The5thHorseman

Gloves should also be textured on the inside if you look closely at the picture above.

Here's a pic with measurements: Yes you are slightly off regarding to this one, but it doesn't matter. They were all different on the film because of the hastily way of building. To me your TD looks good.

Awesome pictures! Looks almost straight from ROTJ

Sharp application! Good luck. I like the fact your shoulder bells and elbow gaps show little black. To me this is an important point in an EIB application and even more for a future Centurion one.

Looking forward for this build. And don't hesitate to ask your questions, people like me who have no armor left to build love answering them .

It's very nice to have comparison pics of these two different handguards makers. And i'm actually quite surprised by the scale difference between both. Isn't the rubber too white next to TM's ABS though? Also I'm glad you decided to stick with flexible handguards and chemical gloves. I have begun with ABS handguards and leather gloves, but now i love my flexible handguards too much to think of ever swapping back, and in addition it's more accurate .

Ha ha, that last picture is excellent And your helmet does look way much better. Very nice work. It's always difficult to go back on something we thought finished.

Thighs aren't usually strapped to the abdominal plate. People mostly wear a waist belt from which the thighs are hung, just like the original armors on the film. The belt is then hidden behind the abdominal and kydney plates. Looking at your picture, i think you could tapper more your thighs around the knees. They seem a bit wide and with some extra-room. And to ease the walk, as Andrew says, you can notch the back of your thighs at the bottom, and the top of your shins:

You have done a wonderful job on the weathering. Very nice patterns, they really look natural and it's not overdone. I would just add a strap between your forearms and biceps so they stick together, and then drop a little the biceps. And after that i think we could all just move along...

Yep, seems to be mostly AP. But the thighs are something else... unless they have been cut at the top?

Acrylics are easy to work with. They're easy to apply, easy to thin, easy to wash, etc... Enamels can more tricky if you're not used in dealing with paint and stuff like that, but i find them a lot more resistant. Once completely dried it's more difficult to damage or scratch them than acrylic based paints. However if you seal your acrylics with a good varnish once finished you should get a good protection too.

Just do like the others before you : http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16-501st-trooper-status-requests-include-link-to-your-501st-profile-in-your-request/page-140#entry363870

This HOWTO might answer some of your questions: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/tutorials/article/22-howto-assemble-thighs-butt-join-with-cover-strips/

Yes they are. You also use them to fasten the holster to the belt btw.

Thanks for the praises! I'm heading for a troop this Sunday, and it will be my first as an official FISD's Centurion Pressure!!

Convincing is the word. Nice work Nick! Have you a plan for the bubble lens?

Don't use pop rivet on your ammo thigh belt, please! Yes! Do that instead! If you use pop rivet you will have to remove and swap them for CAP rivets or split rivets later on in order to get EIB.

Germain Graziano 14492 Centurion A4 Thanks again sir! Edit: i've just noticed this is my thousandth post, what a timing

Thank you Steve! This went as smooth as i hoped. Feels weird to finally have these two badges under my username I will think about changing this holster one of these days, or see if i can remove the unnecessary stiches.

I can't say for sure but this might help you: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/tutorials/article/44-howto-assemble-am-armor-shins/

Good luck with your application Tim, the armor looks great! I think you have all what it needs for EIB but as i understood you're also planning to go for Centurion too. In this case i would attend with these two following points: - I've never seen any Hero helmet with unpainted ear bars rank, so i think it would be good to paint them. - Also on your forearms i would trim the wrist openings further on, until there's no return edges showing at all:

They're low just because Joey was greatly emulating this set of pictures: BTW Joey, you'd need a SE-R14 to make it even better

TKBoots are indeed much more white than TM's ABS so i guess they will need some good weathering! But you seem pretty good at this job, your blaster and helmet are here to attest it !

In the continuation of my EIB award, let's move onto Centurion Basic Information Name: GRAZIANO Germain LegionID: 14492 Forum Name: The5thHorseman Garrison: French Garrison Mandatory Information Armour Maker: AP Helmet Maker: AP Mic Tips: Trooperbay (modified) Blaster Maker: DVH mk.1 with improved power cylinders Optional Information: Height: 180 cm (5'11") Weight: 66.0 kg (145 lbs) Boots Maker: TK-Boots Canvas Belt: TKittel Hand Plates Type: Karin's alternative style - Rubber Neck seal Type: Trooperbay Holster Maker: Neo Kerberos (french source) Photos Full Body Front - Helmet off (no smile, sorry ) Front - Arms at side Left Side - Arms at side Left Side - Arm lifted Right Side - Arms at side Right Side - Arm lifted Back - Arms at side Armour Details Helmet (Ice Bucket Challenge has faded the weathering unfortunately) Helmet - Handpainting close-up Helmet - Green lens Helmet - S-trim Helmet - Mic Tips close-up Torso - Front and Back Torso - Flanks Torso - Internal strapping Abdominal Buttons - Details Crotch - Details Shoulder bridges - Elastics Arms Arms - Wrist openings Handguards - Flexible Belt - Details Belt - Full inner drop boxes Thermal Detonator - Details Thermal Detonator - Aluminium Clips Thighs - Cover stripes length Right Thigh - Ammo belt Shins Left shin - Sniper knee plate Shins - Hook closure Boots - Scuffed (as the armor) Action Shot Blaster Blaster - Right Side Blaster - Left Side Blaster - D-ring Blaster - Power Cylinders Note: I was personally opposed in doing the notches on the AP kydney plate because they wouldn't be on the right position, but i have given it more thoughs afterwards. The AP kydney plate is not really accurate from the beginning, so hurting it a little bit more isn't too bad. Moreover, if these notches are indeed a noticeable feature on accurate kydney plates, they are not on the AP kyney plate. The AP kydney plate being too short, these notches will always be hidden under the belt even if the belt is rightly set on the abdominal plate, making no difference if you have them or not. Thanks for your consideration . Germain