The5thHorseman

There's no correct "amount" of biceps to be hidden inside the shoulder bell because this is not relevant when strapping the arms together. The key thing is to strap the biceps with the forearm with an elastic strap leaving no gap between them. And basically you're done. If you want to add a strap between the biceps and shoulder bell for more safety then just sleeve the biceps w/ forearm, position your elbow at the junction between both, and then you have the "correct" position of your biceps. Interesting read about the matter: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19372-correct-bicep-to-forearm-connection-anhesb-video-and-photo-references/

My heart skipped a beat... Wunderbar!! That blaster definitely deserves a stand and you did an excellent work with yours. Superb!

RS Props are more than trustworthy. They'll get your armor done and shipped to you, even if they exceed a bit the schedule. Don't worry too much. It would also help to know if you have purchased the armor in kit form or fully assembled to estimate the waiting time.

Why? Well, because that's how it was made on the film . In fact, i believe they widened the shins cover stripes only to help hiding the holes they made for the hooks. And when you think about it, if 20mm is enough to close the front, why wouldn't it be enough for the back? However, just to settle things, nothing prevents you to make the back cover stripes for the thighs 25mm wide, it is very common and well accepted (i even have my own cover stripes 25mm, rookie mistake!).

25mm is only for the back of the shins, the back cover stripes for the thighs are 20mm like the front ones .

Pretty much wrong. The difference between Hero and Stunt isn't related to whom is wearing the armor but by the Helmet. Here are two "Hero" and they're not Luke and Han: Dan, here are two pictures to help you visualizing the differences between Stunt and Hero. On a side note, originally Hero helmets were pulled directly from white ABS while the Stunts were pulled in a khaki material and then painted white. Good luck with your build!

Superb! I've never seen it before too. Is it genuine or fan made?

Walt, let me join to the others and offer you my most sincere congratulations! The GGG can be proud .

Hi Micheal, About the extras needed for a build, Billhag's diagrams summarize it pretty well: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28527-tk-build-tool-kit-list/?p=362225

To incrust a video i have used these tags before and it worked well: [flash=420,315]link to your video[/flash*] Just remove the * before trying it out.

Walter, your armor is truly looking superb! All the hard work you've put into it has really paid off . One thing i'd like to point out is the fact your kidney notches are far exceeding the 22mmx22mm "rule" because of your shims. I personally think it is a great thing to have modify their dimensions so the vertical part of the notch still lines up with the butt plate and i hope it won't hinder your application:

Lol, i discovered i can do that too during my last troop! Invaluable when trooping with shy kids .

Here you go Steve, at least those two Stunts behind Leia are wearing alternative handguards:

Congratulations Hideki, well deserved!

How wide are the front flat sections? There should be around 20mm wide. To give yourself some more room, like you say, i would unglue the front and reglue them more spaced.

Yet another killer TM build! You have done an outstanding job, congratulations!! Your helmet paintjob and weathering is excellent. If i have one thing to say is that your belt sits a bit low on your abdominal plate and thus, across your back too. It should be right under the ab buttons or slightly covering them:

There you go: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16-501st-trooper-status-requests-include-link-to-your-501st-profile-in-your-request/

I too ! Great work updating your stuff Walter, even for small details like this.

Here's my Flickr album of the SW7 trailer with frame by frame captures during the Stormtrooper boarding sequence. See if you can get what you're looking for in it.-------------

Before installing the folding stock, don't forget that "signature" barrel cut near the muzzle if you want to go replica. Edit: This cut shouldn't be on every Sterling, i'm just saying it should be there for that particular e-11 replication.

Front flat sections for the thighs should be around 20mm anyway, and if you need more ABS or shims to close them (which i doubt you will) you'll go wider at the back. And i wouldn't be surprised if JC has larger thighs than you have. When assembling the thighs, like for the forearms, the outer half covers the inner half, just like you're doing . Edit: Biceps seems ok. It's a bit difficult to tell because your tape is right one the junctions which are the interesting areas, but from what i can see it looks good. And don't hesitate to give a quick sanding along the lines where you have cut, it takes 2mn and it will avoid it to scratch your skin or undersuit .

I was hanging around a little more because i was really looking forward to see the Staff who was going to handle this dreading upcoming year (at least i find it intimidating); new highly anticipated stormtroopers, new ways of buildings, everyone will be a noob, new CRL to build up, tiers to be made, ... scary! So first of all congratulations, i think the staff is great and will be up to the job. I'm glad to see the return of WideAMG (or squeaky, whatever ), his build thread was one of the best i followed. Tim as FISD ambassador? Well, seems obvious! I would love to see Manny (TehCaveman) appointed as one of those Merch Deputies though, might be thorn in the side but i think that could be a good thing. So good luck to everyone in the Staff and as a first deed of making the FISD warmer i think i'm going to start belittling people of another forum . I won't vanish but i think i will really step down from comments.

I don't see it mentionned in your EIB thread by Gazmosis so it may not interfere with your application, but basically, your split rivets placement on the left side of your armor is wrong. They are too close from each others, especially the top ones which should be much closer to the top edge. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26886-split-rivet-placement/

Both sides should be notched at the bottom.