Nagedzi

I still think you can install the screws and use whatever internal strapping system you fancy. If you did choose to use a modern method, there'd be zero stress placed on the screw holes in the return edges. For those concerned about long term durability, this would be the best of both worlds.

I say line up the elbow end of the forearms. The return edge (the lip) of the wrist end is supposed to cut off anyway. Edit: On second read, maybe I misunderstood if you are trimming for length or circumference fit....

It would seem to me that the majority of people that put the effort into becoming a Centurion wouldn't be opposed to putting a "handful" of nuts and bolts into their armour in order to be even more accurate. These screw heads are definitely visible on the outside of the armour and their installation doesn't necessarily have to affect an individual's preferred strapping method. At the very least, the chest return screws heads should be required as they are the most noticeable of the bunch. If we are unable to convince the powers that be that the CRL should be changed, I'd be in favour of an even higher standard or recognition. Maybe the Troopermaster "Award of Excellence," eh Paul? One could try to copy a very specific trooper as seen on camera--similar to MEPD's SWAT--where subtle nuances of weathering, messy trimming of armour and even presence of gaffer's tape are judged?

On a related note, did Luke (and maybe Han) employ a different strapping system for the chest to ab? Obviously Luke didn't have a return edge on the bottom of the chest so I assume they had to use some sort of inner harness. Any idea?

For what it's worth Charles, my screws (from Mr. No Stripes) have the same size head as the #4 screws on my helmets--5.5mm diameter.

I hear ya Mathias!

But couldn't it be said that the crotch and side rivets do the same thing? I mean they are part of the original strapping system and are required. Truth be told, we see the chest screws in the film a LOT more than we see the crotch rivet....

I'm glad at least a couple people agree, Paul and Mathias! I use the original strapping system with mine and think that the screws give it a certain Tantive IV ruggedness. Maybe next time the CRL is revisited, it can be suggested as an addition?

Why is it that Centurions need to have appropriate rivets etc, but don't require the screw heads used in the original strapping system? It seems strange because these screws--particularly those on the return edge of the chest--are, in my opinion, as noticeable as the cap and split rivets elsewhere on the armour. I get that many people don't want to actually use the original strapping system, but wouldn't it make sense to require that appropriate size screws be installed on the return edges of the torso (regardless of the actual strapping system employed)? After all, wasn't the Centurion level created to strive to achieve the "look" of the movies? Personally, I think the screws definitely add to the armour and--unlike gaffer's tape or other anomalies--appeared on all ANH stunt kits. Without them, it's like putting an ANH bucket together without visible screw heads...it doesn't look quite right. Some people might argue that they're striving for an idealized look. If that's the case, then why are the visible rivets and snaps required for certification? Anyways, I just thought I'd put this "random thought" out there...although I'm sure it's likely been asked and addressed before....

Thanks Walt! No need to send any lens material. I think I'll be good. I've been using the classic Humbrol paints. You just have to take your time with it and apply a few coats over several days. Smooth plastic isn't the easiest material to paint on by any stretch. I'm more of an acrylic on wood type of guy so this teaches me patience. I guess you could call it the zen of TK building. LOL

I ended up using epoxy as I didn't have any hot glue down in my studio. I think they turned out alright. I also just threw in a temporary lens for now. One suggestion I have, Walt, is including a lens piece that is a little longer to reach from screw to screw. Almost there! just have to paint the vent stripes, add padding, permanent lenses and s-trim:

LOL I haven't been able to touch armour the last few days. I did cut down the mic tips and attach the screen. I am just trying to decide the best way to attach them to the helmet. I'm thinking I might just E6000 them in. How did you do it?

It's so nice having all those comparison shots Rich! Often we only get to look at different armours on different people with different body types so it's nice to see it all on one person. Thanks!

As far as I can tell from the CRL, Nomex flight gloves are fine for EIB. It is only when applying for Centurion that they become an issue.

ANH and ESB are the same helmets as each other. The only difference is that ANH helmets are painted and have grey frowns. ESB helmets have stickers for the traps, vents and tube stripes and are painted with black frowns. You can use the same helmet for ANH stunt, ANH sandtrooper and ESB 'stunt'. The hero helmet has a different faceplate with only 3 teeth cut out (instead of 4). It also only has 3 ear bumps instead of 4, 2 screws instead of 3, and uses bubble lenses instead of flat. As far as I know, TM is the only one that makes these. Some people modify other stunt helmets into hero by flattening tooth bumps and ordering appropriate lenses and ears/com covers. As such, yes, hero helmets will generally cost more, even if you're modifying a stunt. I don't know much about ROTJ lids, but sometimes they show up for a good price in the For Sale section....

You're a perfect size for any armour made from the originals since the actors/stuntmen who played stormtroopers were right in the same ballpark size-wise. As the above posters have mentioned, the best you can get for ANH or ESB would be RS Propmasters or Troopermaster [TM]. The RS armour is derived from a screen-used suit and helmet from ANH. TM is "fan sculpted" armour that has been painstakingly crafted and revised over a number of years. It is arguably the most beautiful armour around. If you want a "Hero" helmet like Luke or Han wore, TM can set you up with that, too. If you want ROTJ, get Cast from Original (CFO) armour. There are a whole slew of differences between ANH and ROTJ derived armours so it is best to just delve into their respective threads and immerse yourself for a while. It is definitely overwhelming at first.... Now if money is the biggest deciding factor, there are other more "budget-conscious" options out there for ANH armour, in particular. Affordable Trooper Armor (ATA) immediately comes to mind, but be forewarned there is a lengthy wait list. There are many more armorers here so take you time to decide before ordering. Here is a quick rundown: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/. I often like to look through the EIB and Centurion application threads to get a lowdown on how armour turns out on different people.

They both look fine to me. There was a good deal of variation in ANH helmets since the tube stripes were originally painted on (unlike the other two films). I say pick one set and go for it.

For the life of me I couldn't find any in my region of Canada. Desperate, I roamed the aisles of WalMart. In the hardware section, I found an aluminum yard stick for about $5. It is about 1 1/8" wide, which I understand is the original width of TD clips. I was able to quickly sand off the numbers and markings while at the same time giving a brushed aluminum look. Anyways, it's a pretty good option if you can't find raw flat aluminum....

Comparison of my son's 2 buckets. I think the WTF (Walt's Trooper Factory) is a "touch" better. LOL

That's the trick, eh? Trying to squeeze in an hour here and an hour there to put these things together.

Quick update on the painting progress:

I just put on another coat of grey last night. Man, Humbrol takes forever to dry.... I just have to put on the vent stripes and rank bars now. Hopefully tonight (crosses fingers).

I love the inside! The cog patch looks great. Very nice overall--a bucket to be proud of. Awesome work TJ.

On a side note, this is my other project tonight: an Imperial Commando.

Doing a little painting tonight.... First coat done.