The5thHorseman

As i understand yours are 1 inch wide, which makes 25,4mm. Originals were closer to 20mm and as you have thin thighs i guess you could narrow them a bit if ever you find the motivation : But 25mm wide is perfectly approvable!!

What you can also do about the side rivets it's to set them but non-functionally (only for the outisde aspect), and then glue your snaps next to them. You will only need longer straps for the same result: About the cover caps, there's no precise measurements. Just eyeball them:

What width are these front cover strips? They seem quite large to me. Usually they should be around 20mm.

Wonderful job on modding the left biceps shape! I'm glad someone finally did something about it

In case you're not using them because want to be able to dismount your armor completly, you could use this method to have split rivets showing on the outisde but keeping the possibility to disassemble the ab from the kydney plate.

Having real parts to base your paintwork on really made wonders! It's giving me the strong will to re-paint mine. Congratulations for having gone through this whole and very challenging build!! I would just remove the counter wires. In the end, no screen used blasters had them... Will we ever know for whom this amazing blaster is?!?

Thank Steve. And have you noticed any bleaching on your printed counter figures possibly due to e6000?

Yes that's better . And thanks for the heads up Paul, these are interesting measurements.

I remember having done one some time ago. It will never worth a good reference picture but perhaps it's more appealing for a new member.

I'm curious, what glue did you use for the counter plexiglass?

The problem is that the sketch from Bill (DroidHunter) in the first post is wrong. So sticking it would be "dangerous" in case people would stop at the first picture they find.

13 figures instead of 15; no letters... ...who cares!?! That's so freaking cool!!! . You are really nailing this Doopy kit!

I've got a good feeling about this . Looking forward for more progress!

Yes i saw that the ear positioning is different, but as each helmet is unique it's always very difficult to recreate a perfect match with a screen-used helmet . BTW your lids collection on the background of some pics is awesome!

RT-mod is made for tall people, i assume that's why the shoulder bells are a bit longer than the normal. Their height location is good, however it's very hard to say if you should trim their bottom or not without a proper picture of you with your arms at side and not bent like on your pics. Edit: In fact looking at them once again i don't find them that much long. So i wouldn't trim their bottom.

I've learnt A LOT about Luke's specifications reading your thread (i wasn't there when SW1 made his ) so thank you, i much appreciate that you've shared your work about it The only thing i find a bit off compared to Luke's armor are the tube stripes. The front stripes (near the vocoder) don't bend really like on Luke's helmet, especially on the right cheek.

Top of the thighs are squared: However, the top of the thighs back cover strips are usually adapted to the armor curves.

Well, you might need to buy a new Sniper knee plate, not because of the fit, but because it looks like you have completely removed its top return edge which shouldn't be the case:

Being unable to have access to a heatgun and being reluctant to buy one i ended up using my toaster to heatbend some of my parts . I wouldn't recommand it though, you have very little to no control on the heat. Instead i think you should look for a bucket large enough to contain enough boiling water to immerse your parts. Boiling water is hot enough to soften the ABS, but certainly not enough to warp it so it's kind of safe in the end.

I agree with Nick and his cut lines, don't cut the top of the thighs. It would solve one problem by creating another one.

Your drop boxes are a bit misaligned, they should be aligned with the ends of the ammo belt: But apart from that it's really looking wonderful

Yes that's exactly what i mean! And sorry for my english i kind of struggle with words today

I would also advise to set the abdominal rivets first. Because of the cod piece which ends along the abdominal section and where there's no rivet, it creates a shift on the kydney's rivets at the bottom.

Actually i did like you when i weathered my scope, tuning down my weathering with a succession of black washes until it blends very smoothly with the black. But now i'm not so sure about it, i think it should be a combinaison of some weathering done this way (weathering of wear) but also of some chipped off paint localized at the exposed areas (scratches weathering). So even though i like this version, i also think your first version of it was really interesting.

I knew for that helmet and i agree with you to leave it like that, but i think remember that Steve have asked for a trooper to modify it for his Centurion application.