fritzthefox

Just finished converting an old Hasbro into an E-11 squirt gun. I had hoped to integrate the new hardware with the old sound and lights, but it didn't work, partly because there simply wasn't enough room inside the blaster for everything, and partly because I couldn't make the motor run using the existing battery and wiring. I know next to nothing about electronics or plumbing, so this was very much a trial and error prone adventure. I therefore gutted the interior of the Hasbro, grinding out just about everything that didn't serve to hold it together. I wired a 9-volt battery to a switch (I had to fashion a little bracket to hold the switch out of ABS) and an aquarium pump. The pump draws water from a small plastic bottle in the rear. It was necessary to install a check valve into the bottle for it to draw air when the pump is on. The valve likes to leak sometimes (I think it tends to stick open, a problem that can be solved by blowing on it), so I drilled a relief hole in the back of the blaster for it, so it will not leak inside the gun. To refill it, I made the resin piece on the end removable, and provided extra slack in the tubing. I just pull off the cap, pull out the bottle and refill. When the gun was screwed back together, I found that the motor was constricted so tightly (even after shaving off non-essential bits of it) that it would not run. I had to cut a small relief hole for it just below the magazine. That worked fine, and remains hidden owing to its location. The cosmetic pieces are from one of Striker's kits. When I reassembled the gun, I was careful to use E6000 on pieces that I may have to pry apart later, if it needs servicing. The 9-volt fit snugly into the old battery compartment, once I replaced the wiring and ground out a little bit of plastic, so it can be replaced easily enough via the compartment cover. The range works out to be about 6 feet on a fresh battery. It chews through both the water and the battery pretty fast. But it works! I'm ready for those smart-alecky boy scouts now.

Never mind, I find them. Thx. Mods feel free to delete this thread.

I disassembled my Hasbro and misplaced the screws (I know, I know). Does anyone know what size screws will fit?

OK, I bought a multimeter and tested the voltage reaching the motor. It appears to have adequate voltage (2V, which isn't great, but should get it to do something) but it does not appear to be receiving anywhere near the required current. I don't know how much is enough, but assuming I'm measuring it right, it is only getting 8 milliamps, at best. Based on what I've heard, it is happiest with one to one and a half amps. So how do I get more amps?

I am obviously testing the components before fitting them into the gun. Perhaps my question was too vague: does anyone know why the motor should not work, assuming there is adequate voltage? (I will confirm voltage with a multimeter, as soon as I get my hands on one). If voltage proves to be inadequate, does anyone know how I can increase it without frying something? It seems like the 3v battery pack (which appears to be wired in series) should push a 3V motor, unless the current is being restricted along the way....right? I don't suppose someone has a wiring diagram for one of these things?

OK, let me preface this post by stating that I have no effing idea what I am doing when it comes to electrical stuff. But I decided to do something ambitious, anyway, and now I am predictably stuck. I could use some help from one of you electrical wizards out there. I am trying to install a small 3V aquarium pump in an old Hasbro blaster, in hopes that it will make a nifty squirt gun. My thinking was that I could just remove the light at the tip of the barrel and run those wires to the pump instead, which would pull water from a small reservoir in the back of the gun and squirt it out a tube in the muzzle whenever the trigger was pulled. After battling to get the gun open and wiring it up, the motor does not run. (everything else still works) I have two identical motors, and tried both of them, so I do not believe the problem lies with the motor. Could it be that there is inadequate voltage getting to the pump? If so, is there some way to increase it? Any guidance would be helpful. Photo of my science experiment below...

It's gone again. Thanks to all who donated!

We had one person back out of their commitment to buy a blaster, so there is one slot open for a converted Hasbro. If you are interested, you have less than 24 hours to visit https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/787507730/replica-detention-block-and-cells and claim it...

All the blasters are now gone. Thanks, guys! We have met our kickstarter goal and this fall should see the unveiling of a new Detention Block at the Cincinnati Comic Expo. (Feel free to throw in some pocket change before the kickstarter closes...our goal was a conservative estimate for supplies, and I'm sure we'll spend more.) Thanks again to all who contributed! Engineer, if you are still looking for a blaster, contact Striker on this or the 501st board. He makes them. All of his blasters are approvable. I know because he built mine!

The Blasterpro Workshop, builder of Ohio's full size Speeder Bike replica, is raising funds for its next project, a full scale detention block. One of the many perks of donating at the 160+ level is a 501st approvable E-11 Blaster. There are only two slots left for this prize, so jump on it while you can. Kickstarter ends soon! https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/787507730/replica-detention-block-and-cells

Stumbled upon this infographic the other day, comparing ABS yellowing to another plastic: ----------- The graph measures yellowing of the plastics over time. It is measured in Delta-B, which you can see for yourself by tinkering with the the color white in Photoshop or similar graphics program by messing with the "B" slider in LAB color mode. A five percent increase is barely noticeable, a ten percent increase definitely so. I found it interesting (and disturbing) how quickly the armor yellows when exposed to sunlight (or any other UV source). It takes less than 500 hours of exposure to hit ten percent. I was wondering how this information jibes with your own personal experiences?

Just an update (I hate threads without closure): I purchased a spring from Reid Supply which turned out to be perfect. You have to be careful about choosing shipping from them, though, or you will get scalped. (It defaults to UPS, but you can select USPS for a much better price). Thanks, guys!

Thks! Nice finish on your E-11, btw.

I was looking at those unicoils, but was having trouble finding the appropriate size. (All the auto parts searches want to search by make and model of car instead of actual diameter of the coil) Do you recall which brand or model number it was? The interior of my PVC will allow up to 1.25 inch spring. I think the actual return spring on a Sterlin was closer to an inch, but I'm guessing. Anyone know? How springy are the above examples? I have a pipe build with resin bolt that will slide back and forth, but if the spring is really strong I think it would stress the resin handle too much.

Anyone know where the best source of an inexpensive return spring for a pipe-built E-11 would be? I'd prefer a relatively weak spring, rather than a bent wire or something, since the bolt will actually function. Any ideas are welcome.