gmrhodes13

I've tagged him in the post so he may get a notification and check this thread. Also @Tray is the CO (commanding officer) of: First State Garrison Forum: http://firststategarrison.com/ His GCO contact email: Allabouttray@gmail.com

There is no actual size listed, I went to the local hardware and eyeballed against screen reference, was 13 years ago so I can't recall the size sorry.

Very nice. You could always add some wires to the T-track The stock where bakelite in color (black is acceptable by most GML's)

You can try Tray via his forum name and send a private message @Tray I believe Walt does most of his communication via Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/612005498911674/user/1145629985/ Most questins in the WTF build group are answered pretty quickly https://www.facebook.com/groups/612005498911674

I find it a bit too light, when I tried it would smudge more than remove the paint, but it depends on the paint and how long it's been applied, could be worth a try though

If any emails or contact info doesn't work we need to be notified, all contact info is correct when they are added to the sellers list. They are "vetted sellers" as we know they supply (and at a reasonable time) quality costumes and people have had no issues with them. What you buy is entirely up to you BUT there is no guarantee you will recieve what you order or could even become legion approved with a lesser quality product, entirely up to your GML (garrison membership liaison). Unfortunately price is a part of this hobby especially for costumes which are close if not better than screen accurate.

Take a look in the Enoch Resources section, there are images there you can compare Blaster Imperial Arms - Facebook: Link Here, Website Link Here, Instagram Link Here NOTE: Production Time - As each blaster is custom-made to order, please allow for an extended production time, which may vary depending on the specific item. Big Fred's Customs - Facebook: Link Here Patreon Link Here Etsy Link Here

Nice work looks like a clean build just a couple of fixes: Try to make sure your thighs are at the same height and rotate to the front Also gaps between shoulder bells and chest, right arm has a little more gap. Your drop boxes do not align with the ends of your plastic belt You may want to try tighter (or double over) strapping on kidney to abdomen (especially for higher levels, which I would recommend applying for ) OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor is no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide. Any shims used to achieve this effect are of a similar material and color as the abdomen and kidney armor. Shims fit flush and seams are allowed. A split (bifurcated) or single cap rivet is present on the lower tab (cod area) of the abdomen armor. Rivet does not need to be functional. Rivet on must be brass or silver in color, approximately 5/16" (8mm) in diameter and is not painted. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Ideally there no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor. Abdominal and Kidney Plate align horizontally at top. Also make sure the tops of the kidney and abdomen meet at the top Level 3, Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box. You could also bring the belt up but just a smidge (you could also leave it as is ) The top of the ABS belt shall sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical ab button panels. A slight overlap is suggested, but not required. Also with the belt (L3 Centurion): Belt Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt). The soft belt proper is made of canvas, or material with a canvas covering. Size must be 2.75” (70 mm) to 3.25”(83 mm) wide and not wider than the plastic portion of the belt. The color is be white to off-white. The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the front plastic belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There shall be three square buttons, one centered in the middle and one on each end of the plastic ammo belt.. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Drop boxes must have full inner drop boxes to close the back. Flat covers are not allowed. Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box. The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle that that meets the outer edge of the cloth belt. The top of the ABS ammo belt should sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical abdomen button panels. Canvas belt can not contain patches of any sort. Canvas belt must be firm / sturdy in appearance. No creasing or sagging  Neck seal coming out at the back Shoulder straps could come down a little at the back Can't tell if you have the elastic over the rear shoulder straps Detonator is sitting a little too high, also rotate the O details a little more to the back Right rear shin, appears to be too overlapped, or the cover strip is not central You may also want to take a little off the tops of your rear thighs as they will hit when walking (one is hitting just standing) Also noticed your thigh cover strip is not central on the back rear right leg, you may want to try to adjust the thigh for photos (or remove coverstrip and glue on an angle, to match the left) The top of the TD should should sit level (or slightly) higher than the top of the canvas belt. Level 3, they shall free float in the back, be glued in the front and need to be held down in the back via a white elastic band to the white fabric/elastic chest/back connection. Ideally this strap should be 1/4 inch (5 mm) wide, and connect over the tab at the top of the back armor. The bridge should also lay flush against the back. You have a lot of shoulder strap showing on the back of the back plate, I'm wondering if you have enough on the front of the chest. On the front the shoulder strap has 1 large and 4 - 4 1/2 small tabs (generally not all armor will although this) Can't quite make out all of your helmet details as the photos are a little low on resolution, but vocoder sides should match each other. Also make sure the fronts of your tube stripes fall from the top forward Ideally at Level 2 tube stripes are approximately 1 cm (5/16ths) away from the cheek, and should also lean toward the front. The thickness may vary, but the number of stripes must be between 9 and 16. These may be hand painted or decals for all levels, but should not extend under the ear. That may seem like a lot but most is for higher levels (which I hope you apply for) and for basic it's entirely up to your GML and their opinion, good luck, not that I think you will need it

Definitely sand, I like to wet sand with wet and dry sandpaper, it makes the sandaper last longer and doesn't clog as quickly, a couple of drops of dish washing detergent in the water can also help the paper glide.

I've had all sorts of problems with Rust-Oleum paints, mainly not coming out consistent and occasionally spraying like a sand, that's with shaking the can for 10 minutes prior to using as well as between passes of paint, I always thought it may be out of date paint as it's not widely used down under. It really doesn't like having multiple coats unless it is completely dry, I would say leave for at least a day if not longer. I hear Krylon paints are a little better, we don't have those here so I can't offer advice on that. Many years ago I swapped to automotive acrylic spray paint, dries quicker, can buff and polish if needed, but like any paint it does take some getting used too. A couple of threads on Rust-Oleum and Krylon paints (there are so many more)

Nice work so far. The two things I hate about printing, sanding and sizing

You can trim them like that if you wish, BUT you can also leave them how they are, it's entirely up to you, many pieces of armor had the ends all differently cut/angled/straight. Check this out, albeit on the arms, one cover strip stops short and the other is cut angle, Just make sure you nip off the corners, angled or rounded, again up to you

Congratulations and welcome to the Centurion ranks trooper

In the past you had to do away with the extra teeth "cut out" impressions. Centurion Hero approvals for reference https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/search/?q=hero&quick=1&type=forums_topic&nodes=72 With some careful tweaks I converted a Stunt to Hero and L2 & L3 approved. Note ATA did offer both Stunt and Hero ears which made life a lot easier, it's only the teeth I had to modify. Some great references http://www.starwarshelmets.com/original-ANH-hero-Stormtrooper-armor-helmets.htm If you are looking for a really nice Hero helmet I'd contact TM https://www.facebook.com/TMProps