The5thHorseman

Nice job, all done like it should be! And indeed removing more ABS from the return edge is a very good way to improve the flexibility if you ever need it.

Which then kind of reinforce the fact it might be a real scope that has been cast and from which several resin pulls have been made

The corners are cut just over 45 degree. Trim 10mm in from the top and bottom, and 13mm in from the sides. Most belts seem to have slightly more off the sides than the top and bottom. But before doing it, make sur your belt is rightly trimmed leaving no extra ABS above the top and bottom of the boxes:

Like Nick says.

You can take off more on every ones, except maybe the smallest one on the right hand side.

Everything looks excellent, and i think you did well sizing down the holster. And don't worry about being 2mm off, nobody cares (except you ) ! However, the corners of your ab button plates are too rounded, they should be at a 90° angle:

We know that all the scopes weren't real ones on the film and i've always thought that scopes with extra material at the top were in fact resin ones. This extra material being in fact resin residue from the pouring spout used in the molds. And when you look at the scope lens from the scene just before (it seems to be the same trooper) it looks like it is flat black to me, even though this is kind of hard to tell. About the piece of wire from the hengstler to the power cylinders, check out PlayfulWolfCub's work. He talks about it in one of his .pdf linked in his signature: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/17306-e-11-power-cylinders-research-thread-renamed-from-3-central-fuses/

Congratulations Tim, very nice looking blaster! You finally managed to finish it I would personally don't bother adding wires as no screen-used blasters had some.

Indeed! I hope you didn't ruined yourself buying it

Reminds me the way Bruce Willis negociates in the 5th Element I'm still personally opposed to that notch on the my AP but i'm glad it's going to be moved toward Centurion. Thank you Staff.

Holster positionning should be fine, a good thing to do about the belt though would be to unglue the end caps to relocate them closer to the edges of the main ammo belt:

Those shoulder bridges look fine to me. And if your really need to tape them down i guess it could be done by just adjusting the elastic which goes around the shoulder bridges

Great list Diana Lots of very good points. The number 3 especially talks to me at the moment as i remodeled a bathroom this summer and i went from an estimation of 3 weeks top to over a month and a half to finish it ^^

This should help you: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/tutorials/article/5-howto-post-images-on-the-forums/

Curious, i'd have thought that the vertical part of the notch would have been longer than the horizontal part.

Shoulder bells, biceps, and forearms are the same for both left and right arms on the AP armor.

I think you could also consider tapering more the ends of your frown, they're a bit square right now. Great looking armor otherwise!! Good luck with your application

Sskunky is the man! You can't go wrong going with him if your aiming for ROTJ.

I'm always impressed how you're always striving to push your MTK kit forward Mike . I wish all the armor makers were like you. My personnal thoughs about this CRL line: there's no way i will ever make this notch on my AP kydney plate, it's just stupid. I don't want to be told few months after that the offset between the horizontal part of the notch and the bottom line of the cod need to be affix as it's not accurate.

People usually use the ears screws which go through helmet to fasten the lenses inside it. Accurate and efficient: I can't figure what your talking about the "bigger rivets" though...

Yep, a beginner would tend to use masking tape for that . I did it too even though in the end i ended up removing the tape and made touch up everywhere! However i feel like your tubestripes are reversed, the ones which are supposed to be on the left cheek sit on the right one. The one/two firsts tubestripes should slightly lean forward at the top:

And is the chest piece really cracked under that tape? Looks super sharp and accurate mate! Keep going.

Congrats Diana, you made it!!

I kind of find it odd too that this detail is added right from beginning to the EIB level and not to Centurion. I also like to point out that making this noth on, for example AP kydney plates, won't make it more accurate as it will then create a shift with the cod piece which would be inaccurate. Some kydney plates are just too short in height for this feature to be added. It just solving a problem by adding one another...

This is really superb! Perhaps you could look in a way to add the two metal pins coming from the hegstler connector? And by the way, this magazine divot on the mag we were talking about some time ago, isn't that much inaccurate in the end