The5thHorseman

I guess you have your answer Ronny

Do you think they used the original Sterling mechanism to setup their blank firing system? In this case no doubt it should be kept

I don't think there would be a clear pic to prove it, but it's most likely supposed to be there. I don't see any reasons to explain why they would have removed it.

I never thought i'd read that one day... On your picture, there's one wonderful helmet, the RS one, and one, let's be honest, ugly helmet, the efx. As you're new you're perhaps not familiar with how original helmets looks. Here's an original HERO helmet on the picture below, and you can see that there's a world between it and the efx one. The whole general shape on the efx is just wrong compared to it. Regarding the ear screws, they are required for second the level of approval. But yes, for basic 501st approval they aren't required.

Will you get both Stunt and Hero molds?

Thanks for feeding us with these great reference pictures Aaron! And i agree with him about the trigger, your spring looks just too long.

I would "dye" for it

From what i've understood, ANOVOS picked up the licenses from Museum Replica last year. Wait and see as you say, but this Luke's Bespin suit looks really beautiful. It's one of the rare Rebel costume i'd like to have.

I'm personnaly wondering on what sources are they working from? LFL access?

Very nice bunch of improvements since your EIB application . Good luck!

This tutorial might help you to properly linking your pics for your thread: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/tutorials/article/5-howto-post-images-on-the-forums/ About the butt plate, see Maxsteel's thread about my opinion if you're interested For the shoulder bells, perhaps you wear them reversed. There is no clear right way to wear them, but to me there's one which makes them closing better in the front. I find that they close better when the more rounded side is facing the front, like the trooper below:

Ok, don't throw me rocks but if the butt plate flares like that, it's just because it is how the original butt plate that RS has and that NE recast is. You can also see it on few screencaps from the film: You can either heat bend it if it really hurts you but you can also leave it as it. Once all geared up, with the thighs on, and the holster it is less noticeable.

Really?! I never thought it would be that powerful! And if you loose or swap for a softer spring, would it still hit the cocking channel that hard? In the end you should be able to disassemble your blaster pretty easily as you have mostly original parts? So if ever you want to upgade it in the future it should be possible.

Good way for practicing! It will ease a lot your own helmet assembly Edit: I've just remembered that RT-Mod comes with the helmet fully assembled normally.

I won't affect approval or EIB, but it will probably for Centurion.

Well it's sometimes difficult to describe precisely something with just few words. In this case i assum that the CRL can be misleading and should specify that the bottom rivet shouldn't be placed on the cod section, which is right under the abdominal section and only delimited by a raised line. Following the CRL is a good beginning but refering to original pics is also primordial: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26886-split-rivet-placement/

Damn, i wouldn't want to be the one who have to paint this totally amazing future e-11!! Pressure to possibly mess with this beauty would be too much for me Will you add an inner barrel? I feel like with all the work you've done so far, you can't go without

Ok, now be honest, there's a helmet kit laying around on the last picture background! What's the story?! I thought you wouldn't receive your armor until May?

Unfortunately you did a common mistake with the split rivets placement. Have a look at this topic, from post #229 http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/24804-maxsteeles-new-ne-armor-build/page-12

Split rivets placement is wrong, don't set them that way. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26886-split-rivet-placement/ You should also trim the top of the junction between the ab and kydney so the line becomes straight.

The thing for me is that defining the Replica level seems very difficult to me. How deep in the accuracy should we ask in order to obtain the Replica level? I mean it's not only using brackets... The stormtrooper armor is very well known and with the amazing thread about some of the original strapping used for the armors on the film compiled and posted by Locitus, can we allow a "Replica" which wouldn't use it. Because all the armors just cannot be built with this stuff, as most of all are very vintage and therefore extremely rare and difficult to find, especially if you're outside the UK. And if not used is it still a Replica? Should we make Tiers inside the Replica level...? Then only few armor makers could compete for this award, RS, CfO, and TM, (and one of these days eFX i guess). I've personnaly nothing against that but i'm sure it would be frustrating for some.

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/20859-accurate-anh-stormtrooper-strapping-brackets-v-20-now-available/

I wonder if people making a Replica would really look for an award? Perhaps just a "Show-off" section would be enough, easier to establish and really cool

Yep, by adding "Han" we then expected a Replica. And Replica is all about the details

They're usually supplied with the kit as large sheets of ABS that you cut to length and width needed. If not Trooperbay sold some. However i don't know if the ABS stripes he sold would match the NE's ABS hue. http://trooperbay.com/abs-plastic-extension-strips/