The5thHorseman

I was gone, but i'm back... and i'm really impressed once again by your work Aaron! If i could offer one suggestion, it would be to paint those rounds in the magazine with a golden fashion paint. There are a lot of places throughout the film where you can notice them: https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3907/14821471588_8b239aab16_o.png https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3894/14821452968_e2db34937b_o.png

Congratulations Diana, and good luck for Centurion!!

Blueprints like those? And the tutorial which goes with: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/6597-howto-make-a-holster/

Epic "Paint" skill battle , here's how i was refering mine:

Hey Derrek, if you refer to the drop box width, then your ends are too small . The end mesure more than half the width of the drop box on the RS pic. But nevertheless, this is small details, very small details...

I love those slight curves on the Sniper knee plate so it conforms better with the shin shape!! And i know it's too late, but IMO you cut too much on the ends of the ABS ammo belt. Here's a wonderful shot from Luke's belt, where you can really estimate the length of those:

Let's put it once and for all, even if all these informations can be found in the CRL, aren't relevant for EIB , and are extremely easy to find by looking at the Centurion applications... -You need 6 split rivets with a 8mm head (5/16") on the left side of your armor. 3 on the abdominal plate and 3 on the kydney plate: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26886-split-rivet-placement/ -You need 1 split rivet with a 8mm head (5/16") on the crotch tab of the cod. -You need 2 male snap on the crotch tab of the butt plate. -You need 1 male snap on the upper right corner of the abdominal plate: - You need 2 CAP rivets (=speed rivets) with a 7mm head (9/32") to affix the ammo belt on the right thigh: See your build thread for pictures And that's all the rivets/snaps you need in order to get CENTURION. You can do whatever you want for the rest as long as they're not visible from the outside.

Also don't forget to post pictures of your blaster if you ever want to be approved. Both sides and a back pic (for the D-ring). And Jason, although i mostly agree with you on your points, i clearly disagree on this one. And in the end it's the same thing than asking for the boots to be scuffed. Doesn't make sense if you stormtrooper is a shiny one:

The hengstler sits far too high at the moment. Keep in mind that they were glued in place to both the scope, but also to the main barrel body. Here your hengstler sits higher than the gun barrel. And as you stated above, the triggers needs to be more black. Your scope looks really wonderful though, i'm impressed by it. Well done on the paintjob!

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/23970-fs-centurion-level-rivet-sets/

Rivets head should be around 7mm (9/32"). And rivets should be CAP rivets for accuracy. The ammo pack ends shouldn't extend beyond the back/bottom corners of the thighs on both sides:

For EIB i would tapper more the ends of your frown. I know you love painting so it should a pleasure to do

It should be some space between the trigger and the trigger guard, even though with the Doopy the space is often very narrow. Pic courtesy of Aaron aka usaeatt2 When i look at your trigger it seems to me that your spring is too long, which makes it pushing the trigger out and touching the trigger guard. Compress your spring or shorten it and you should be better.

Ha ha, my bad Chris . Thank for the heads-up, i will edit my first post.

I'm predicting the hardest part of this build will be to part out with the armor! For sure it will be heartbreaking

I didn't even know 1mm armors do exist! It must be incredibly flexible and light! Lucky you are to have grabbed this . Is this armor for you or are you going to build it for someone else like the other? And indeed, the Hero TM lid is certainly the best there is up to now.

BTW, that extremely wide right bicep is in fact the left one. You are wearing them reversed. The left bicep armpit notch is kind of a continuous curve and it has a "thumbprint" on it, and the right biceps armpit notch is more in a "U" shape and doesn't have a "thumbprint". Here's an excellent way to reshape this biceps so it will be more rounded and then appear less big: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26919-my-first-esb-tk-build-mtk/#entry341132 The major points IMO are to reshape and resize this too wide biceps, and then to shorten the biceps/forearms straps to close the elbow gaps. I would also look for another holster, or at least modify this one, because overall it looks too big in it's proportions.

Crazy anecdote about this Africa trip! But sometimes old houses in the rural France can be cut from the internet, the TV and without enough cellphone network for internet. But don't get me wrong, i like it a lot, i'm easily stressed and making a break from internet is really relaxing. So for your next update, have you managed to make working the hengstler incrementation along with pressing the trigger? Edit: Oups, we posted at the same time . In the beginnig i admit it, i wasn"t really psyched about this mod, but i gotta say it's completely awesome!

Very nice indeed . However i just noticed you forgot to paint the ear bar rank on both ears, and i don't think there's one helmet on the film without them..

Damn, don't let us in the blind too long, i won't have an internet access for much longer and i would love to see this one painted before it happens

Completely unrelated but we have the same computer mouse . And the blaster looks really fantastic! And btw, who said you need power cylinders and hengstler to be ANH accurate? And of course, the Hero Luke's blaster

Don't worry, it's perfectly normal. Everyone needs to twist and turn to put or remove the helmet, even the actors on the film