DizzyStormtrooper

neck wallet, aka id holder from walmart, under my chest piece. i keep my phone in it for troop pictures, keys to the speeder, and money if i intend to buy something at comic con. pic for general reference, but trooperbay sells some iirc..

i dont have a millimeter ruler, but the outer diameter of the tip is the same size as a penny, the length is 1 inch, or the same size as a quarter

150 grit if by hand, but i use a dremel with a sanding drum bit and lightly get the rough parts and make everything even

max im not sure, the crl only banned fx and am unmodified, it wasn't made clear if cutting it to screen accurate size would be acceptable. zero i did the shadow and commander cods differently, but i prefer the way i did the commander. on the shadow i moved the cod up and hinged it to the ab for bathroom breaks, whereas the commander held up better when bolted directly to the belt. when cutting both from the ab however i used the curved lines. the shadow just had the straight cut near the nuthugger for the snap hinge system.

looks big on you, like mine did, im still surprised the commander fit you so well. heres how much i trimmed off it and my shadow when i built them to fit [our] frame

the black ATA isnt as deep black like the AM is pictured in this thread. AM used a custom acrylic capped black abs which is why they look so amazing. as much as i like ATA, the black abs used is a straight up gloss black and looks almost dark gray in the sunlight and will need to be painted to match the deep black AM armor. heres my AM with a painted CAPW helmet, you can see they match almost perfect and heres the black ATA helmet

any screen-derived helmet will be plenty spacious. plenty of room for padding (mandatory so it fits your dome right), fans, mic, and batteries with room to spare. if you attend an event some garrisons like mine have demo helmets we let people try on at the table. to get an idea of size, if you open your jaw, your chin will touch the bottom of the vocoder, its also how i keep it moving with me if i have to look down. theres almost an inch of space between the sides and your ears, and maybe 3/4 inch from the top of the head to the top of the helmet. the bulk of the extra room lies in the tubes and aerator sections.

youll have to hit up your garrison for that. be confident, its just plastic!

your gut'll stick out a little noticably but its not the end of the world, me at 200 i use the industrial velcro and make large shims, stick the velcro wide, suck in the gut and use the torso to hold everything up via the velcro. just stand up straight and put your pelvis inward, itll straighten your stance and make things look better too

hes one of our helmet makers in the spec ops detachment from Poland. high quality builds. there's info around.

my suggestion is put elastic near the middle of the inside of the shins, measure and test before gluing it in, do it right and theyll pull shins down over the boots, prevent twisting, and be more comfortable to walk in.

for question 3 just use a sanding drum bit and finish off as needed. the "score, bend, snap" is meant for large chunks that need to be lopped off. you're going to want edges sanded smooth as to not catch and rip holes in the undersuit

i think we should all just start liking eachothers posts for the heck of it, you know, then everyone gets a little boost. brand new feature and we're boosting the system already lol

i used velcro on the shin backs and forearms the industrial stuff at walmart is pretty strong as long as the surface is clean and glossy, everything else was e6'd or snaps. for the forearms i made the opening just big enough i could squeeze my hand through, then glued foam near the wrist so it doesnt twist around

put the amp in the chest, but insulate the mic in the helmet to avoid the screeeeeeeeee feedback. tiny speakers arent powerful enough

you might ask https://www.facebook.com/LewisWhiteFX ive seen an ackbar in his pics but "cheap" is another story

i specialize in "shrinking" suits. the fx and AM that are meant for taller folks I've chopped down to fit me, i'm the same height and weight as you. as long as you know where to cut you won't have problems with fitment. though out of the box ATA or AP is the best fitting. ditch the fx bucket too. heres where i cut the AM, which are the same cuts i made on the fx [/url] fx the trick is to trim enough that your comfortable while not showing too much black. as far as tightness goes, the general consensus is to make cover strips movie size, but if you're bulkier its fine if you need to make them wider to make the halves fit right. ive seen troopers with 2 inch wide coverstrips, we go for accuracy sure, but not everyone is a 1970's skinny british guy. contact your garrison armorer, theres bound to be troopers near you that can help!

i made just the vid awhile back. also my strapping might help you out keeping the shins over the boots https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Njarfbn9u8

heres the technique i use when i make commanders. also works for clones. ive been putting off making a tutorial for this but... mix drops of black acrylic paint with a few tablespoons of water. you want it to be as viscous as milk. paint an area then immediately use a dry paper towel and lightly dab it off. repeat several times and spread out to more areas to achieve the desired carbon-scoring effect. out of the same paint mixture, use a beat-up brush and quick strokes to simulate scratches. for chips, tap the damp bristles, flicking a lightly dipped brush works too. you want the weathering to be completely random. remember your helmet has been dropped and scuffed from numerous battles and daily use. you may consider using a tiny amount of white chips/scratches in obvious areas like outside the ears, around the traps and aerator ducts if you prefer. for red, a Magmatrooper, use the above technique at least 3 times so it looks like youve been charred by the fires of mustafar of something. be creative but dont overdo it. the dried acrylic will survive a few troops but if you mess up, it wipes off super easy using a paper towel damp with rubbing alcohol.

id like to see someone build a full size AT-AT head

yes.

its "that kid from 'Mask'" of stormtroopers

heat it up with a heat gun or hair dryer and wrap around a coffee can/2 liter bottle

i used the same gray i used for the frown, testors 1138

i doubt the rustoleum professional we use comes in pink, but enamel is what youd want. id suggest get your white armor 501st approved to open up your options and contacts for getting more costumes, then paint it. youll want to use a random orbital sander with between 600 to 800, wash the dust off, then lay a light coat of primer, followed by 2 coats of the pink, and a clear if youd like. be warned through a few troops youll have paint rubbing off between the thighs near the crotch, tops of the boots, and the biceps under the shoulder bells. possibly the ab plate from the chest rubbing as well. alternatively you could use vinyl wrap like for ads on cars and decals and such. heat it with a heat gun and press it onto the armor. itll be less work and more durable than paint and can also be removed later.