The5thHorseman

The thumbprint should be on the left biceps, so you better remove it on the right one . I vote to remove it for the right biceps.

Blaah, too freaking perfect... That's not fun!

To reduce the forearm size, your best option is to cut the excess from the back joint. The originals didn't have any raised ridge at the back to allow such "tailoring". However if you decide to go that way, be aware that they'll become a lot more harder to close and glue together. Be sure to have strong magnets and some boiling water for shape adjustments.

The corners were sometimes cut, and sometimes left square. I guess it's just another good example of the randomness involved during the build of the original armors. Here's a good example of both ways on one pic (just forget the rivets):

I'm glad you decided to drill those rivets and reposition the faceplate. As Gaz said, there shouldn't be any gap between the brow and the face (or at least not that much).

There's already thousands threads about that here, or on another sites. http://starwarshelmets.com/original-stormtrooper-helmets-sub-submenu.htm

Here you go: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28806-silkscreened-style-esb-helmet-decals/

Don't look at the picture next to the price tag but at those in the description.

Originally the rivets that went there were CAP rivets with a 7mm head. If you can find some that could be nice. You can see what they look like in this thread: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/23970-fs-centurion-level-rivet-sets/

Yes, you'll be fine. And you will see that once all suited up together, it's not going to be that much noticeable.

As you're based in the UK, i would try to contact TrooperMaster or RS Props before all these US based makers quoted above. They're the best when it comes to stormtroopers, and even though the helmet will be more expensive, you will almost save the difference with the packaging and postage. You can reach both via FB, or you can PM Paul aka "Troopermaster" here on the FISD. And RS also has a website available.

Merry Christmas Michael! Enjoy your well-deserved FISD gift

Oups, scope is on backwards! And the hengstler is quite far from the magazine. If you could find a way to get it closer it would look better. Have a look at the picture i posted above for reference if needed.

Clever way to mount the inner barrel inside. I like the idea.

Just in case it's the one you're "missing", the bottom row of holes where the bayonet lug is, isn't supposed to be covered by any t-track.

Each time i see this blaster i'm really amazed by how real it looks... I'm sure it must have been a funny work to tweak around with these two hengstlers! And the result is excellent .

I like your style, no muss no fuss, just fast progress! The blaster looks very good. If you need t-tracks for it, i'd recommand these: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29188-new-t-track/

Congratulations Michael. Well deserved award!

Hum, i don't know. For ANH i would tend to say "preserve the return edge" and thus use the bottom trim line, however ROTJ has that white gasket that goes all around the armor's edges, so i guess you're right and you should indeed use the upper trim line.

I think you'd be better doing that. With that kind of second hand helmet, unlike you can see it in hand and buy it from a reliable person or a friend, you're never completely safe from bad surprises.

Great work so far. And don't worry, notching the back of the thighs and shins is perfectly fine with screen-used armors:

This looks like an ATA or a recast of it for me, so quite a good helmet. However, the handpainting is a disaster and will need to be completely re-done anew, the ears seem riveted instead of screwed so rivets will need to be drilled and replaced, and the neck trim hasn't the correct "s" shape. Depending on the price it might worth to consider buying it, but there's work involve in it if you want to make it approvable. You may be better to buy a new kit to begin with. Edit: Looking at the inside pic again, i really don't know how the ears are fastened. Maybe glued...?

Perfect!!

Yeah, in fact i was really amazed by how the armor fits you despite you're 1m70. Definitely impressive!

Well Michael, i had a second look at your armor and in fact every of these details aren't relevant for Centurion, so... Move along! However, one other thing you could do with your thermal detonator would be to cut the excess of aluminium you have above the top screw holes of your clips, then unglue the main panel, and reglue it near the new cut: And you seem to have a slight misalignment between your kydney and abdominal plates on your right side, which i think could be fixed by lengthening a bit the strap that goes from the chest to the ab.