The5thHorseman

Just to be clear, your belt should look like this when finished:

Well, among other tweaks your main problem if you want to go for Centurion is the fact your armor is assembled with the overlap technic instead of the butt-joint (use of cover stripes). I can see few cover stripes, like in front of the thighs and the shins, but otherwise it seems to be overlapping everywhere else. Also your right shin closes the wrong way. The outer half should overlap the inner half, like on your left shin. And, i'm not sure but i wouldn't be surprise if you were wearing the right forearm on your left arm, and vice versa. And, one thing that should have been done before your basic approval, you should have a black elastic glued at the bottom of the shoulder bells and wrapping around the top of the biceps:

That's that.

There are few things that can be improved but as Rich says, the armor looks already great! One common thing is the fact you are wearing your shoulder bells reversed. At the bottom of the middle ridge, one of the shoulder bell has a flare, this is the one that goes on the left/hand shoulder. The other one has none and goes on the right/hand shoulder, like the trooper below: Also, you can shave a bit more on the right side of your abdominal plate. This will make the male snap at the top to be located at the right distance from the edge: I can see on one of your pic that your left shin has ridden over the top of your boot so you might need to check for a way to prevent that in case it would happen to often. And even if on your pictures where you have had padding to your armor it looks better, on your first set of pics your drop boxes are all over the place. Their outer edge should be aligned with the end of the ABS belt. Basically when you snap the belt to the ab plate, just make sure the elastic of the drop boxe is stuck between the outer rivet and the snap on the inside.

If your belt rides over your butt plate in the back, it's because it's set too low on your abdominal plate. The top of the ABS belt should be right under the ab buttons or slightly overlapping them. I would also, shorten the length of the arm straps, as you've got too much gap between the bottom of your biceps and top of the forearms. It's better to have a wrist gap than an elbow gap:

Try again :

That's better! Just need to fill the hole with ABS paste now. Fortunately, it will mostly be hidden behind the chest plate, so no need to be absolutely reproachless. BTW now that we have a close-up of the ab, why not also shaving the remaining ABS flash for a cleaner look? :

The guy running this is a french member SL 6461 (but inactive for now) who is architect and travels a lot to China for his work where he deals with producters there to make his boots, gloves, etc... He does a pretty wide range of products and even if i've never ordered from him yet, the quality seems excellent. I have never heard of any bad feedbacks about him too.

What can we say apart from astonishing work?! That's the spirit

Congratulations! If you have a dremel, i'm sure you can drill through this male snap by the inside. Just make sure you don't overheat the ABS around by either doing it in several steps, or by spilling water on it during the process. If you don't have a dremel, i managed once to remove a snap with a holepunch (but i ruined it...).

Looks perfect! Very nice handpainting

Killer weathering! Wonderful helmet.

That's not what i meant. I talked about the OD increase of the pipe for the end cap:

Your work is really too clean for a human being... And about the lip around the holes, you will have to sand a part of the pipe for the bayonet lug area so i guess you can wait until then to take the decision to sand the whole thing or not. I wonder though, how will you handle the rear lock on the pipe for the end cap as the OD isn't the same there?

Yes, they're too wide. You should get rid of the ridges, they're here only for bigger people, and i quote Mark from AP:

Must be kidding... Newey's size 4 hooks! And the break on top of the sniper knee plate is spot on! This is going to be completely awesome . True replica spirit.

I had seen you finished your molds but i'm glad to hear you will make a costume for you. It'll be a fountain of knowledge about how to assemble a snowtrooper armor for sure.

Actually, i would have paid the $50 too, as your t-tracks look really awesome. Thanks for offering us, e-11 builders, this new option. This is much appreciated!

I'm using Chrome and here's the box Derrek talked about. On the left once you've hit the "View New Content" button:

Once again, congrats, the armor is looking wonderful. I don't think you will have any problems with EIB but you lack some required pictures of your helmet (sides, and back) which can slows down your application. For Centurion though, you will have to fully trim the return edges at the wrist opening on your forearms. There should be none at all: You will also need to address that slight overlap you have between your kydney and back plates. And the gaps along your sides might become an issue too, even if i've seen some troopers approved anyway with similar looking gaps. And if the rivets on your left side are well located, the male snap on the right side of your abdominal plate is set too far from the edge of the plate:

It would be kind of a pity to spoil the extreme lightness of the carbon fiber with heavy real parts. I'm looking forward to see what you'll do with it!

Yes but they can also be very thick, it depends on which belt you're looking at: However, i think you should make match the inner and outer drop boxe thickness

It's hard to say ragarding the size and quality of your pics, but i'm pretty sure you are wearing your shoulder bells on the wrong shoulder. The one without any flare at the bottom goes on the right/hand shoulder like on the picture below:

Congratulations trooper! Well done

Good job on your action pic, so... ...why not doing the same on the "helmet off" pic?