gmrhodes13

Congratulations trooper and welcome to Expert Infantry and the EI Honor Gallery

Unfortunately you do have some print lines on both your blasters, joins and segmented areas, info L2 EIB: 3-D printed blasters can not contain visible print lines, and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance. Up to you if you use an E-11 or DLT-19 All return edge should be removed even in corners from the front of the forearm DO's @Deployment Officer Team should be along soon to give advice

Hello and welcome, a helpful thread full of info to help you on your way Look forward to seeing a build thread from you soon

Yes a CRL model is needed as well as all the separate piece photos, wording will get another revue before publishing

Your outlines appear ok. Also with this paint only do thin coats, can take time to dry in between but will give you a better finish

You may want to try to fill the trap area Also your rear lines appear to be on an angle, may need to straighten those

Nice score

Dodgy 25 year old Bali tribal tattoo getting a coverup, incorporating old and new

Looking good so far

Congratulations reaching 25, you can request a trooping award. Info here Request and add your link to your troop log here

You could send a request to our DL Chris @themaninthesuitcase to manually update him but it's normally updated before each election cycle. Members must sign into to the forums at least once every year to remain "active"

If you are interested in a read there are a few threads on sizing and larger cover strips

Normally if required we add bigger cover strips on the rear as the public don't see our backs that much, as long as they aren't HUGE, if they are too big it's better splitting the sizing over front and back. I would fill the ridge area rather than using 15 mm on the rear if your ridges are wider. Align the bottoms of pieces as you can trim the tops to suit.

Correct 15mm front and back, same on biceps. Also ridge should be same front and back, unless you need to leave more material for larger sizing, you would also use a larger cover strip on the rear if sized bigger. I normally trim standard size on front pieces and size the back to what is needed, most would use standard 15mm sizing front and back. Thighs 20mm front and back (unless you need bigger sizing) Shins 20mm front and 25mm back to allow for velcro or hook elastic.

Looks like you are needing a few other photos, have a read of this checklist Also

You could post it in our sales area (you need to have at least 5 forum posts) Also on MEPD home of everything Sandtrooper https://forum.mepd.net/ Ebay would probably be the best bet. As to price RS Props had one up for sale on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10151970503909333.1073741836.265114729332&type=3&paipv=0&eav=AfYE3zrnTC6bSvBdSPmXCNmYkghpRqO8Yga_ergaSWCXT84gmK0YsvsffkiMq-iIWa0&_rdr

Info in this thread

Congratulations and welcome to the ranks trooper You can request TK access here which will allow access to runs of detachment only merchandise

Really would depend on how the armor was made, raised cod area centered or offset, most makes of armor appear to have the raised area of the cod offset to the abdomen (like screen references), but some are centered like my ATA Screen used raised cod ridge offset Some align the belt to the center of the the abdomen, some align the belt to the center of the raised cod ridge (under ab plate ridges) the later being more screen accurate EIB examples of different makes of armor Offset raised cod area RS Anovos MTK TM Centered raised area cod AM ATA AP WTF RWA Most also having their belt centered to the large ab plate. If your armor has the offset raised cod area then you could definitely make it absolute screen accurate, but if you have the centered raised cod area you are stuck, you can't bring it over as it would interfere with your thigh gap.

Item sold on Fri, 4 Oct at 9:20 PM. £4,101.00 32 bids

If you are having issues adding photos many use a free image host "Imgur" upload photos there then copy and past the direct links into your forum post, a how to here

You still have TK access

WOW

No they are not approvable as the reference is only a concept not an official on screen source

Some information and references to compare with screen used helmets http://www.starwarshelmets.com/original-ANH-Stunt-Stormtrooper-armor-helmets.htm Ear bumps and mouth should be gloss grey, note no paint on gums Also refences in our gallery Some details from the CRL, some higher level requirements you may wish to address: Helmet Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. A total of 8 cut outs in the teeth area of the frown are present. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Ideally, the tube stripes are positioned approximately a pencil width from the side of the cheek. Fall of tube stripe tops ideally lean toward the front. Correct Aerators/Hovi-MIX tips are present. Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh, with the rim of the mic and the inside white or painted white. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Ear bars shall have only one bump painted in black (rank stripes). Ideally, placement of ears (and screws) should closely follow the rear angle of the trap above them Rank stripe Fall tube stripes, pencil width The "ideal" ear placement is as seen below, where the screws line up with the rear angle of the trap right above it. Because some armorers design their helmets differently or send them pre-assembled this is not always possible to achieve, but it is suggested that you try to get as close as you can. Note: Top ear screws should ideally be located directly below the rear of the trap. Brow trim open at rear Hope the information is useful for you