The5thHorseman

Hi Jason and welcome. Armor scuffing/weathering does not make your ANH armor ineligible for Centurion. It's even better as most of the stormtroopers you see on screen have a battle-damaged look. And as Derrek said, you can use B&W newspaper, moist it, and then rub it against your armor's edges to make a light an easy good-looking weathering. Make them free float at the back for both. There's no need for velcro at this location, the elastic bands are enought to keep them tight with the back plate and you will avoid possible trouble with ANH Centurion. No, just make the drop boxes removable. There are dozen of ways to do that and it's quite easy when you think about it. e.g: once the elastic strap is looped around the belt, instead of riveting it to the inner drop boxe, just use a chicago screw or just a screw and a nut. Paint them for both ANH and HWT. The only rivet left unpainted is the crotch split rivet. As for the drop boxes, fasten your holster to the belt in a removable way: pop rivets and snaps, chicago screws...

Beautiful armor! Well done

1) It doesn't matter, but i think you'll have a better grip using the B option. Just be sure to leave an excess of around half an inch where the two parts of the trim meet so once compressed it place it can stay in place by itself 2) Satin black Edit: About the "disaster ear", here's how i would trim it if i were to attempt fixing it: - And once the trimming done, i would reinstall the ear and the two top screws and then force the curved section to get closer to the cheek and screw it again, without being afraid to tighten it hard (3/ on the picture).

Do you apply the glue like said in the instructions? On both surfaces, wait for 10mn until it feels dry when touched, then clamp together? I bet you do, but just in case... Also before trying again, you can try to fill the recesses in the shoulder bridges with ABS tabs in order to increase the gluing surface for a better bond.

Best looking AM helmet i've seen so far. Congrats!

Like you said, cut the end closer the screw hole. It will be more accurate and also bring down the panel. Nothing difficult to do if you have a dremel. Just draw a guiding line where you want to cut, make sure the clip won't move and just cut through it. Watch for the heat but you shouldn't have too much trouble here. You can also easily do that with a hand-hacksaw if you prefer. If you're not confident, practise few times just above your final cut line.

I'll be following this. There's almost no ROTJ build threads around. About reference pictures, there are few excellent and very interesting pictures about the strapping used for ROTJ in the newly released book "Star Wars Costumes: the Original Trilogy". If you haven't seen them or don't have the book, i can send them to you by PM if you're interested.

It depends on which stormtrooper version your are going for. If ROTJ, then CFO would be your choice, otherwise choose AP for ANH or ESB stormtroopers. Even if AP used to be a ROTJ based kit, it has now been altered to look like ANH (and thus ESB). Stormtrooper ANH Stunt Stormtrooper ESB Stormtrooper ROTJ

Glad to hear it's moving on again! About the ab button plates, something you should consider modifying before gluing them is to square the angles. They aren't supposed to be rounded as you can see on the picture below:

Nice little tweaks you did, even if the velcro for the shoulder bridges kinda hurt me . Sure, the bridges will stay in place nicely on a mannequin but i wonder if they wouldn't become noisy when in motion? And that neckseal from Veedox is really nice, i wish i had the same. I just don't know if Stunts had a full tabard like that though.

A good thing to do would be to shorten the straps that go from the top of the shoulder bells to the shoulder bridge straps. It's an easy but also quite efficient way to help reducing the gaps of you have at the shoulders at the moment.

Very nice job on the blaster!! Well done.

This "difference" is just due to a different angle of view.

Congratulations! Welcome to EIB.

TM did!

Nice action pic. Using a different helmet than the AM one really makes a difference! Agreed.

Good job, however the top screw should be much closer to the end of the aluminium clip: Should be an easy fix!

Doopy kits used to come with a really bad scope rail in resin, though i don't know if it's still the case as i haven't seen one in a while, certainly because no one uses it. If you plan to build a DD kit Sean, i wouldn't recommand you to use it, flat aluminium bars are easy to find, either locally or via vendors on this forum.

There's a lot of pictures available here that might be helpful to you: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/album/40-sterling-l2a3-mk-4/3 Once again, thank goes to Aaron.

Nothing beats the real thing! Great job Derrek and very nice blaster to own Dennis.

Yep, that's that. (ça m'a fait bizarre de voir du français, je m'y attendais pas !)

1. It's off course better if they lay flat against each other, but if you have a small gap between them, it won't affect the strength of the bond. 2. Correct, the cover stripe doesn't extend up to the bottom ridge. However, if you don't cut this small overlap you have left before gluing the cover stripes, i'm pretty sure it will mess with the alignment and gluing step. If you have a gap, on the right thigh it doesn't matter as it will be hidden by the ammo knee belt, but it will give you the occasion to practise the trimming before doing it on the left thigh. And if ever you were to have a gap on the left thigh, you could always make some ABS paste to fill it, even if it doesn't really necessitate it. 3. No consensus on this point. I don't know if there's one way to do it better than another.

About the sniper knee plate, the key for me has been to flatten the ridge of the outer/left wing. This way i was able to set the SKP sligthly higher than before on this side and minimize the crooked look:

The important point is for the end cap to be almost edge to edge with the en of the ABS ammo belt. On the pictures above it's the case, it's just that the tab of ABS is a bit shorter than what it should be.

Your biceps aren't too low. On the contrary, they are where they should be regarding your height. It's just that on your pics, especially the ones with the right arm lifted, i would have bet you had no black strap at the bottom of the shoulder bells.