The5thHorseman

Don't be afraid to remove these back ridges if needed, on the original armors there was none. The only reason why there are some on the AP kit is because it's based on a ROTJ armor which is assembled by overlapping instead of using cover stripes.

RSprops all the way.

I would personally go for the brackets all the way but do whatever you prefer. In the end, if you'd like to make a test before deciding which way to go you can always stick with the snap plates and change for brackets later on.

It certainly won't go against anything stated in the CRL. It's just a matter of personnal taste as pretty much everything is seen on the screen-used helmets, even u-trims cut before the end of the trapezoid: -------------

I don't know if you have put webbing around your brackets like at the crotch, but if so, i would advise you to change it for elastic. When put under stress the webbing won't stretch at all, which means all the stress will be transferred to the brackets and the ABS, leading to high risks of cracks. And not having a return edge doesn't prevent you from using brackets. Have a look at the right/hand bracket on the kydney plate below for example:

Yes it should be that way. Just thave a look at how Luke and Han put and remove their helmet in the film. And the tighter the fit, the harder it is for people to see you from the neck opening.

I have no idea how you managed to carve out the space underneath the trigger area but this is stuning. I just hope it won't compromise too much the resistance of it. The folding stock's branches should kind of protect this area but a direct hit on it might be enough to break it. And this inner bolt man... Shiny!

That's better for sure.

Very important point Derrek mentionned above. Be sure to proceed as he says.

Yes, drop boxes constructed that way shall be Centurion acceptable, and indeed that's my tutorial The boxes don't actually need to open. As i handmade mine, the fit is really tight and the airlock is enough to secure the halves together, but some glue them, some use velcro, or magnets. Edit: all the pics on my tuto are now hosted on flickr rather than imageshack. Still don't know why i used this terrible host in the first place...

As Steve says, this requirement means the inner boxes must have walls:

Beautiful, really beautiful... That's definitely on my wish-list.

Looks like you figured out how to link pics on a post You two are looking splendid. There's nothing better than to troop in family!

Ha ha, yes i figured it out myself Still, it's clear that both are awesome DLTs.

Really cool! Nice work, it should match very well with your armor

Ooh, nice replica! Will you fasten it to the belt like seen on screen?

Funny how at the beginning we all love the low brow . But the more i look at stormtrooper helmets the more i prefer ones with high brows. Good luck with the ears

Thanks for the comparison pics. Pity you didn't tag the DLTs on the pics though . I agree some features are more accurate on the ASH but on your pics i find the Doopy sharper. It's maybe different in real however.

Excellent! Really good job with the return edges. Adding one at the bottom of the kydney and top of the butt plate, and on the kydney notches really makes a difference.

The rivet is a split rivet with an 8mm head, left unpainted.

Good to hear that you can't further be approved with a FX or MRCE helmet. I know our GML in the French Garrison was already rejecting approvals with these helmets, but now it's official!

Teeth trimming is spot on! Excellent work

It's just an accurate feature that original armors had. Not to be trimmed!

Right arm.

Superb! You're handpainting is really awesome. The best i've seen One thing i noticed on Han's helmet though, there's a gap between the lens and the faceplate on the left eye opening: --------------