The5thHorseman

Man, you're killing me!! The most blatant thing for me right now is that I need to totally review my End Cap. I relied too much on the Sterling L2A3 End cap when I modelled it and seeing your pictures I realize I have pretty much everything wrong. But, for anyone who had his doubts, I think the renders you already posted show how genuine your CAD model is.

I'm picking numerous tiny details I had never seen before indeed. Very interesting. You just sent me back to my drawing board!

I'm not sure if Shawn is the same Shawn who did this amazing replica of the Nostromo pistol from A L I E N, and also the Se-14r from A New Hope, but if so I'm sure you guys will manage! That's still going to be a lot of work for sure.

Yes, a gloss red might be better. For the white, I don't think it has to match the white of the armor, but I guess there's nothing wrong if it does. As long as it's a gloss white, it's the most important.

I can definitely attest of the high quality! I see you even have the notch for the switch carved into the magazine right where it should be. That "Mid Grade Hero" blaster will be beautiful! (love the way of naming it by the way)

Actually I used the Humbrol #60. Not that I would recommand it though, it's just because that's what I had in hand at the moment. I think the satin red should do fine.

By the way Ken, will your version be the big sized blaster or the smaller version?

I think you guys should focus on doing the armor that goes with first, but...

I've got a magic trick for you. Measure something on the found part you bought, take the picture of the RO backpack, report the previously measured dimension to it and use that as a scale.

I'm afraid she can!

I remember having badly injured one of my eye a year ago. It was so bad that I couldn't keep any of them open and had to stay in complete darkness with both eyes shut for a whole week, and only slowly recovered sight during the following week. That was a very tough, and boring (basically a week spent lying in my bed unable do to anything), experience. So I hope this is not as bad for you Ken .

Probably the most disrespectful post I ever read on FISD.

Lookalike is important here. It looks very close to the SE-14r we're used to, but it has few minor differences.

Once again, it's not the point. All those details are... details! I don't care about all that. What I'm (and think most of the guys who dislike this new armor) don't like is the armor in is whole. The awful chestplate, the Master Replica looking helmet, the ugly thighs, and else. When you look at this Rogue armor it has nothing to do in term of look with the originals from ANH that were talently handsculted by real artists.

Of course. Even with a bigger difference. The original ANH armors had painted helmets painted in white that didn't match the colour of the ABS.

Yes, there will probably be a difference in colour if you buy the RS armor in ABS. The ABS they're using as an off-white colour just like the original when ANOVOS' ABS is bright white. However, if you buy the RS armor in PVC instead of ABS, the colour difference with ANOVOS will probably be very minimal.

The cream of the crop. Not doubt about it!

Come on Jonathan, you ID'd nothing. You just read "Parts of SW" Facebook page... http://www.wgcshop.com/products?search_From=category&item=vfc-original-parts--hk416c-aeg-stock-assembly-complete

One thing I've come to really respect is a maker's word when he says someone is recasting his work. When you've created something, that's strange but you can recognize it in a glimpse afterwards. You know all the little kinks and specificities of it. Just like I can recognize a F-11D printed from my 3D files immediatly, I'm not surprised Kevin immediatly identified his sculpts into the FN armor.

Now that's a trooper who troops! Hats off to you Mr FireBlade, we don't see enough people who put their armor to the test like that. I have few mentors I hope to meet one of those day too. I'm happy to hear you've been able to do that Rich!

Thanks Ben.

Last part of the build today. Scope Mount assembly. First I glued the two scope knobs. No welding here because just like for the handle grips, I might swap them for better prints later. After that I welded the two halves of the scope mount Scope assembly. You can see here that I smoked the two lenses. Nothing professional at all, just a light layer of airbrushed black. To begin I secured the rear scope rail with the scope mount using a M3 screw. The same screw is then used to secure the scope body with the scope mount. In order to do that the screw must be at least 40mm long. I finished by gluing the two eye rings, without forgetting to insert the two lenses inside the rings before. I also paid attention to which face of the lenses was oriented toward the outside, because the face that is airbrushed with black paint has a matte finish and no reflections, so I made sure this face was oriented toward the inside of the scope. Finally I welded the scope unit with the rest of the blaster. Little mistake from my part here. When I think back about it, I should have made a small recess to the bottom face of the white part of the scope rail, and then use a screw going from under the scope rail to the front foot of the scope mount. This way I would have been able to dismount it. Rear barrel assembly. Not much to do here, only securing the rear sight with a M3 screw, and welding the cocking handle. Hengstler assembly: Before anything I glued behind the cover a small piece of plastic to give the illusion of glass. It’s not very accurate but it looks nice. For now the red lighting will be done by using balloon lights. The hengstler is secured to the rear barrel by using two M3 screws going from inside the hengstler, through the hengstler bracket, to the rear barrel. The hengstler is then closed by securing its cover with a M3 screw. Tactical Stock assembly. The cheek rest got secured to the tactical stock body using two M4 screws on each side. Same thing for the End Cap using two M4 screws. Finished unit: For now the tactical stock is only plugged into the rear barrel. The fit is quite tight and feels secure enough but if not I will weld it. Finished rear half of the blaster. The two halves: I wanted to have the possibility to remove the rear half of the blaster. So in order to be able to slide the rear barrel on and off, I had to make a small notch to the folding stock so the heads of the screws didn’t get in the way. Once slid all the way in, the rear barrel is secured to the rest of the blaster using two M3 screws going through the folding stock. Almost finished blaster. Only the magazine is missing. Magazine assembly. First I welded the white end cap to the magazine (if you’re planning for electronics, it might be better to do that in last). Then I positioned the power cylinders on the magazine and sanded the surfaces. I glued the power cylinders instead of welding because once again I may upgrade them for a better print in the future. Just like for the hengstler I cut a small piece of plastic that I glued underneath the pills openings. Red light is just a balloon light for now. Magazine ready for bolting. Once slid over the wooden block, the magazine is bolted to the barrel hub using two M3 screws. Finished blaster: (Now believe it or not but this picture is actually exactly the hundredth of this build. How cool is that?) Size comparison between the Heavy F-11D and DDay’s Standard size F-11D. Finally the 3D render vs its physical version. I'm quite happy with how it turned out. I reckon some parts could have use some more smoothing, but overall it looks really nice in hand. It's also very light, which for such a big blaster is a real good point. In the future I’m planning to make proper electronics for the magazine and hengstler, have decals printed, and probably have the forward grip inserts I talked about earlier printed too. That would be all. Cheers, T5H.

