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DizzyStormtrooper

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Everything posted by DizzyStormtrooper

  1. Basically I cut the front first, glue cover strips, then wrap around leg til it fits, tape there, and cut down the middle. You'll want to leave a half inch more on the shins though, I don't overlap my shin backs.
  2. The small text under my post. If you're on mobile scroll down and click full site and you'll see them
  3. If your doing the butt join method I show how to do it in my build
  4. I have an ab/cod, chest, and butt plates in fiberglass you can vacform as much as you like. They're pepakura and inaccurate but nothing a little bondo can't fix.
  5. I always try to persuade people to become TX lol. I converted 3 already
  6. I choose black because regular white stormtroopers are everywhere, to me, bland! Grunts! when they take those group pictures at events its almost impossible to find yourself. we spec ops are gaining popularity. Sure white troopers are more recognizable to the general public but people are amazed at how shiny the black is. It terms of maker I choose AM because I like the idealized "real life stormtrooper" symmetric look. I'm not a fan of the bumpy, wonky, one shot killed screen suits
  7. what about the forward part of the stock? i intentionally didnt drill the bottom row of holes so i could epoxy along the length to hold it on
  8. "a little" is an understatement lol theres a bunch or bubbles on the end of the clip. heres the mag parts together and glued on. easiest model kit ive ever built. and the rest of the sterling parts minus the front sight ill have to fashion up a scope rail, counter bracket, return spring, cut this rake up for t-track, and add a bunch of milliput. i think ill use some kind of small tube to mount the hinge of the stock
  9. a little update, i dont think he sells armor anymore cuz of us lol. either he made a new ebay account or just stopped selling armor.. btw, is styrene that thin stuff they make those extremely cheap 70's style masks for kids from?
  10. ive broken this out of the closet finally! the parts were Lou's "b grade special" with miscasts and bubbles ahoy so i naturally had to pick it up being the cheapas- i mean "financially responsible" individual i am. i usually dont start build threads until im far enough in that im almost finished, so anyway... thanks to Vern for pointing me in the direction of templates and measurements i needed, that guys the guru of guns. ill skip to the major points. got the pipe cut and drilled to spec, cleaned up all the burrs inside then painted it black INSIDE before putting the bolt in so you wont see any white after its complete. put the bolt it slightly, then cocking lever, then fully insert the bolt so the lever is held in by the body. not sure if i was off when i drilled out the ejector port, but you can see some more detail and some numbers on the bolt, but i think that makes it look cooler, more real. glueing the... grip thing. idk what the parts are called but i love this project cuz its like having a real sterling. i wont screw it to the body like Nicky did but id like to for reassurance, but i want to see just how strong this epoxy is. i got it from walmart in the autobody repair section. it held when my motorcycle got hit! for the rest of the parts, i had A LOT of dremeling, sanding, exactoknifeing, and modding to get the mold pouring stems and excess resin off. many hours and a cloudy apartment later... (and i still have milliput to get and fill in missing areas) i got 2 power cylinder casts, not sure if that was intentional, but i cut off the back of one and put the fronts of the 2nd on it like this. idk if its accurate but it looks better. next comes mag and sight assembly
  11. yeah idk whats up with that either. i cant even log into my own garrison forum lol. spec ops fo life!
  12. While an ATA would fit better out of the box, the most common black kits are AM but are meant for bigger people. check out my build thread on making armor fit smaller types on the spec ops site. http://forum.501stspecopsdet.net/index.php?/topic/2443-dizzys-am-mods-and-build/ -Dizzy
  13. Basically sizes are as follows: X-Large: GT/FX, AM, NE, RtMod Large: MR, eFX Medium: CAP, CAP-W, AP, TE, TE2, ATA, AA, RS
  14. I have the same problem. just add foam but tilt the helmet down so you can still see!
  15. id cut 1/8th inch off the top of the bicep cover strips, and a 1/4 inch of the top and bottom forearm coverstrips
  16. you dont need 4 yards of black. a minimal set up like TM's is all you need:
  17. why does ian look incredibly uncomfortable in the chair? also nice boots on the rubies display lol
  18. i did some experiments today. if i put it in the back plate its not loud enough even with volume up to max, and squeels like the dickens if the speaker is too close to anything. ironically the mic also screams if its too close to, or in, my mouth lol. looks like ill have to get one of those newer models in a higher wattage. i have another mic thats unidirectional but its battery powered, the bats dead so i cant test it yet, would any sound engineer troopers know if a powered mic vs the aker powered mic affects anything?
  19. great idea with the holes and dowel in the stock!
  20. you dont have troopergear armor, you have NE armor. look through peoples NE build threads. theres some gap in the dome which is easily fixed with the right clamp and glue technique demonstrated in those threads
  21. Cool I'll do some experimenting, I thought there'd be an issue since they still run on the batteries
  22. Couldn't have done it without your mesh gaz thanks again!
  23. you will need: -mic tips -metal screen material -scissors -superglue (optional) -highlighter or dry erase marker 1. Cut mesh into circle a little bigger than the size of a nickel (this is so it stretches and doesnt fold) 2. Sandwich the mesh between mic tip and upside-down highlighter/marker cap like this 3. Push down slowly and evenly you can see what i did here 4. trim the excess. this is so it goes in evenly and you dont end up mashing it down 5. pull now-bent screen out and flip it over. you can put a bit of glue around the inside, id recommend so it wont fall out. when installing i like to use an exacto knife to evenly push in the screen from the sides do the same with the other one and there you go!
  24. heres what i want to do. this stuff isnt velcro, its like futuristic velcro. little mushroom shaped things connect like velcro, it even sticks to itsself! its called 3M dual lock and its expensive but i got a roll for free. assembled this way would be much stronger than overlap, and it only sticks out 3-4mm with the cover strip
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