tried it. Someday when I get a chance I might give a a go. Another idea I wanted to try was to have the TD plate lift up on hinges to reveal some tripped out inner details.

Selector switch looks great! Nice work on that and the light tubes. Looking forward to see how the sanded tube helps with the LED lights. Does it all fir nicely in the receiver tube? Keeps those updates coming!

Thanks Paul for confirming that! I think I remember wondering if the CRL was incorrect as I was building my RS armor to the RS suit measurements,. So to play it safe I went with 190 to be in the ballpark. I thought better to leave some meat on the bone just in case, as I could always trim it down afterwards if required. Harder to fix if its over trimmed.

For the TD I would certainly stick closer to the CRL measurement. My TD ended up being 190mm in length. When you sent me that TD pic the other day I didn't see the measurements, sorry. I used this photo which I believe was the TD from the RS suit (screen used)- experts out there, please correct me if I am wrong. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/image/2484-td/

Nice work Marko. This will be interesting to see when its all finished. For the openings you cut out for the displays, will you be able to frame the open window area so you can't see the cut edges? Just worried the uneven edges might be visible.

I used the electronics from one of these blasters to install in me F-11D. Good cheap option.

I also chose to work with e6000 as its very forgiving. My RS armor is pvc and the glue they gave me at the time did not set properly. Had same issues. Takes more time to set but worth it in my opinion.

Hi Robert. One thing that worked for me when gluing the outer strips was to glue only one half of the strip at a time. First I made sure where I wanted the strip to be, then I sanded the area on the armor part & the glue side of the strip. Again, I glued only half the strip down let it set properly and then I glued the other half afterwRds. This helped keep things in place better for more and much easier to work with than trying to get both halves to stay aligned& under stress while setting.

Fieldmarshal makes a amazing aluminum sterling replica that makes it easy to assemble and install electronics. TRamp makes an excellent ready to go electronic system for E-11s but you will have to install it yourself. Worth the money if you can afford them both.

From what I remember with my armor I first glued the outer strip on one side then reinforced that by gluing the inner strip afterwards. Then I moved to the other side . This worked well for the parts that seemed to have a lot more stress when trying to glue strips on the sealing end . I was using e6000 though so that sometimes didn’t cure well and was a weak binder.

Second what Mark says. Glue the inner strips in after not at the same time.

Excellent work on the cylinders.