I've seen some really great smoothing results with XTC. I think the the keywith it is to be patient and use several light coats instead of a big one to avoid warping too much the parts. No I won't. I'm not an electronics guy at all, and don't know if I would even be able to wire something like that. I will probably try to install some electronics into the hengstler and magazine though, but that will be all.

I've searched a little for your name and work on the internet after your post on my topic, and yes you seem extremely talented. I'll be looking forward to what this replica will look like. I must say with a SLA and Waterjet 3D printers you can create pretty much anything a lot more easily, as long as you have the CAD skills, which you obviously seem to have. Can we have more informations about from where the 3D model comes from? Did you design the master model used for the film? Or did you scan an original to create your CAD model?

Front barrel assembly First I made sure the white ring was lining up good, and welded it to the front muzzle. Then I secured the front muzzle to the barrel using the two front M6 screws. Making sure it was oriented the right way first, I welded the bottom of the Front Sight 2 part to the front muzzle only. Lastly I welded the Front Sight 1 part. However I only welded its front foot to the front muzzle, the rear one is only fitted into its slot. This way I’m still able to remove the front muzzle if needed by removing the screws and sliding it out sideways. Once complete the Front Barrel got welded with the Barrel Hub. Handle and Rear Folding Stock assembly. I first started by gluing the black textured grips to the handle. I didn’t weld them because even if they’re not looking bad at all, I’m not excluding to have them printed in a better resolution and change them later. So I needed them to be removable. I then put a chunk of glue inside the hole for the spring in the Trigger 2 part and slid it into position while making sure the spring end was fitting inside the hole. After the Trigger 2, I chose to secure the Trigger 1 to the Folding Stock. The pin going through the trigger is glued on each side using e6000. I first wanted to epoxy it, but as the epoxy is yellow I didn’t want to take the chance to spoil the paintjob around. The rest is only bolting parts together. First I put the four M4 bolts to the handle. They have no function and here only for show. Once done, I secured the handle with the folding stock. First I put the two M4 screws going from the inside of the folding stock to the handle. Those screws are required at all, I’m just using them for extra safety. Then I used two M3 screws to secure the rear folding stock tabs to the handle. Finally I secured the front of the trigger guard with the folding stock by using two M3 screws. The hole present ahead of the two screws is here for the folding stock bottom cover’s screw. You can stop at this point if you want of prefer this look. The bottom cover is optional. I wanted to have the bottom cover so I inserted it into position. Two alignment tabs are present on the part to make this easy to do. Once in position I secured it with the folding stock and handle using the third M3 screw hole. The finished unit. Once the whole handle/Folding Stock unit finished I welded it to the bottom of the Barrel Hub. Front Folding Stock assembly. First I added the M3 screw between the forward grip hinge and the folding stock. To be honest this screw is not accurate and doesn’t really serve anything. But I wasn’t sure to be able to weld PLA parts together so I added it to my model for extra safety because overall I haven’t much trust into glue alone. The black inserts on the forward grips are only paint in black for now because the more I look about it, the more I don’t believe this whole idea of textured rubber material. To me it looks like textured 3D printed inserts, just like for the handle grips. When you think about it, those three screws present on the bottom face of the forward grip would be of no use at all is the material was rubber as the sides would fold over and need glue anyway. But if the sides are glued, what’s the need for these three screws? That’s part why I now think this insert is a U shaped 3D printed insert secured to the forward grip with these three bottom screws. Before painting I checked the length of the screws I would need to use to secure the forward grip to its hinge. After that I welded the flashlight tip inside the folding stock tip. I just made sure to put the batteries inside the flashlight first as it’s easier done before the parts are welded together, even if not impossible after. Then I inserted the folding stock tip into the front of the folding stock and used the channel present in the top of the folding stock to put the safety M3 screw. The purpose of this screw is to prevent the folding stock tip to fall off. Side note: I was tempted to paint the whole folding stock tip but in the end I painted only its outside part because the fit between the two parts was already quite tight, and with the thickness of the paint there was high chance they wouldn’t have fitted together anymore. Finished unit. Folding Stock reuniting. On this picture you can see the notch made to the underside of the front barrel for the head of the safety screw holding the folding stock tip. The front part of the folding stock is only plugged with the rear part of the folding stock (no glue), and then secured to the front barrel using a M4 screw. And I think it’s going to wrap us for today. The rest later. T5H.