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The5thHorseman

501st Member[501st]
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Everything posted by The5thHorseman

  1. Here's some close-ups of the decal: I don't remember having seen one but i'll keep an eye open if ever i come across a picture of the underneath, and front of the blaster. Edit: It ain't what you're looking for but this one might be of some interest too:
  2. The only down side to the e6000+Paint combo is that the Stelmax 1985 glue is a really strong adhesive that tends to warp a little the areas where it is glued with the ABS. You won't get that effect with e6000.
  3. Well, unfortunately what i can say is that your tubestripes are reversed. You used the stencil for the left cheek and the right cheek and vice versa. You see, the top of the first stripes are supposed to sligthly lean toward the front, but on your helmet it's the bottom that does that:
  4. It's hard to cross post from the RPF as the pictures hosted on it can't be copy/pasted on another board. But the topic is public and everyone can access it. In fact, it's just the adapter for the e-11 which goes onto the thigh rig that would need this method to be removed. The blaster might be easier to attach.
  5. Keep in mind this all pure conjecture so far : http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=238870
  6. Sorry, i haven't seen anything surfacing yet. The guys from the "gun departement" are still trying to identify it . If it is a found part of course.
  7. I hope you'll visualize things better with these pictures:
  8. Congratulations and welcome to Centurion Marc!
  9. The mic tips and vocoder appear to be the same kind of black and I have never seen any mic tips gloss, so i wouldn't do the vocoder gloss either. Satin black seems like the way to go to me.
  10. There's a little thing that jumped at me when looking at it, the orientation of the mesh under the nose plate is off: Maybe this orientation comes down to how the helmet is assembled so this little detail might be irrelevant, but just i case i thought i'd mention it before molds are done.
  11. Might be a good thing to forward your GML this link: http://www.starwarshelmets.com/CfO_Armor_Helmet.htm
  12. AP is the last child of a long lineage of recast from an original armor... but a ROTJ one. The molds have then been modified to look more like ANH. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26479-armour-family-tree/ About the notch, even if i agree with you and said i'd never do it, i do have revised my opinion as i said in my Centurion thread: "Note: I was personally opposed in doing the notches on the AP kydney plate because they wouldn't be on the right position, but i have given it more thoughs afterwards. The AP kydney plate is not really accurate from the beginning, so hurting it a little bit more isn't too bad. Moreover, if these notches are indeed a noticeable feature on accurate kydney plates, they are not on the AP kyney plate. The AP kydney plate being too short, these notches will always be hidden under the belt even if the belt is rightly set on the abdominal plate, making no difference if you have them or not."
  13. Is he aware your armor is a ROTJ?!? I can understand the issue with the trim color, but the helmet and the shoulder bells...
  14. As long as his lower rivet is above the cod line, he shouldn't have any troubles with the kidney cut out.
  15. The good thing is audience doesn't denigrate ROTJ as the 501st does ! So you'll make as many pictures as we, ANH folks, do .
  16. I like your attitude ! Good luck with that. About implementing it to the CRL, perhaps just change the current CRL pictures for side views showing the rivets would be enough.
  17. I am sorry Marc, this is something we missed during your EIB application, but your split rivets positioning on your abdominal and kidney plates is wrong... The tops rivets are good but the four others may need to be relocated depending on Gazmosis' judgement. While waiting for it, here's a thread that explains how to properly place the side rivets: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26886-split-rivet-placement/ Otherwise your armor still looks really great!
  18. I wouldn't be that much pessimistic, i'm sure it will be as simple to get approved with this kit than any others . You just will have to assemble it properly.
  19. Looks great! Excellent work! I think your thighs could be pulled up a little though. It should ease your walking, especially when climbing stairs.
  20. This helpful member sounds right to me. Not only the MTK is cheaper, it is also more accurate than AP if you aim for an ANH/ESB stormtrooper. Mike has done some very nice mods to his molds to improve his kit's accuracy. I've built an AP and it hasn't been a very easy build, i highly doubt MTK will be harder. To me, all pros are pointing to MTK. One thing to take into consideration is, as Scott says, that MTK can adapt to someone with a larger waistband without having to add shims while AP kit is a lot smaller and mostly dedicated to slim guys.
  21. Salut, Etant donnée que le Royaume-Uni fait parti de l'Union Européenne (même si ça va peut-être pas durer) il ne devrait y avoir aucuns frais de douane grâce à la libre circulation des biens entre les différents pays membres. En tout cas, l'armure de RS est l'une des meilleures disponibles donc très bon choix !
  22. By the way, i don't remember if i've seen it posted on the FISD, but for those interested by this costume, the stock from this gun might interest you if you like "found parts": ---------------- Of course, the Prop Department from SW7 might have slightly modified it afterwards, but it is for sure the correct base to work from.
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